From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Jan 4 01:56:00 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Mark Goldey via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 19:56:00 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Playback Azimuth Changes On Its Own Message-ID: <56bddeab-e543-5943-21e5-5dd4670581cd@goldey.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Jan 4 10:51:56 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (martin ferreira via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 09:51:56 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Playback Azimuth Changes On Its Own In-Reply-To: <56bddeab-e543-5943-21e5-5dd4670581cd@goldey.net> References: <56bddeab-e543-5943-21e5-5dd4670581cd@goldey.net> Message-ID: Hi What I have experienced was simply that the meter would jump when the adjustment knob was used but not with remote. This was solved by applying lubricant. It was a challenge to reach the knob from below but I was able to do it by removing the bottom cover. I don't remember if I had to remove the faceplate but I think not. I hope this helps a bit Martin Ferreira ________________________________ From: Naktalk on behalf of Mark Goldey via Naktalk Sent: Tuesday, January 4, 2022 12:56 AM To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Playback Azimuth Changes On Its Own Hi, all. I'm having a problem with my CR-7A playback adjust, and would be grateful for any insights. The azimuth adjustment mechanism works, and I can see the playback head move with the door open and no cassette in place. But, the motor/mechanism is making more noise than it should, as if something is loose or not seated properly. (It's more rattle-y than grind-y.) The azimuth adjustment meter tends to jump around, too. What I mean is, if I slowly adjust the knob the meter will jump forward (or back) 2 or 3 bars, and then revert to where it was, and do this a few times before the next bar in the series eventually lights (or goes out) as the knob is twisted. While this is happening, the mechanism sounds like it's moving back and forth, rather than moving slowly in one direction. The best analogy I can give is over-correction in a video game, like, when a kid tries to play Pole Position for the first time and keeps careening from one side of the road to the other. Also, during playback, the mechanism will at times adjust itself (and the front panel readout) without my intervention. This isn't constant, but it can happen at any time. Has anyone experienced this sort of thing? Any thoughts about what's causing it? Thanks! --mhg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Jan 4 11:09:19 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (martin ferreira via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 10:09:19 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Playback Azimuth Changes On Its Own In-Reply-To: References: <56bddeab-e543-5943-21e5-5dd4670581cd@goldey.net> Message-ID: To be more specific I applied a Philips lubricant static removing spray inside the pot housing through a visible opening. Martin Ferreira ________________________________ From: Naktalk on behalf of martin ferreira via Naktalk Sent: Tuesday, January 4, 2022 9:51 AM To: mgoldey at goldey.net ; Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Subject: Re: [naktalk] CR-7A Playback Azimuth Changes On Its Own Hi What I have experienced was simply that the meter would jump when the adjustment knob was used but not with remote. This was solved by applying lubricant. It was a challenge to reach the knob from below but I was able to do it by removing the bottom cover. I don't remember if I had to remove the faceplate but I think not. I hope this helps a bit Martin Ferreira ________________________________ From: Naktalk on behalf of Mark Goldey via Naktalk Sent: Tuesday, January 4, 2022 12:56 AM To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Playback Azimuth Changes On Its Own Hi, all. I'm having a problem with my CR-7A playback adjust, and would be grateful for any insights. The azimuth adjustment mechanism works, and I can see the playback head move with the door open and no cassette in place. But, the motor/mechanism is making more noise than it should, as if something is loose or not seated properly. (It's more rattle-y than grind-y.) The azimuth adjustment meter tends to jump around, too. What I mean is, if I slowly adjust the knob the meter will jump forward (or back) 2 or 3 bars, and then revert to where it was, and do this a few times before the next bar in the series eventually lights (or goes out) as the knob is twisted. While this is happening, the mechanism sounds like it's moving back and forth, rather than moving slowly in one direction. The best analogy I can give is over-correction in a video game, like, when a kid tries to play Pole Position for the first time and keeps careening from one side of the road to the other. Also, during playback, the mechanism will at times adjust itself (and the front panel readout) without my intervention. This isn't constant, but it can happen at any time. Has anyone experienced this sort of thing? Any thoughts about what's causing it? Thanks! --mhg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Jan 4 18:18:39 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Willy Hermann via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 09:18:39 -0800 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Playback Azimuth Changes On Its Own In-Reply-To: <56bddeab-e543-5943-21e5-5dd4670581cd@goldey.net> References: <56bddeab-e543-5943-21e5-5dd4670581cd@goldey.net> Message-ID: That's caused by a dirty azimuth pot. Centered on the face plate electronics. Kind of a pain to get to with contact cleaner but that will solve your problem. Just run it back and forth several times quickly and the problem will go away temporarily. Willy Virus-free. www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Wed Jan 5 02:31:47 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Mark Exstedt via Naktalk) Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2022 01:31:47 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Playback Azimuth Changes On Its Own In-Reply-To: References: <56bddeab-e543-5943-21e5-5dd4670581cd@goldey.net> Message-ID: I just did Willy's solution to a grinding sound capstan motor four weeks ago. Yes it worked ! ________________________________ From: Naktalk on behalf of Willy Hermann via Naktalk Sent: Tuesday, January 4, 2022 10:18 AM To: mgoldey at goldey.net ; Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Subject: Re: [naktalk] CR-7A Playback Azimuth Changes On Its Own That's caused by a dirty azimuth pot. Centered on the face plate electronics. Kind of a pain to get to with contact cleaner but that will solve your problem. Just run it back and forth several times quickly and the problem will go away temporarily. Willy [https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-green-avg-v1.png] Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Thu Jan 6 03:31:10 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Mark Goldey via Naktalk) Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2022 21:31:10 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Playback Azimuth Changes On Its Own In-Reply-To: References: <56bddeab-e543-5943-21e5-5dd4670581cd@goldey.net> Message-ID: <9a297234-cc7b-3a1e-c39a-0d5f3d9ad496@goldey.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Jan 8 18:24:10 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Phineas Paine via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2022 12:24:10 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] 480 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Well, we need more info to narrow the focus. 1. Is the pop heard through amp/speakers, or the 480's headphone jack, or both? 2. Do you have another amp you can play the 480 through to see if the pop moves with the 480, or stays behind with the amp? Switch components to verify. 3. If the pop is positively isolated to the 480, and based on the answer to 1. above, we would need to step through the circuitry to find the offending component, if it's a dead or shorted semiconductor. But first I'd try cleaning (deoxit) the usual suspects... controls and switches. The record/play switch might be the issue, as a dirty one can introduce all kinds of noise. Let us know Phineas On Mon, Dec 20, 2021, 8:55 AM Peter Tanner via Naktalk, < naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > Hi everybody, > > My otherwise great working 480 developed a problem which has been getting > worse lately. When I press play there is a large pop and the needles on the > meters swing widely. Then it plays normally. This happens about 8 over 10 > times. If I put the deck in pause first, then play there is no pop. I > wonder if anyone has any idea what it can be caused by. Thanks > > Peter > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Jan 8 23:28:56 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Peter Tanner via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2022 22:28:56 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] 480 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks for the message. I didn't think I was going to get a reply since I posted this 3 weeks ago. The pop is heard thru the speakers and headphones. Tested on another amp and it's the same. As I've mentioned if pause is pressed first then play there is no pop. Yes, the record/play switch is not spectacular. I've cleaned it several times and I should probably change it but as I don't use this deck for recording, I didn't think there was any need for it. I don't have a new switch anyway and play was just fine without any pops until about two months ago. Also, right after the deck is turned on there is no pop the first time it's put into play. After that it does every time the play button is depressed. Peter ________________________________ From: Phineas Paine Sent: Saturday, January 8, 2022 9:24 AM To: Peter Tanner ; Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Subject: Re: [naktalk] 480 Well, we need more info to narrow the focus. 1. Is the pop heard through amp/speakers, or the 480's headphone jack, or both? 2. Do you have another amp you can play the 480 through to see if the pop moves with the 480, or stays behind with the amp? Switch components to verify. 3. If the pop is positively isolated to the 480, and based on the answer to 1. above, we would need to step through the circuitry to find the offending component, if it's a dead or shorted semiconductor. But first I'd try cleaning (deoxit) the usual suspects... controls and switches. The record/play switch might be the issue, as a dirty one can introduce all kinds of noise. Let us know Phineas On Mon, Dec 20, 2021, 8:55 AM Peter Tanner via Naktalk, > wrote: Hi everybody, My otherwise great working 480 developed a problem which has been getting worse lately. When I press play there is a large pop and the needles on the meters swing widely. Then it plays normally. This happens about 8 over 10 times. If I put the deck in pause first, then play there is no pop. I wonder if anyone has any idea what it can be caused by. Thanks Peter ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Jan 9 00:14:30 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Peter Tanner via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2022 23:14:30 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] 480 In-Reply-To: <744288584.2409648.1641682862399@mail.yahoo.com> References: <744288584.2409648.1641682862399@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes, thanks, that's what I've thought but to find out which one or ones is a tall order. The orange caps in this deck were changed a year or so ago. Otherwise it's all original. Peter ________________________________ From: Dr Doug Sent: Saturday, January 8, 2022 3:01 PM To: Phineas Paine ; Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks ; Peter Tanner Subject: Re: [naktalk] 480 Just a guess but I would bet it's a capacitor. I'm not a Nak expert, but most of the time pops are related to a capacitor failing and it gets worse over time. I'd check the caps around the switches that get activated, good luck. Maybe Mr. W. Herman has an idea? I know he's very busy with Nak repairs. Doug On Saturday, January 8, 2022, 02:29:05 PM PST, Peter Tanner via Naktalk wrote: Thanks for the message. I didn't think I was going to get a reply since I posted this 3 weeks ago. The pop is heard thru the speakers and headphones. Tested on another amp and it's the same. As I've mentioned if pause is pressed first then play there is no pop. Yes, the record/play switch is not spectacular. I've cleaned it several times and I should probably change it but as I don't use this deck for recording, I didn't think there was any need for it. I don't have a new switch anyway and play was just fine without any pops until about two months ago. Also, right after the deck is turned on there is no pop the first time it's put into play. After that it does every time the play button is depressed. Peter ________________________________ From: Phineas Paine Sent: Saturday, January 8, 2022 9:24 AM To: Peter Tanner ; Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Subject: Re: [naktalk] 480 Well, we need more info to narrow the focus. 1. Is the pop heard through amp/speakers, or the 480's headphone jack, or both? 2. Do you have another amp you can play the 480 through to see if the pop moves with the 480, or stays behind with the amp? Switch components to verify. 3. If the pop is positively isolated to the 480, and based on the answer to 1. above, we would need to step through the circuitry to find the offending component, if it's a dead or shorted semiconductor. But first I'd try cleaning (deoxit) the usual suspects... controls and switches. The record/play switch might be the issue, as a dirty one can introduce all kinds of noise. Let us know Phineas On Mon, Dec 20, 2021, 8:55 AM Peter Tanner via Naktalk, > wrote: Hi everybody, My otherwise great working 480 developed a problem which has been getting worse lately. When I press play there is a large pop and the needles on the meters swing widely. Then it plays normally. This happens about 8 over 10 times. If I put the deck in pause first, then play there is no pop. I wonder if anyone has any idea what it can be caused by. Thanks Peter ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Jan 9 00:01:02 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Dr Doug via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2022 23:01:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] 480 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <744288584.2409648.1641682862399@mail.yahoo.com> Just a guess but I would bet it's a capacitor. I'm not a Nak expert, but most of the time pops are related to a capacitor failing and it gets worse over time. I'd check the caps around the switches that get activated, good luck. Maybe Mr. W. Herman has an idea? I know he's very busy with Nak repairs. Doug On Saturday, January 8, 2022, 02:29:05 PM PST, Peter Tanner via Naktalk wrote: #yiv8622877407 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}Thanks for the message. I didn't think I was going to get a reply since I posted this 3 weeks ago. The pop is heard thru the speakers and headphones. Tested on another amp and it's the same. As I've mentioned if pause is pressed first then play there is no pop. Yes, the record/play switch is not spectacular. I've cleaned it several times and I should probably change it but as I don't use this deck for recording, I didn't think there was any need for it. I don't have a new switch anyway and play was just fine without any pops until about two months ago. Also, right after the deck is turned on there is no pop the first time it's put into play. After that it does every time the play button is depressed. Peter From: Phineas Paine Sent: Saturday, January 8, 2022 9:24 AM To: Peter Tanner ; Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Subject: Re: [naktalk] 480 Well, we need more info to narrow the focus. 1. Is the pop heard through amp/speakers, or the 480's headphone jack, or both?2. Do you have another amp you can play the 480 through to see if the pop moves with the 480, or stays behind with the amp? Switch components to verify.3. If the pop is positively isolated to the 480, and based on the answer to 1. above, we would need to step through the circuitry to find the offending component, if it's a dead or shorted semiconductor. But first I'd try cleaning (deoxit) the usual suspects... controls and switches.  The record/play switch might be the issue, as a dirty one can introduce all kinds of noise. Let us knowPhineas On Mon, Dec 20, 2021, 8:55 AM Peter Tanner via Naktalk, wrote: Hi everybody, My otherwise great working 480 developed a problem which has been getting worse lately. When I press play there is a large pop and the needles on the meters swing widely. Then it plays normally. This happens about 8 over 10 times. If I put the deck in pause first, then play there is no pop. I wonder if anyone has any idea what it can be caused by. Thanks Peter ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Jan 11 18:19:15 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (kannan srinivasaraghavan via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2022 17:19:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] 480 In-Reply-To: <744288584.2409648.1641682862399@mail.yahoo.com> References: <744288584.2409648.1641682862399@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1207423318.3129281.1641921555049@mail.yahoo.com> Very good chance that it is related to Orange Cap issue - read the Wiki article in Naktalk ( see the bottom of the mails show the link)replace the Orange Capacitor in Dolby Circuit area ( possibly) or other play back circuit pathsIt should resolve the issue Also check Mute circuit if Orange Cap replacement does not resolve thiskannan Thanks for the message. I didn't think I was going to get a reply since I posted this 3 weeks ago. The pop is heard thru the speakers and headphones. Tested on another amp and it's the same. As I've mentioned if pause is pressed first then play there is no pop. Yes, the record/play switch is not spectacular. I've cleaned it several times and I should probably change it but as I don't use this deck for recording, I didn't think there was any need for it. I don't have a new switch anyway and play was just fine without any pops until about two months ago. Also, right after the deck is turned on there is no pop the first time it's put into play. After that it does every time the play button is depressed. Peter On Mon, Dec 20, 2021, 8:55 AM Peter Tanner via Naktalk, wrote: Hi everybody, My otherwise great working 480 developed a problem which has been getting worse lately. When I press play there is a large pop and the needles on the meters swing widely. Then it plays normally. This happens about 8 over 10 times. If I put the deck in pause first, then play there is no pop. I wonder if anyone has any idea what it can be caused by. Thanks Peter -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Wed Jan 12 19:37:43 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Peter Tanner via Naktalk) Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2022 18:37:43 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] 480 In-Reply-To: <1207423318.3129281.1641921555049@mail.yahoo.com> References: <744288584.2409648.1641682862399@mail.yahoo.com> <1207423318.3129281.1641921555049@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks, Kannan. The orange caps have been changed in this deck. In the meantime, we have found the problem. It was a poor solder on the pot that is turned by the control motor. The middle pin on that pot got partly corroded. With the deck on and in play friend of mine started to touch various wires and when he touched the middle blue wire on that pot it started to pop all over the place. So the contact was bad. Reflowed it and now it's just fine. No more pops when the play button is pressed. I still don't understand why it was okay if it was put in pause first then play but in any case no more pops except when it's put into the record mode but that's caused by the switch which is another issue. Thanks everybody for the input. Peter ________________________________ From: Naktalk on behalf of kannan srinivasaraghavan via Naktalk Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2022 9:19 AM To: Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Subject: Re: [naktalk] 480 Very good chance that it is related to Orange Cap issue - read the Wiki article in Naktalk ( see the bottom of the mails show the link) replace the Orange Capacitor in Dolby Circuit area ( possibly) or other play back circuit paths It should resolve the issue Also check Mute circuit if Orange Cap replacement does not resolve this kannan Thanks for the message. I didn't think I was going to get a reply since I posted this 3 weeks ago. The pop is heard thru the speakers and headphones. Tested on another amp and it's the same. As I've mentioned if pause is pressed first then play there is no pop. Yes, the record/play switch is not spectacular. I've cleaned it several times and I should probably change it but as I don't use this deck for recording, I didn't think there was any need for it. I don't have a new switch anyway and play was just fine without any pops until about two months ago. Also, right after the deck is turned on there is no pop the first time it's put into play. After that it does every time the play button is depressed. Peter On Mon, Dec 20, 2021, 8:55 AM Peter Tanner via Naktalk, > wrote: Hi everybody, My otherwise great working 480 developed a problem which has been getting worse lately. When I press play there is a large pop and the needles on the meters swing widely. Then it plays normally. This happens about 8 over 10 times. If I put the deck in pause first, then play there is no pop. I wonder if anyone has any idea what it can be caused by. Thanks Peter -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Fri Jan 14 22:59:00 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (martin ferreira via Naktalk) Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2022 21:59:00 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon-left channel down Message-ID: Need advice. Dragon's left channel with diminished highs on forward direction only. Record Calibration results in no signal from left channel in either bias or level. Any ideas? Thanks Martin Ferreira -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Fri Jan 14 23:35:28 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2022 09:35:28 +1100 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon-left channel down In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hi Martin,Try cleaning the tape/source switchKind RegardsGraham  ----- Original Message ----- From: "martin ferreira" "Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks" To:"Naktalk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks" Cc: Sent:Fri, 14 Jan 2022 21:59:00 +0000 Subject:[naktalk] Dragon-left channel down Need advice. Dragon's left channel with diminished highs on forward direction only. Record Calibration results in no signal from left channel in either bias or level. Any ideas? Thanks _Martin Ferreira_ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Fri Jan 14 23:14:37 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Richard L. Hess via Naktalk) Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2022 17:14:37 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon-left channel down In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Carefully clean the play head? On 2022-01-14 4:59 p.m., martin ferreira via Naktalk wrote: > Need advice. Dragon's left channel with diminished highs on forward > direction only. Record Calibration results in no signal from left > channel in either bias or level. Any ideas? Thanks > > > -- Richard L. Hess email:richard at richardhess.com Aurora, Ontario, Canadahttp://www.richardhess.com/ http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Jan 15 00:17:49 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Dwight Price via Naktalk) Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2022 23:17:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Dragon-left channel down In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1300740545.882946.1642202269278@mail.yahoo.com> Just a thought, and (without more info) just a shot in the dark. The two things I'd check first (in order): 1. Manually (and carefully) clean the heads, guides and pinch rollers.  (All of them...) 2. You could check the record head alignment relative to the PB alignment.  But it's not likely that far out if it hasn't previously been an issue.  Generally speaking with respect to the format, it's the Left channel that gets flaky first when there's an issue concerning track alignment. Good luck! Dwight -----Original Message----- From: martin ferreira via Naktalk To: Naktalk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Sent: Fri, Jan 14, 2022 4:59 pm Subject: [naktalk] Dragon-left channel down #yiv9270907230 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}Need advice. Dragon's left channel with diminished highs on forward direction only. Record Calibration results in no signal from left channel in either bias or level. Any ideas? Thanks Martin Ferreira========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Jan 15 14:34:10 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Perry.nak via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2022 08:34:10 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] No left channel Dragon Message-ID: <2673AE13-A30B-46A8-B435-A75E3ECC3D13@comcast.net> Easy way to check the left channel issue. Open the deck up from the bottom and access the underside of the main board, by removing the 3 screws in the NAAC board and hinge it down. The left channel head connector is the middle one with 4 connections (2 ground and 2 signal, left forward & left reverse) to the outside right hand side if the deck when viewed normally. Record connector is red, right hand connector has 8, so easy to spot. Remove the connector from the PCB and swap the middle two signal wires. The grounds can stay where they are. If you don’t know how to remove the wires from the shell, then all this may be too much for you. But it is easy; with a tiny jewelers screwdriver there is a tiny tab thay must be depressed on the open slot of the connector while pulling gently on the wire. It slides right out. Reconnect and try the deck again. (WORD OF CAUTION: do not allow the NAAC board to hinge down against the transport. You will short out. Put and insulator between board & transport) If the left channel in reverse is bad now, then the problem is the head. If the problem stays with the right channel then it is most likely at least one switch in the left channel 4066 cmos switch is bad, and can be easily replaced. Seen it, fixed it. Hope it is not the head!! Sent from my iPhone From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Jan 15 22:09:20 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Perry.nak via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2022 16:09:20 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] No left channel Dragon In-Reply-To: <004801d80a2a$4ab10910$e0131b30$@telia.com> References: <004801d80a2a$4ab10910$e0131b30$@telia.com> Message-ID: There are two coils per gap on Nakamichi play heads. One coil shorts (not to ground), so HF performance suffers. When one coil opens, signal is lost completely. This a more typical failure on the right channel of standard 3head classic play head. If both left channels are down, that is typically just wear. Not unusual to see 5-6dB down on both left channels and right channel only down 2, as it appears the dual gap design in the right channels wear better. There is no fix. Personally I would use the TD1200 head if known good, and modify the mount. Otherwise you just have a Dragon with a crap left channel in reverse if you turn it around. Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:09 AM, Pär Eriksson wrote: > > Hi all, > > Funny, or not so funny actually, I sit here with the same problem. I have already swapped the wires and the fault moved to the other l/h channel. So it is a head issue in my case. > Perry, do you know what causes this? In my case the l/h fwd channel is 8 db lower than the r/h channel. I did some experiment and connected a 330 pf capacitor across the signal > wire and ground on the circuit board below the connector from the head and by doing so I raised the signal up to the same level as the r/h channel when running the azimuth 15kHz > tape. However, above 15k the signal drops dramatically. > > I now have the choice to use a head from a scrapped TD1200 I have or turn the original head around 180 degree. Both solutions require modification of the head block and in the case > of the TD head modification of the pressure pad lifter. Looking forward for advice. > > Regards Pelle. > > -----Ursprungligt meddelande----- > Från: Naktalk [mailto:naktalk-bounces at lists.naks.com] För Perry.nak via Naktalk > Skickat: den 15 januari 2022 14:34 > Till: naktalk at lists.naks.com > Ämne: [naktalk] No left channel Dragon > > Easy way to check the left channel issue. Open the deck up from the bottom and access the underside of the main board, by removing the 3 screws in the NAAC board and hinge it down. The left channel head connector is the middle one with 4 connections (2 ground and 2 signal, left forward & left reverse) to the outside right hand side if the deck when viewed normally. Record connector is red, right hand connector has 8, so easy to spot. > > Remove the connector from the PCB and swap the middle two signal wires. The grounds can stay where they are. If you don’t know how to remove the wires from the shell, then all this may be too much for you. But it is easy; with a tiny jewelers screwdriver there is a tiny tab thay must be depressed on the open slot of the connector while pulling gently on the wire. It slides right out. Reconnect and try the deck again. (WORD OF CAUTION: do not allow the NAAC board to hinge down against the transport. You will short out. Put and insulator between board & transport) > > If the left channel in reverse is bad now, then the problem is the head. If the problem stays with the right channel then it is most likely at least one switch in the left channel 4066 cmos switch is bad, and can be easily replaced. > > Seen it, fixed it. Hope it is not the head!! > > Sent from my iPhone > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Jan 16 02:26:14 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Tom Brucker via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2022 19:26:14 -0600 Subject: [naktalk] 480 In-Reply-To: References: <744288584.2409648.1641682862399@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Any DC caused by a leaky electrolytic capacitor can cause pops in muting circuits. I don't have my manuals at home, but if you see 2sc2878 transistors near the line out jacks, replace both. These leak and cause pops. On Sat, Jan 8, 2022, 5:14 PM Peter Tanner via Naktalk < naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > Yes, thanks, that's what I've thought but to find out which one or ones is > a tall order. The orange caps in this deck were changed a year or so ago. > Otherwise it's all original. > Peter > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Dr Doug > *Sent:* Saturday, January 8, 2022 3:01 PM > *To:* Phineas Paine ; Talk about Nakamichi > Cassette Decks ; Peter Tanner < > pbtanner at hotmail.com> > *Subject:* Re: [naktalk] 480 > > Just a guess but I would bet it's a capacitor. I'm not a Nak expert, but > most of the time pops are related to a capacitor failing and it gets worse > over time. I'd check the caps around the switches that get activated, good > luck. Maybe Mr. W. Herman has an idea? I know he's very busy with Nak > repairs. > Doug > On Saturday, January 8, 2022, 02:29:05 PM PST, Peter Tanner via Naktalk < > naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > > > Thanks for the message. I didn't think I was going to get a reply since I > posted this 3 weeks ago. > > The pop is heard thru the speakers and headphones. Tested on another amp > and it's the same. As I've mentioned if pause is pressed first then play > there is no pop. Yes, the record/play switch is not spectacular. I've > cleaned it several times and I should probably change it but as I don't use > this deck for recording, I didn't think there was any need for it. I don't > have a new switch anyway and play was just fine without any pops until > about two months ago. Also, right after the deck is turned on there is no > pop the first time it's put into play. After that it does every time the > play button is depressed. > > Peter > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Phineas Paine > *Sent:* Saturday, January 8, 2022 9:24 AM > *To:* Peter Tanner ; Talk about Nakamichi Cassette > Decks > *Subject:* Re: [naktalk] 480 > > Well, we need more info to narrow the focus. > > 1. Is the pop heard through amp/speakers, or the 480's headphone jack, or > both? > 2. Do you have another amp you can play the 480 through to see if the pop > moves with the 480, or stays behind with the amp? Switch components to > verify. > 3. If the pop is positively isolated to the 480, and based on the answer > to 1. above, we would need to step through the circuitry to find the > offending component, if it's a dead or shorted semiconductor. > > But first I'd try cleaning (deoxit) the usual suspects... controls and > switches. The record/play switch might be the issue, as a dirty one can > introduce all kinds of noise. > > Let us know > Phineas > > > On Mon, Dec 20, 2021, 8:55 AM Peter Tanner via Naktalk, < > naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > > Hi everybody, > > My otherwise great working 480 developed a problem which has been getting > worse lately. When I press play there is a large pop and the needles on the > meters swing widely. Then it plays normally. This happens about 8 over 10 > times. If I put the deck in pause first, then play there is no pop. I > wonder if anyone has any idea what it can be caused by. Thanks > > Peter > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Jan 16 02:28:02 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Tom Brucker via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2022 19:28:02 -0600 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon-left channel down In-Reply-To: <1300740545.882946.1642202269278@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1300740545.882946.1642202269278@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Slide the pad lifter off and clean the play head. Reinstall the lifter and you should be ok. On Sat, Jan 15, 2022, 12:09 AM Dwight Price via Naktalk < naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > Just a thought, and (without more info) just a shot in the dark. > > The two things I'd check first (in order): > > 1. Manually (and carefully) clean the heads, guides and pinch rollers. > (All of them...) > > 2. You could check the record head alignment relative to the PB > alignment. But it's not likely that far out if it hasn't previously been > an issue. > > Generally speaking with respect to the format, it's the Left channel that > gets flaky first when there's an issue concerning track alignment. > > > Good luck! > > Dwight > > > -----Original Message----- > From: martin ferreira via Naktalk > To: Naktalk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks > Sent: Fri, Jan 14, 2022 4:59 pm > Subject: [naktalk] Dragon-left channel down > > Need advice. Dragon's left channel with diminished highs on forward > direction only. Record Calibration results in no signal from left channel > in either bias or level. Any ideas? Thanks > > *Martin Ferreira* > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Jan 16 02:31:58 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Tom Brucker via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2022 19:31:58 -0600 Subject: [naktalk] No left channel Dragon In-Reply-To: References: <004801d80a2a$4ab10910$e0131b30$@telia.com> Message-ID: Be patient and wait for a used head. Modifying the mount is not a good idea. On Sat, Jan 15, 2022, 3:09 PM Perry.nak via Naktalk wrote: > There are two coils per gap on Nakamichi play heads. One coil shorts (not > to ground), so HF performance suffers. When one coil opens, signal is lost > completely. This a more typical failure on the right channel of standard > 3head classic play head. If both left channels are down, that is typically > just wear. Not unusual to see 5-6dB down on both left channels and right > channel only down 2, as it appears the dual gap design in the right > channels wear better. There is no fix. Personally I would use the TD1200 > head if known good, and modify the mount. Otherwise you just have a Dragon > with a crap left channel in reverse if you turn it around. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:09 AM, Pär Eriksson wrote: > > > > Hi all, > > > > Funny, or not so funny actually, I sit here with the same problem. I > have already swapped the wires and the fault moved to the other l/h > channel. So it is a head issue in my case. > > Perry, do you know what causes this? In my case the l/h fwd channel is 8 > db lower than the r/h channel. I did some experiment and connected a 330 pf > capacitor across the signal > > wire and ground on the circuit board below the connector from the head > and by doing so I raised the signal up to the same level as the r/h channel > when running the azimuth 15kHz > > tape. However, above 15k the signal drops dramatically. > > > > I now have the choice to use a head from a scrapped TD1200 I have or > turn the original head around 180 degree. Both solutions require > modification of the head block and in the case > > of the TD head modification of the pressure pad lifter. Looking forward > for advice. > > > > Regards Pelle. > > > > -----Ursprungligt meddelande----- > > Från: Naktalk [mailto:naktalk-bounces at lists.naks.com] För Perry.nak via > Naktalk > > Skickat: den 15 januari 2022 14:34 > > Till: naktalk at lists.naks.com > > Ämne: [naktalk] No left channel Dragon > > > > Easy way to check the left channel issue. Open the deck up from the > bottom and access the underside of the main board, by removing the 3 screws > in the NAAC board and hinge it down. The left channel head connector is the > middle one with 4 connections (2 ground and 2 signal, left forward & left > reverse) to the outside right hand side if the deck when viewed normally. > Record connector is red, right hand connector has 8, so easy to spot. > > > > Remove the connector from the PCB and swap the middle two signal wires. > The grounds can stay where they are. If you don’t know how to remove the > wires from the shell, then all this may be too much for you. But it is > easy; with a tiny jewelers screwdriver there is a tiny tab thay must be > depressed on the open slot of the connector while pulling gently on the > wire. It slides right out. Reconnect and try the deck again. (WORD OF > CAUTION: do not allow the NAAC board to hinge down against the transport. > You will short out. Put and insulator between board & transport) > > > > If the left channel in reverse is bad now, then the problem is the head. > If the problem stays with the right channel then it is most likely at least > one switch in the left channel 4066 cmos switch is bad, and can be easily > replaced. > > > > Seen it, fixed it. Hope it is not the head!! > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your > account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Jan 16 16:14:55 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (martin ferreira via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 15:14:55 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon-left channel down In-Reply-To: References: <1300740545.882946.1642202269278@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Tom I did what you suggested to remove pad lifter and clean the head and it seems to work now . However the recording bias and the level setting levels are low on the left channel with some distortion during recording. i tried the rough calibration adjustment as per user's manual but to no avail. any further ideas? thanks Martin Ferreira ________________________________ From: Naktalk on behalf of Tom Brucker via Naktalk Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2022 1:28 AM To: Dwight Price ; Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Subject: Re: [naktalk] Dragon-left channel down Slide the pad lifter off and clean the play head. Reinstall the lifter and you should be ok. On Sat, Jan 15, 2022, 12:09 AM Dwight Price via Naktalk > wrote: Just a thought, and (without more info) just a shot in the dark. The two things I'd check first (in order): 1. Manually (and carefully) clean the heads, guides and pinch rollers. (All of them...) 2. You could check the record head alignment relative to the PB alignment. But it's not likely that far out if it hasn't previously been an issue. Generally speaking with respect to the format, it's the Left channel that gets flaky first when there's an issue concerning track alignment. Good luck! Dwight -----Original Message----- From: martin ferreira via Naktalk > To: Naktalk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks > Sent: Fri, Jan 14, 2022 4:59 pm Subject: [naktalk] Dragon-left channel down Need advice. Dragon's left channel with diminished highs on forward direction only. Record Calibration results in no signal from left channel in either bias or level. Any ideas? Thanks Martin Ferreira ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Jan 16 20:06:37 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (martin ferreira via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 19:06:37 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] No left channel Dragon In-Reply-To: References: <004801d80a2a$4ab10910$e0131b30$@telia.com> Message-ID: Update Recording calibration all working now after good recording head cleaning A GREAT thank you goes out to fellow Naker who help keep these machines alive Martin Ferreira ________________________________ From: Naktalk on behalf of Tom Brucker via Naktalk Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2022 1:31 AM To: Perry.nak ; Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Subject: Re: [naktalk] No left channel Dragon Be patient and wait for a used head. Modifying the mount is not a good idea. On Sat, Jan 15, 2022, 3:09 PM Perry.nak via Naktalk > wrote: There are two coils per gap on Nakamichi play heads. One coil shorts (not to ground), so HF performance suffers. When one coil opens, signal is lost completely. This a more typical failure on the right channel of standard 3head classic play head. If both left channels are down, that is typically just wear. Not unusual to see 5-6dB down on both left channels and right channel only down 2, as it appears the dual gap design in the right channels wear better. There is no fix. Personally I would use the TD1200 head if known good, and modify the mount. Otherwise you just have a Dragon with a crap left channel in reverse if you turn it around. Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:09 AM, Pär Eriksson > wrote: > > Hi all, > > Funny, or not so funny actually, I sit here with the same problem. I have already swapped the wires and the fault moved to the other l/h channel. So it is a head issue in my case. > Perry, do you know what causes this? In my case the l/h fwd channel is 8 db lower than the r/h channel. I did some experiment and connected a 330 pf capacitor across the signal > wire and ground on the circuit board below the connector from the head and by doing so I raised the signal up to the same level as the r/h channel when running the azimuth 15kHz > tape. However, above 15k the signal drops dramatically. > > I now have the choice to use a head from a scrapped TD1200 I have or turn the original head around 180 degree. Both solutions require modification of the head block and in the case > of the TD head modification of the pressure pad lifter. Looking forward for advice. > > Regards Pelle. > > -----Ursprungligt meddelande----- > Från: Naktalk [mailto:naktalk-bounces at lists.naks.com] För Perry.nak via Naktalk > Skickat: den 15 januari 2022 14:34 > Till: naktalk at lists.naks.com > Ämne: [naktalk] No left channel Dragon > > Easy way to check the left channel issue. Open the deck up from the bottom and access the underside of the main board, by removing the 3 screws in the NAAC board and hinge it down. The left channel head connector is the middle one with 4 connections (2 ground and 2 signal, left forward & left reverse) to the outside right hand side if the deck when viewed normally. Record connector is red, right hand connector has 8, so easy to spot. > > Remove the connector from the PCB and swap the middle two signal wires. The grounds can stay where they are. If you don’t know how to remove the wires from the shell, then all this may be too much for you. But it is easy; with a tiny jewelers screwdriver there is a tiny tab thay must be depressed on the open slot of the connector while pulling gently on the wire. It slides right out. Reconnect and try the deck again. (WORD OF CAUTION: do not allow the NAAC board to hinge down against the transport. You will short out. Put and insulator between board & transport) > > If the left channel in reverse is bad now, then the problem is the head. If the problem stays with the right channel then it is most likely at least one switch in the left channel 4066 cmos switch is bad, and can be easily replaced. > > Seen it, fixed it. Hope it is not the head!! > > Sent from my iPhone > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Jan 17 13:10:35 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Peter Tanner via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 12:10:35 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] 480 In-Reply-To: References: <744288584.2409648.1641682862399@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The only transistors I can see near the line out jacks are 2sc945. Thought this issue was fixed by re soldering a lose wire on the cam gear pot but the pop reappears again albeit not as loud and occasionally when pause is activated as well. ________________________________ From: Tom Brucker Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2022 5:26 PM To: Peter Tanner ; Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Subject: Re: [naktalk] 480 Any DC caused by a leaky electrolytic capacitor can cause pops in muting circuits. I don't have my manuals at home, but if you see 2sc2878 transistors near the line out jacks, replace both. These leak and cause pops. On Sat, Jan 8, 2022, 5:14 PM Peter Tanner via Naktalk > wrote: Yes, thanks, that's what I've thought but to find out which one or ones is a tall order. The orange caps in this deck were changed a year or so ago. Otherwise it's all original. Peter ________________________________ From: Dr Doug > Sent: Saturday, January 8, 2022 3:01 PM To: Phineas Paine >; Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks >; Peter Tanner > Subject: Re: [naktalk] 480 Just a guess but I would bet it's a capacitor. I'm not a Nak expert, but most of the time pops are related to a capacitor failing and it gets worse over time. I'd check the caps around the switches that get activated, good luck. Maybe Mr. W. Herman has an idea? I know he's very busy with Nak repairs. Doug On Saturday, January 8, 2022, 02:29:05 PM PST, Peter Tanner via Naktalk > wrote: Thanks for the message. I didn't think I was going to get a reply since I posted this 3 weeks ago. The pop is heard thru the speakers and headphones. Tested on another amp and it's the same. As I've mentioned if pause is pressed first then play there is no pop. Yes, the record/play switch is not spectacular. I've cleaned it several times and I should probably change it but as I don't use this deck for recording, I didn't think there was any need for it. I don't have a new switch anyway and play was just fine without any pops until about two months ago. Also, right after the deck is turned on there is no pop the first time it's put into play. After that it does every time the play button is depressed. Peter ________________________________ From: Phineas Paine > Sent: Saturday, January 8, 2022 9:24 AM To: Peter Tanner >; Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks > Subject: Re: [naktalk] 480 Well, we need more info to narrow the focus. 1. Is the pop heard through amp/speakers, or the 480's headphone jack, or both? 2. Do you have another amp you can play the 480 through to see if the pop moves with the 480, or stays behind with the amp? Switch components to verify. 3. If the pop is positively isolated to the 480, and based on the answer to 1. above, we would need to step through the circuitry to find the offending component, if it's a dead or shorted semiconductor. But first I'd try cleaning (deoxit) the usual suspects... controls and switches. The record/play switch might be the issue, as a dirty one can introduce all kinds of noise. Let us know Phineas On Mon, Dec 20, 2021, 8:55 AM Peter Tanner via Naktalk, > wrote: Hi everybody, My otherwise great working 480 developed a problem which has been getting worse lately. When I press play there is a large pop and the needles on the meters swing widely. Then it plays normally. This happens about 8 over 10 times. If I put the deck in pause first, then play there is no pop. I wonder if anyone has any idea what it can be caused by. Thanks Peter ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Jan 24 22:57:10 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Steve Sabin via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2022 13:57:10 -0800 Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 References: Message-ID: <03DCE2F2-F542-4AD4-9401-D61F876B28CE@gmail.com> I am new to these lists, so kindly bear with me as I learn and begin interacting. I am currently in the process of getting my Nak 500 back into shape and have some questions about belts. I am replacing two burned out lamps myself. Below is some background color commentary followed by my questions. I have no appetite to do the service myself, but am headed that direction only because I cannot find a reputable service provider that is willing to do it. I fully understand that they have a reputation to maintain and they don’t want to deliver an inferior refurbishment caused by items outside their control (sub-standard parts). Having everything work to pristine, as-new specs is less important to me than the sentimental value of this deck, but I would like it to be at least listenable. Right now, it is wholly unlistenable. *****BACKGROUND***** I am the original owner of a Nakamichi 500 (s/n 3528686). It was purchased in Dec 1977 at a local stereo boutique in the Pacific Northwest. I have packed it with me all of these years through about 15 moves across states and even across international boundaries. It holds a lot of sentimental value even though I am sure there are superior sounding Nak and non-Nak decks with 3 heads instead of 2, metal tape capabilities, Dolby C instead of Dolby B, etc. I saved for an entire summer working on a ranch to buy this deck as part of my “dream system” consisting of a Sony TA-5650 integrated amp with V-FET power transistors, Sonab OD-11 speakers, Dual 501 turntable, Grace cartridge, and the Nak 500 to capture the pristine vinyl directly from the shrink wrap onto tape (usually TDK-SA) and then put the vinyl back in the sleeve. The whole assemblage cost me $1600 in 1977 and I have never for one millisecond had any buyer’s remorse. A friend gave me an old Harman-Kardon ST2000 tuner that has never worked all that great, but brought in passably good FM stereo back in the day. I rarely listen to the radio these days and most of the music on that system is from a CD Player (Sony CDP-590) or streaming from my Apple TV. When I got the CD player, my reliance on vinyl and cassettes rapidly diminished. I bought CDs for most everything in my vinyl collection except for those that were unavailable like a few direct-to-disk titles that have phenomenal fidelity. *****LAMPS***** I am in the process of replacing the lamps on the Nak 500 and was able to find the original 12Vdc 25mA incandescents for the REC and DOLBY indicators on eBay as Radio Shack p/n 272-1141. The bulb diameters are identical (4.7mm) and the only difference from the factory originals is the lead colors (blue/white incumbent lamps from factory versus red/white in the 272-1141s). For the VU meters, I also wanted to go with incandescents rather than LEDs because I just like the retro-vibe that the incandescent hue lends. I have been working with Dave Wojnarowski (dgwojo.com/) out of Michigan to help me with the replacement lamps for the VU meters (7381 lamps with bi-pin base). *****BELT***** I was having issues with the play button staying depressed (was constantly triggering the auto-shutoff) and so I took the deck to a repair shop, run by a guy in his 70s who I assumed would be fluent in this older 70s-era gear. He fixed the issue with the play button, but decided to replace the belts while he was in there. I had no idea the results would be so unpalatable. There were no discernable wow & flutter issues when I dropped off the deck. When I picked it up, it sounded awful – basically unlistenable. I had no idea a belt was so critical. *****QUESTIONS***** Q1) I’m looking for resources that help me understand the physics of why the belt is so crucial. As I understand it, the motor poles introduce tiny torsional fluctuations in speed that are smoothed out by the rotational inertia of the flywheel and by the damping effect of the belt that want to keep everything moving at the same speed rather than respond to every miniscule fluctuation of the motor. But I’d like to understand this better and what separates a good belt (like the original in the unit) from a crappy belt (like the “replacement” in there now). Q2) I reached out to Willy Hermann and also ES Labs, but neither one wants to work on the Nak 500 anymore due to the lack of good quality replacement parts. I was momentarily optimistic when I read about belts from Fred Marrs, but then quickly realized his daughter has basically destroyed whatever credibility the business might have had at one time and is now efficient only in taking money without delivering product. I’d like to get the wow& flutter back within reasonable tolerances so I can keep enjoying this deck, but I don’t know where to turn for service or (dare I say it) DIY replacement of the belt by sourcing parts myself. I am reasonably handy, and am replacing the burned out DOLBY and VU meter lamps myself, but the belt takes things to a whole different level in terms of nuance and subtle details. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Jan 24 23:56:57 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Glenn Stasky via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2022 22:56:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 In-Reply-To: <03DCE2F2-F542-4AD4-9401-D61F876B28CE@gmail.com> References: <03DCE2F2-F542-4AD4-9401-D61F876B28CE@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1719703203.981287.1643065017969@mail.yahoo.com> Steve, Welcome to the group. The early Nak decks are difficult to find parts for.  I used to work for Nakamichi in the 1980's. Great times. I bought a ZX-9 through their employee purchase program in 1985. I still have it and it runs perfectlythanks to Willy Hermann. It actually performs better than new.  I heard that there is a source for tape belts here:  https://www.vintage-electronics.net/nakamichi-500-belt-kit.aspx I know nothing about their quality, but it is worth a look.  The durometer, thickness and elasticity of a belt contribute to its performance.  Let us know how the 500 belt search goes. Good luck Glenn -----Original Message----- From: Steve Sabin via Naktalk To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Sent: Mon, Jan 24, 2022 1:57 pm Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 I am new to these lists, so kindly bear with me as I learn and begin interacting. I am currently in the process of getting my Nak 500 back into shape and have some questions about belts. I am replacing two burned out lamps myself. Below is some background color commentary followed by my questions. I have no appetite to do the service myself, but am headed that direction only because I cannot find a reputable service provider that is willing to do it.  I fully understand that they have a reputation to maintain and they don’t want to deliver an inferior refurbishment caused by items outside their control (sub-standard parts).  Having everything work to pristine, as-new specs is less important to me than the sentimental value of this deck, but I would like it to be at least listenable.  Right now, it is wholly unlistenable.  *****BACKGROUND*****I am the original owner of a Nakamichi 500 (s/n 3528686).  It was purchased in Dec 1977 at a local stereo boutique in the Pacific Northwest.  I have packed it with me all of these years through about 15 moves across states and even across international boundaries.  It holds a lot of sentimental value even though I am sure there are superior sounding Nak and non-Nak decks with 3 heads instead of 2, metal tape capabilities, Dolby C instead of Dolby B, etc.  I saved for an entire summer working on a ranch to buy this deck as part of my “dream system” consisting of a Sony TA-5650 integrated amp with V-FET power transistors, Sonab OD-11 speakers, Dual 501 turntable, Grace cartridge, and the Nak 500 to capture the pristine vinyl directly from the shrink wrap onto tape (usually TDK-SA) and then put the vinyl back in the sleeve.  The whole assemblage cost me $1600 in 1977 and I have never for one millisecond had any buyer’s remorse.  A friend gave me an old Harman-Kardon ST2000 tuner that has never worked all that great, but brought in passably good FM stereo back in the day.  I rarely listen to the radio these days and most of the music on that system is from a CD Player (Sony CDP-590) or streaming from my Apple TV.  When I got the CD player, my reliance on vinyl and cassettes rapidly diminished.  I bought CDs for most everything in my vinyl collection except for those that were unavailable like a few direct-to-disk titles that have phenomenal fidelity.   *****LAMPS*****I am in the process of replacing the lamps on the Nak 500 and was able to find the original 12Vdc 25mA incandescents for the REC and DOLBY indicators on eBay as Radio Shack p/n 272-1141.  The bulb diameters are identical (4.7mm) and the only difference from the factory originals is the lead colors (blue/white incumbent lamps from factory versus red/white in the 272-1141s).  For the VU meters, I also wanted to go with incandescents rather than LEDs because I just like the retro-vibe that the incandescent hue lends.  I have been working with Dave Wojnarowski (dgwojo.com/) out of Michigan to help me with the replacement lamps for the VU meters (7381 lamps with bi-pin base).   *****BELT*****I was having issues with the play button staying depressed (was constantly triggering the auto-shutoff) and so I took the deck to a repair shop, run by a guy in his 70s who I assumed would be fluent in this older 70s-era gear.  He fixed the issue with the play button, but decided to replace the belts while he was in there.  I had no idea the results would be so unpalatable.  There were no discernable wow & flutter issues when I dropped off the deck.  When I picked it up, it sounded awful – basically unlistenable.  I had no idea a belt was so critical.  *****QUESTIONS*****Q1) I’m looking for resources that help me understand the physics of why the belt is so crucial.  As I understand it, the motor poles introduce tiny torsional fluctuations in speed that are smoothed out by the rotational inertia of the flywheel and by the damping effect of the belt that want to keep everything moving at the same speed rather than respond to every miniscule fluctuation of the motor.  But I’d like to understand this better and what separates a good belt (like the original in the unit) from a crappy belt (like the “replacement” in there now). Q2) I reached out to Willy Hermann and also ES Labs, but neither one wants to work on the Nak 500 anymore due to the lack of good quality replacement parts.  I was momentarily optimistic when I read about belts from Fred Marrs, but then quickly realized his daughter has basically destroyed whatever credibility the business might have had at one time and is now efficient only in taking money without delivering product. I’d like to get the wow& flutter back within reasonable tolerances so I can keep enjoying this deck, but I don’t know where to turn for service or (dare I say it) DIY replacement of the belt by sourcing parts myself. I am reasonably handy, and am replacing the burned out DOLBY and VU meter lamps myself, but the belt takes things to a whole different level in terms of nuance and subtle details.  ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Jan 25 01:40:43 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Ramachandran Ram via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2022 19:40:43 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 In-Reply-To: <03DCE2F2-F542-4AD4-9401-D61F876B28CE@gmail.com> References: <03DCE2F2-F542-4AD4-9401-D61F876B28CE@gmail.com> Message-ID: <20024583-FF46-4277-B81F-8C59D5795D6F@yahoo.com> I had my 550 done over by Dan Barham aka NakmanDan who is from Chicago. The deck sounds great. However he didn’t replace its original belt as they’re unobtainable to go with this deck. Pm me at 5169936025 and I shall give you his contact. Ram. > On Jan 24, 2022, at 5:22 PM, Steve Sabin via Naktalk wrote: > > I am new to these lists, so kindly bear with me as I learn and begin interacting. I am currently in the process of getting my Nak 500 back into shape and have some questions about belts. I am replacing two burned out lamps myself. Below is some background color commentary followed by my questions. I have no appetite to do the service myself, but am headed that direction only because I cannot find a reputable service provider that is willing to do it. I fully understand that they have a reputation to maintain and they don’t want to deliver an inferior refurbishment caused by items outside their control (sub-standard parts). Having everything work to pristine, as-new specs is less important to me than the sentimental value of this deck, but I would like it to be at least listenable. Right now, it is wholly unlistenable. > > *****BACKGROUND***** > I am the original owner of a Nakamichi 500 (s/n 3528686). It was purchased in Dec 1977 at a local stereo boutique in the Pacific Northwest. I have packed it with me all of these years through about 15 moves across states and even across international boundaries. It holds a lot of sentimental value even though I am sure there are superior sounding Nak and non-Nak decks with 3 heads instead of 2, metal tape capabilities, Dolby C instead of Dolby B, etc. I saved for an entire summer working on a ranch to buy this deck as part of my “dream system” consisting of a Sony TA-5650 integrated amp with V-FET power transistors, Sonab OD-11 speakers, Dual 501 turntable, Grace cartridge, and the Nak 500 to capture the pristine vinyl directly from the shrink wrap onto tape (usually TDK-SA) and then put the vinyl back in the sleeve. The whole assemblage cost me $1600 in 1977 and I have never for one millisecond had any buyer’s remorse. A friend gave me an old Harman-Kardon ST2000 tuner that has never worked all that great, but brought in passably good FM stereo back in the day. I rarely listen to the radio these days and most of the music on that system is from a CD Player (Sony CDP-590) or streaming from my Apple TV. When I got the CD player, my reliance on vinyl and cassettes rapidly diminished. I bought CDs for most everything in my vinyl collection except for those that were unavailable like a few direct-to-disk titles that have phenomenal fidelity. > > *****LAMPS***** > I am in the process of replacing the lamps on the Nak 500 and was able to find the original 12Vdc 25mA incandescents for the REC and DOLBY indicators on eBay as Radio Shack p/n 272-1141. The bulb diameters are identical (4.7mm) and the only difference from the factory originals is the lead colors (blue/white incumbent lamps from factory versus red/white in the 272-1141s). For the VU meters, I also wanted to go with incandescents rather than LEDs because I just like the retro-vibe that the incandescent hue lends. I have been working with Dave Wojnarowski (dgwojo.com/) out of Michigan to help me with the replacement lamps for the VU meters (7381 lamps with bi-pin base). > > *****BELT***** > I was having issues with the play button staying depressed (was constantly triggering the auto-shutoff) and so I took the deck to a repair shop, run by a guy in his 70s who I assumed would be fluent in this older 70s-era gear. He fixed the issue with the play button, but decided to replace the belts while he was in there. I had no idea the results would be so unpalatable. There were no discernable wow & flutter issues when I dropped off the deck. When I picked it up, it sounded awful – basically unlistenable. I had no idea a belt was so critical. > > *****QUESTIONS***** > Q1) I’m looking for resources that help me understand the physics of why the belt is so crucial. As I understand it, the motor poles introduce tiny torsional fluctuations in speed that are smoothed out by the rotational inertia of the flywheel and by the damping effect of the belt that want to keep everything moving at the same speed rather than respond to every miniscule fluctuation of the motor. But I’d like to understand this better and what separates a good belt (like the original in the unit) from a crappy belt (like the “replacement” in there now). > > Q2) I reached out to Willy Hermann and also ES Labs, but neither one wants to work on the Nak 500 anymore due to the lack of good quality replacement parts. I was momentarily optimistic when I read about belts from Fred Marrs, but then quickly realized his daughter has basically destroyed whatever credibility the business might have had at one time and is now efficient only in taking money without delivering product. I’d like to get the wow& flutter back within reasonable tolerances so I can keep enjoying this deck, but I don’t know where to turn for service or (dare I say it) DIY replacement of the belt by sourcing parts myself. I am reasonably handy, and am replacing the burned out DOLBY and VU meter lamps myself, but the belt takes things to a whole different level in terms of nuance and subtle details. > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Jan 25 08:09:50 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (G. Fisher via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2022 07:09:50 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 Message-ID: Steve, what an exceptionally well written post. I can really empathise with your situation and your hifi journey, there are so many similarities to mine. I keep trying to breathe life into my Nakamichi 480 because it was the first Nak that I saved all my hard earned junior wages for in 1985, purchasing it second hand for $350 Australian dollars when I was earning about $100 a week at the time. I have 'better' Naks now but I will do my utmost to avoid turning my 480 into a parts deck, we've been on a very long journey together. Irrational? Undoubtedly, but that's the power of sentiment for you. Wishing you all the best with your repairs and restoration. Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: Steve Sabin via Naktalk Date: 25/1/22 9:22 am (GMT+10:00) To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 I am new to these lists, so kindly bear with me as I learn and begin interacting. I am currently in the process of getting my Nak 500 back into shape and have some questions about belts. I am replacing two burned out lamps myself. Below is some background color commentary followed by my questions. I have no appetite to do the service myself, but am headed that direction only because I cannot find a reputable service provider that is willing to do it. I fully understand that they have a reputation to maintain and they don’t want to deliver an inferior refurbishment caused by items outside their control (sub-standard parts). Having everything work to pristine, as-new specs is less important to me than the sentimental value of this deck, but I would like it to be at least listenable. Right now, it is wholly unlistenable. *****BACKGROUND***** I am the original owner of a Nakamichi 500 (s/n 3528686). It was purchased in Dec 1977 at a local stereo boutique in the Pacific Northwest. I have packed it with me all of these years through about 15 moves across states and even across international boundaries. It holds a lot of sentimental value even though I am sure there are superior sounding Nak and non-Nak decks with 3 heads instead of 2, metal tape capabilities, Dolby C instead of Dolby B, etc. I saved for an entire summer working on a ranch to buy this deck as part of my “dream system” consisting of a Sony TA-5650 integrated amp with V-FET power transistors, Sonab OD-11 speakers, Dual 501 turntable, Grace cartridge, and the Nak 500 to capture the pristine vinyl directly from the shrink wrap onto tape (usually TDK-SA) and then put the vinyl back in the sleeve. The whole assemblage cost me $1600 in 1977 and I have never for one millisecond had any buyer’s remorse. A friend gave me an old Harman-Kardon ST2000 tuner that has never worked all that great, but brought in passably good FM stereo back in the day. I rarely listen to the radio these days and most of the music on that system is from a CD Player (Sony CDP-590) or streaming from my Apple TV. When I got the CD player, my reliance on vinyl and cassettes rapidly diminished. I bought CDs for most everything in my vinyl collection except for those that were unavailable like a few direct-to-disk titles that have phenomenal fidelity. *****LAMPS***** I am in the process of replacing the lamps on the Nak 500 and was able to find the original 12Vdc 25mA incandescents for the REC and DOLBY indicators on eBay as Radio Shack p/n 272-1141. The bulb diameters are identical (4.7mm) and the only difference from the factory originals is the lead colors (blue/white incumbent lamps from factory versus red/white in the 272-1141s). For the VU meters, I also wanted to go with incandescents rather than LEDs because I just like the retro-vibe that the incandescent hue lends. I have been working with Dave Wojnarowski (dgwojo.com/) out of Michigan to help me with the replacement lamps for the VU meters (7381 lamps with bi-pin base). *****BELT***** I was having issues with the play button staying depressed (was constantly triggering the auto-shutoff) and so I took the deck to a repair shop, run by a guy in his 70s who I assumed would be fluent in this older 70s-era gear. He fixed the issue with the play button, but decided to replace the belts while he was in there. I had no idea the results would be so unpalatable. There were no discernable wow & flutter issues when I dropped off the deck. When I picked it up, it sounded awful – basically unlistenable. I had no idea a belt was so critical. *****QUESTIONS***** Q1) I’m looking for resources that help me understand the physics of why the belt is so crucial. As I understand it, the motor poles introduce tiny torsional fluctuations in speed that are smoothed out by the rotational inertia of the flywheel and by the damping effect of the belt that want to keep everything moving at the same speed rather than respond to every miniscule fluctuation of the motor. But I’d like to understand this better and what separates a good belt (like the original in the unit) from a crappy belt (like the “replacement” in there now). Q2) I reached out to Willy Hermann and also ES Labs, but neither one wants to work on the Nak 500 anymore due to the lack of good quality replacement parts. I was momentarily optimistic when I read about belts from Fred Marrs, but then quickly realized his daughter has basically destroyed whatever credibility the business might have had at one time and is now efficient only in taking money without delivering product. I’d like to get the wow& flutter back within reasonable tolerances so I can keep enjoying this deck, but I don’t know where to turn for service or (dare I say it) DIY replacement of the belt by sourcing parts myself. I am reasonably handy, and am replacing the burned out DOLBY and VU meter lamps myself, but the belt takes things to a whole different level in terms of nuance and subtle details. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Jan 25 13:05:01 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (VLADO ANGELOV via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2022 14:05:01 +0200 Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 Message-ID: <02c701d811e3$c7e128a0$57a379e0$@techno-link.com> Dear Steve, I liked your message and specially nostalgia which moves us all, your attitude towards NAK decks! I have 2 500s and quite a number of 2 and 3 head NAK decks which I manage to keep in decent condition myself thanks to very knowledgeable engineer, technical university professor Boris Ribov. To my experience there are quite reasonable quality belts you can order and get by flat belt size - quite comparable with ex Marrs quality. Change of capstan belt on Nak 500 is not a difficult job. As soon as you aim a decent performance any flat belt with proper size and lubing will do the job. Please note the pinch roller condition is even more important for the tape transport. To my experience Nak pinch rollers are with high quality rubber, so it could need a thorough clean. Hope this helps! Wish you luck! Vlad ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2022 13:57:10 -0800 From: Steve Sabin via Naktalk To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 Message-ID: <03DCE2F2-F542-4AD4-9401-D61F876B28CE at gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I am new to these lists, so kindly bear with me as I learn and begin interacting. I am currently in the process of getting my Nak 500 back into shape and have some questions about belts. I am replacing two burned out lamps myself. Below is some background color commentary followed by my questions. I have no appetite to do the service myself, but am headed that direction only because I cannot find a reputable service provider that is willing to do it. I fully understand that they have a reputation to maintain and they don’t want to deliver an inferior refurbishment caused by items outside their control (sub-standard parts). Having everything work to pristine, as-new specs is less important to me than the sentimental value of this deck, but I would like it to be at least listenable. Right now, it is wholly unlistenable. *****BACKGROUND***** I am the original owner of a Nakamichi 500 (s/n 3528686). It was purchased in Dec 1977 at a local stereo boutique in the Pacific Northwest. I have packed it with me all of these years through about 15 moves across states and even across international boundaries. It holds a lot of sentimental value even though I am sure there are superior sounding Nak and non-Nak decks with 3 heads instead of 2, metal tape capabilities, Dolby C instead of Dolby B, etc. I saved for an entire summer working on a ranch to buy this deck as part of my “dream system” consisting of a Sony TA-5650 integrated amp with V-FET power transistors, Sonab OD-11 speakers, Dual 501 turntable, Grace cartridge, and the Nak 500 to capture the pristine vinyl directly from the shrink wrap onto tape (usually TDK-SA) and then put the vinyl back in the sleeve. The whole assemblage cost me $1600 in 1977 and I have never for one millisecond had any buyer’s remorse. A friend gave me an old Harman-Kardon ST2000 tuner that has never worked all that great, but brought in passably good FM stereo back in the day. I rarely listen to the radio these days and most of the music on that system is from a CD Player (Sony CDP-590) or streaming from my Apple TV. When I got the CD player, my reliance on vinyl and cassettes rapidly diminished. I bought CDs for most everything in my vinyl collection except for those that were unavailable like a few direct-to-disk titles that have phenomenal fidelity. *****LAMPS***** I am in the process of replacing the lamps on the Nak 500 and was able to find the original 12Vdc 25mA incandescents for the REC and DOLBY indicators on eBay as Radio Shack p/n 272-1141. The bulb diameters are identical (4.7mm) and the only difference from the factory originals is the lead colors (blue/white incumbent lamps from factory versus red/white in the 272-1141s). For the VU meters, I also wanted to go with incandescents rather than LEDs because I just like the retro-vibe that the incandescent hue lends. I have been working with Dave Wojnarowski (dgwojo.com/) out of Michigan to help me with the replacement lamps for the VU meters (7381 lamps with bi-pin base). *****BELT***** I was having issues with the play button staying depressed (was constantly triggering the auto-shutoff) and so I took the deck to a repair shop, run by a guy in his 70s who I assumed would be fluent in this older 70s-era gear. He fixed the issue with the play button, but decided to replace the belts while he was in there. I had no idea the results would be so unpalatable. There were no discernable wow & flutter issues when I dropped off the deck. When I picked it up, it sounded awful – basically unlistenable. I had no idea a belt was so critical. *****QUESTIONS***** Q1) I’m looking for resources that help me understand the physics of why the belt is so crucial. As I understand it, the motor poles introduce tiny torsional fluctuations in speed that are smoothed out by the rotational inertia of the flywheel and by the damping effect of the belt that want to keep everything moving at the same speed rather than respond to every miniscule fluctuation of the motor. But I’d like to understand this better and what separates a good belt (like the original in the unit) from a crappy belt (like the “replacement” in there now). Q2) I reached out to Willy Hermann and also ES Labs, but neither one wants to work on the Nak 500 anymore due to the lack of good quality replacement parts. I was momentarily optimistic when I read about belts from Fred Marrs, but then quickly realized his daughter has basically destroyed whatever credibility the business might have had at one time and is now efficient only in taking money without delivering product. I’d like to get the wow& flutter back within reasonable tolerances so I can keep enjoying this deck, but I don’t know where to turn for service or (dare I say it) DIY replacement of the belt by sourcing parts myself. I am reasonably handy, and am replacing the burned out DOLBY and VU meter lamps myself, but the belt takes things to a whole different level in terms of nuance and subtle details. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2022 22:56:57 +0000 (UTC) From: Glenn Stasky via Naktalk To: "naktalk at lists.naks.com" Subject: Re: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 Message-ID: <1719703203.981287.1643065017969 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Steve, Welcome to the group. The early Nak decks are difficult to find parts for. I used to work for Nakamichi in the 1980's. Great times. I bought a ZX-9 through their employee purchase program in 1985. I still have it and it runs perfectlythanks to Willy Hermann. It actually performs better than new. I heard that there is a source for tape belts here: https://www.vintage-electronics.net/nakamichi-500-belt-kit.aspx I know nothing about their quality, but it is worth a look. The durometer, thickness and elasticity of a belt contribute to its performance. Let us know how the 500 belt search goes. Good luck Glenn -----Original Message----- From: Steve Sabin via Naktalk To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Sent: Mon, Jan 24, 2022 1:57 pm Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 I am new to these lists, so kindly bear with me as I learn and begin interacting. I am currently in the process of getting my Nak 500 back into shape and have some questions about belts. I am replacing two burned out lamps myself. Below is some background color commentary followed by my questions. I have no appetite to do the service myself, but am headed that direction only because I cannot find a reputable service provider that is willing to do it. I fully understand that they have a reputation to maintain and they don’t want to deliver an inferior refurbishment caused by items outside their control (sub-standard parts). Having everything work to pristine, as-new specs is less important to me than the sentimental value of this deck, but I would like it to be at least listenable. Right now, it is wholly unlistenable. *****BACKGROUND*****I am the original owner of a Nakamichi 500 (s/n 3528686). It was purchased in Dec 1977 at a local stereo boutique in the Pacific Northwest. I have packed it with me all of these years through about 15 moves across states and even across international boundaries. It holds a lot of sentimental value even though I am sure there are superior sounding Nak and non-Nak decks with 3 heads instead of 2, metal tape capabilities, Dolby C instead of Dolby B, etc. I saved for an entire summer working on a ranch to buy this deck as part of my “dream system” consisting of a Sony TA-5650 integrated amp with V-FET power transistors, Sonab OD-11 speakers, Dual 501 turntable, Grace cartridge, and the Nak 500 to capture the pristine vinyl directly from the shrink wrap onto tape (usually TDK-SA) and then put the vinyl back in the sleeve. The whole assemblage cost me $1600 in 1977 and I have never for one millisecond had any buyer’s remorse. A friend gave me an old Harman-Kardon ST2000 tuner that has never worked all that great, but brought in passably good FM stereo back in the day. I rarely listen to the radio these days and most of the music on that system is from a CD Player (Sony CDP-590) or streaming from my Apple TV. When I got the CD player, my reliance on vinyl and cassettes rapidly diminished. I bought CDs for most everything in my vinyl collection except for those that were unavailable like a few direct-to-disk titles that have phenomenal fidelity. *****LAMPS*****I am in the process of replacing the lamps on the Nak 500 and was able to find the original 12Vdc 25mA incandescents for the REC and DOLBY indicators on eBay as Radio Shack p/n 272-1141. The bulb diameters are identical (4.7mm) and the only difference from the factory originals is the lead colors (blue/white incumbent lamps from factory versus red/white in the 272-1141s). For the VU meters, I also wanted to go with incandescents rather than LEDs because I just like the retro-vibe that the incandescent hue lends. I have been working with Dave Wojnarowski (dgwojo.com/) out of Michigan to help me with the replacement lamps for the VU meters (7381 lamps with bi-pin base). *****BELT*****I was having issues with the play button staying depressed (was constantly triggering the auto-shutoff) and so I took the deck to a repair shop, run by a guy in his 70s who I assumed would be fluent in this older 70s-era gear. He fixed the issue with the play button, but decided to replace the belts while he was in there. I had no idea the results would be so unpalatable. There were no discernable wow & flutter issues when I dropped off the deck. When I picked it up, it sounded awful – basically unlistenable. I had no idea a belt was so critical. *****QUESTIONS*****Q1) I’m looking for resources that help me understand the physics of why the belt is so crucial. As I understand it, the motor poles introduce tiny torsional fluctuations in speed that are smoothed out by the rotational inertia of the flywheel and by the damping effect of the belt that want to keep everything moving at the same speed rather than respond to every miniscule fluctuation of the motor. But I’d like to understand this better and what separates a good belt (like the original in the unit) from a crappy belt (like the “replacement” in there now). Q2) I reached out to Willy Hermann and also ES Labs, but neither one wants to work on the Nak 500 anymore due to the lack of good quality replacement parts. I was momentarily optimistic when I read about belts from Fred Marrs, but then quickly realized his daughter has basically destroyed whatever credibility the business might have had at one time and is now efficient only in taking money without delivering product. I’d like to get the wow& flutter back within reasonable tolerances so I can keep enjoying this deck, but I don’t know where to turn for service or (dare I say it) DIY replacement of the belt by sourcing parts myself. I am reasonably handy, and am replacing the burned out DOLBY and VU meter lamps myself, but the belt takes things to a whole different level in terms of nuance and subtle details. ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2022 19:40:43 -0500 From: Ramachandran Ram via Naktalk To: Steve Sabin , Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Subject: Re: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 Message-ID: <20024583-FF46-4277-B81F-8C59D5795D6F at yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I had my 550 done over by Dan Barham aka NakmanDan who is from Chicago. The deck sounds great. However he didn’t replace its original belt as they’re unobtainable to go with this deck. Pm me at 5169936025 and I shall give you his contact. Ram. > On Jan 24, 2022, at 5:22 PM, Steve Sabin via Naktalk wrote: > > I am new to these lists, so kindly bear with me as I learn and begin interacting. I am currently in the process of getting my Nak 500 back into shape and have some questions about belts. I am replacing two burned out lamps myself. Below is some background color commentary followed by my questions. I have no appetite to do the service myself, but am headed that direction only because I cannot find a reputable service provider that is willing to do it. I fully understand that they have a reputation to maintain and they don’t want to deliver an inferior refurbishment caused by items outside their control (sub-standard parts). Having everything work to pristine, as-new specs is less important to me than the sentimental value of this deck, but I would like it to be at least listenable. Right now, it is wholly unlistenable. > > *****BACKGROUND***** > I am the original owner of a Nakamichi 500 (s/n 3528686). It was purchased in Dec 1977 at a local stereo boutique in the Pacific Northwest. I have packed it with me all of these years through about 15 moves across states and even across international boundaries. It holds a lot of sentimental value even though I am sure there are superior sounding Nak and non-Nak decks with 3 heads instead of 2, metal tape capabilities, Dolby C instead of Dolby B, etc. I saved for an entire summer working on a ranch to buy this deck as part of my “dream system” consisting of a Sony TA-5650 integrated amp with V-FET power transistors, Sonab OD-11 speakers, Dual 501 turntable, Grace cartridge, and the Nak 500 to capture the pristine vinyl directly from the shrink wrap onto tape (usually TDK-SA) and then put the vinyl back in the sleeve. The whole assemblage cost me $1600 in 1977 and I have never for one millisecond had any buyer’s remorse. A friend gave me an old Harman-Kardon ST2000 tuner that has never worked all that great, but brought in passably good FM stereo back in the day. I rarely listen to the radio these days and most of the music on that system is from a CD Player (Sony CDP-590) or streaming from my Apple TV. When I got the CD player, my reliance on vinyl and cassettes rapidly diminished. I bought CDs for most everything in my vinyl collection except for those that were unavailable like a few direct-to-disk titles that have phenomenal fidelity. > > *****LAMPS***** > I am in the process of replacing the lamps on the Nak 500 and was able to find the original 12Vdc 25mA incandescents for the REC and DOLBY indicators on eBay as Radio Shack p/n 272-1141. The bulb diameters are identical (4.7mm) and the only difference from the factory originals is the lead colors (blue/white incumbent lamps from factory versus red/white in the 272-1141s). For the VU meters, I also wanted to go with incandescents rather than LEDs because I just like the retro-vibe that the incandescent hue lends. I have been working with Dave Wojnarowski (dgwojo.com/) out of Michigan to help me with the replacement lamps for the VU meters (7381 lamps with bi-pin base). > > *****BELT***** > I was having issues with the play button staying depressed (was constantly triggering the auto-shutoff) and so I took the deck to a repair shop, run by a guy in his 70s who I assumed would be fluent in this older 70s-era gear. He fixed the issue with the play button, but decided to replace the belts while he was in there. I had no idea the results would be so unpalatable. There were no discernable wow & flutter issues when I dropped off the deck. When I picked it up, it sounded awful – basically unlistenable. I had no idea a belt was so critical. > > *****QUESTIONS***** > Q1) I’m looking for resources that help me understand the physics of why the belt is so crucial. As I understand it, the motor poles introduce tiny torsional fluctuations in speed that are smoothed out by the rotational inertia of the flywheel and by the damping effect of the belt that want to keep everything moving at the same speed rather than respond to every miniscule fluctuation of the motor. But I’d like to understand this better and what separates a good belt (like the original in the unit) from a crappy belt (like the “replacement” in there now). > > Q2) I reached out to Willy Hermann and also ES Labs, but neither one wants to work on the Nak 500 anymore due to the lack of good quality replacement parts. I was momentarily optimistic when I read about belts from Fred Marrs, but then quickly realized his daughter has basically destroyed whatever credibility the business might have had at one time and is now efficient only in taking money without delivering product. I’d like to get the wow& flutter back within reasonable tolerances so I can keep enjoying this deck, but I don’t know where to turn for service or (dare I say it) DIY replacement of the belt by sourcing parts myself. I am reasonably handy, and am replacing the burned out DOLBY and VU meter lamps myself, but the belt takes things to a whole different level in terms of nuance and subtle details. > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2022 07:09:50 +0000 From: "G. Fisher via Naktalk" To: Steve Sabin , Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Subject: Re: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Steve, what an exceptionally well written post. I can really empathise with your situation and your hifi journey, there are so many similarities to mine. I keep trying to breathe life into my Nakamichi 480 because it was the first Nak that I saved all my hard earned junior wages for in 1985, purchasing it second hand for $350 Australian dollars when I was earning about $100 a week at the time. I have 'better' Naks now but I will do my utmost to avoid turning my 480 into a parts deck, we've been on a very long journey together. Irrational? Undoubtedly, but that's the power of sentiment for you. Wishing you all the best with your repairs and restoration. Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: Steve Sabin via Naktalk Date: 25/1/22 9:22 am (GMT+10:00) To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 I am new to these lists, so kindly bear with me as I learn and begin interacting. I am currently in the process of getting my Nak 500 back into shape and have some questions about belts. I am replacing two burned out lamps myself. Below is some background color commentary followed by my questions. I have no appetite to do the service myself, but am headed that direction only because I cannot find a reputable service provider that is willing to do it. I fully understand that they have a reputation to maintain and they don’t want to deliver an inferior refurbishment caused by items outside their control (sub-standard parts). Having everything work to pristine, as-new specs is less important to me than the sentimental value of this deck, but I would like it to be at least listenable. Right now, it is wholly unlistenable. *****BACKGROUND***** I am the original owner of a Nakamichi 500 (s/n 3528686). It was purchased in Dec 1977 at a local stereo boutique in the Pacific Northwest. I have packed it with me all of these years through about 15 moves across states and even across international boundaries. It holds a lot of sentimental value even though I am sure there are superior sounding Nak and non-Nak decks with 3 heads instead of 2, metal tape capabilities, Dolby C instead of Dolby B, etc. I saved for an entire summer working on a ranch to buy this deck as part of my “dream system” consisting of a Sony TA-5650 integrated amp with V-FET power transistors, Sonab OD-11 speakers, Dual 501 turntable, Grace cartridge, and the Nak 500 to capture the pristine vinyl directly from the shrink wrap onto tape (usually TDK-SA) and then put the vinyl back in the sleeve. The whole assemblage cost me $1600 in 1977 and I have never for one millisecond had any buyer’s remorse. A friend gave me an old Harman-Kardon ST2000 tuner that has never worked all that great, but brought in passably good FM stereo back in the day. I rarely listen to the radio these days and most of the music on that system is from a CD Player (Sony CDP-590) or streaming from my Apple TV. When I got the CD player, my reliance on vinyl and cassettes rapidly diminished. I bought CDs for most everything in my vinyl collection except for those that were unavailable like a few direct-to-disk titles that have phenomenal fidelity. *****LAMPS***** I am in the process of replacing the lamps on the Nak 500 and was able to find the original 12Vdc 25mA incandescents for the REC and DOLBY indicators on eBay as Radio Shack p/n 272-1141. The bulb diameters are identical (4.7mm) and the only difference from the factory originals is the lead colors (blue/white incumbent lamps from factory versus red/white in the 272-1141s). For the VU meters, I also wanted to go with incandescents rather than LEDs because I just like the retro-vibe that the incandescent hue lends. I have been working with Dave Wojnarowski (dgwojo.com/) out of Michigan to help me with the replacement lamps for the VU meters (7381 lamps with bi-pin base). *****BELT***** I was having issues with the play button staying depressed (was constantly triggering the auto-shutoff) and so I took the deck to a repair shop, run by a guy in his 70s who I assumed would be fluent in this older 70s-era gear. He fixed the issue with the play button, but decided to replace the belts while he was in there. I had no idea the results would be so unpalatable. There were no discernable wow & flutter issues when I dropped off the deck. When I picked it up, it sounded awful – basically unlistenable. I had no idea a belt was so critical. *****QUESTIONS***** Q1) I’m looking for resources that help me understand the physics of why the belt is so crucial. As I understand it, the motor poles introduce tiny torsional fluctuations in speed that are smoothed out by the rotational inertia of the flywheel and by the damping effect of the belt that want to keep everything moving at the same speed rather than respond to every miniscule fluctuation of the motor. But I’d like to understand this better and what separates a good belt (like the original in the unit) from a crappy belt (like the “replacement” in there now). Q2) I reached out to Willy Hermann and also ES Labs, but neither one wants to work on the Nak 500 anymore due to the lack of good quality replacement parts. I was momentarily optimistic when I read about belts from Fred Marrs, but then quickly realized his daughter has basically destroyed whatever credibility the business might have had at one time and is now efficient only in taking money without delivering product. I’d like to get the wow& flutter back within reasonable tolerances so I can keep enjoying this deck, but I don’t know where to turn for service or (dare I say it) DIY replacement of the belt by sourcing parts myself. I am reasonably handy, and am replacing the burned out DOLBY and VU meter lamps myself, but the belt takes things to a whole different level in terms of nuance and subtle details. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Register your Nak today! http://www.naks.com/register ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= ------------------------------ End of Naktalk Digest, Vol 224, Issue 11 **************************************** From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Jan 25 14:15:26 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (john kojic via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2022 13:15:26 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 In-Reply-To: <03DCE2F2-F542-4AD4-9401-D61F876B28CE@gmail.com> References: <03DCE2F2-F542-4AD4-9401-D61F876B28CE@gmail.com> Message-ID: hi-below is a very good belt and tires- i have used both on 550 - the studio kit includes pinch roller but it did not work- https://www.sofh.it/products/nakamichi/nak-550/nak-550-belt_kit-2/ for a belt to perform properly is- tight enough to not w&f but loose enough not to ruin bearings ________________________________ From: Naktalk on behalf of Steve Sabin via Naktalk Sent: 24 January 2022 21:57 To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 I am new to these lists, so kindly bear with me as I learn and begin interacting. I am currently in the process of getting my Nak 500 back into shape and have some questions about belts. I am replacing two burned out lamps myself. Below is some background color commentary followed by my questions. I have no appetite to do the service myself, but am headed that direction only because I cannot find a reputable service provider that is willing to do it. I fully understand that they have a reputation to maintain and they don’t want to deliver an inferior refurbishment caused by items outside their control (sub-standard parts). Having everything work to pristine, as-new specs is less important to me than the sentimental value of this deck, but I would like it to be at least listenable. Right now, it is wholly unlistenable. *****BACKGROUND***** I am the original owner of a Nakamichi 500 (s/n 3528686). It was purchased in Dec 1977 at a local stereo boutique in the Pacific Northwest. I have packed it with me all of these years through about 15 moves across states and even across international boundaries. It holds a lot of sentimental value even though I am sure there are superior sounding Nak and non-Nak decks with 3 heads instead of 2, metal tape capabilities, Dolby C instead of Dolby B, etc. I saved for an entire summer working on a ranch to buy this deck as part of my “dream system” consisting of a Sony TA-5650 integrated amp with V-FET power transistors, Sonab OD-11 speakers, Dual 501 turntable, Grace cartridge, and the Nak 500 to capture the pristine vinyl directly from the shrink wrap onto tape (usually TDK-SA) and then put the vinyl back in the sleeve. The whole assemblage cost me $1600 in 1977 and I have never for one millisecond had any buyer’s remorse. A friend gave me an old Harman-Kardon ST2000 tuner that has never worked all that great, but brought in passably good FM stereo back in the day. I rarely listen to the radio these days and most of the music on that system is from a CD Player (Sony CDP-590) or streaming from my Apple TV. When I got the CD player, my reliance on vinyl and cassettes rapidly diminished. I bought CDs for most everything in my vinyl collection except for those that were unavailable like a few direct-to-disk titles that have phenomenal fidelity. *****LAMPS***** I am in the process of replacing the lamps on the Nak 500 and was able to find the original 12Vdc 25mA incandescents for the REC and DOLBY indicators on eBay as Radio Shack p/n 272-1141. The bulb diameters are identical (4.7mm) and the only difference from the factory originals is the lead colors (blue/white incumbent lamps from factory versus red/white in the 272-1141s). For the VU meters, I also wanted to go with incandescents rather than LEDs because I just like the retro-vibe that the incandescent hue lends. I have been working with Dave Wojnarowski (dgwojo.com/) out of Michigan to help me with the replacement lamps for the VU meters (7381 lamps with bi-pin base). *****BELT***** I was having issues with the play button staying depressed (was constantly triggering the auto-shutoff) and so I took the deck to a repair shop, run by a guy in his 70s who I assumed would be fluent in this older 70s-era gear. He fixed the issue with the play button, but decided to replace the belts while he was in there. I had no idea the results would be so unpalatable. There were no discernable wow & flutter issues when I dropped off the deck. When I picked it up, it sounded awful – basically unlistenable. I had no idea a belt was so critical. *****QUESTIONS***** Q1) I’m looking for resources that help me understand the physics of why the belt is so crucial. As I understand it, the motor poles introduce tiny torsional fluctuations in speed that are smoothed out by the rotational inertia of the flywheel and by the damping effect of the belt that want to keep everything moving at the same speed rather than respond to every miniscule fluctuation of the motor. But I’d like to understand this better and what separates a good belt (like the original in the unit) from a crappy belt (like the “replacement” in there now). Q2) I reached out to Willy Hermann and also ES Labs, but neither one wants to work on the Nak 500 anymore due to the lack of good quality replacement parts. I was momentarily optimistic when I read about belts from Fred Marrs, but then quickly realized his daughter has basically destroyed whatever credibility the business might have had at one time and is now efficient only in taking money without delivering product. I’d like to get the wow& flutter back within reasonable tolerances so I can keep enjoying this deck, but I don’t know where to turn for service or (dare I say it) DIY replacement of the belt by sourcing parts myself. I am reasonably handy, and am replacing the burned out DOLBY and VU meter lamps myself, but the belt takes things to a whole different level in terms of nuance and subtle details. [https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif] Virus-free. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Jan 25 16:56:11 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Kevin Fetner via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2022 15:56:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 References: <1096460541.929052.1643126171385.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1096460541.929052.1643126171385@mail.yahoo.com> Steve,I have to say, I was in your shoes in the not so recent past. I was adamant that using a top tier receiver from the 70's was 'as good as' separates'. However, anybody that has made the leap to decent separates knows that's just a myth about receivers. And so it's the same analogy for the cassette decks. Moreover, you're further crippling yourself by sentimentality and a deck that's unfavorable to repair. I had the opportunity to buy a couple of original Nak 1000 decks. I thought, 'Wouldn't it be cool to own the deck that started the talk about quality stereo cassettes and thumbed its nose at RTR?'  Well, the reality is no, it's not cool and the decks are outdated and unreasonably repairable for the expense involved. Willy and ESL are trying to tell you something with your 500, pay attention. Most of us who bought systems in the 70's( and even 80's) had the intention of continuing to upgrade when our circumstances allowed. However, a lot of the time with kids and life, those circumstances never happened. So if you've held onto that 'mid-fi' system all these yrs, you've grown sentimental. But is it really worth keeping and repairing against other gear that's also used, but at a significantly higher level than your 'mid-fi' stuff? Only you can answer the question along with how much effort and $$$$ are you willing to spend. You also have to consider how much TIME you'll devote to audio. When I was younger I seemed to have much more time to devote to stereo listening. From middle age on, I was under the delusion that if I upgraded everything, I'd make the time to listen more to stereo. The truth is that after thousands spent restoring and upgrading, I'm not giving the system the time it deserves. So maybe in your case, finding a working BX300 that has been restored would be exactly what you need and you could quit there. You don't really say what your 'goals' are? Are you at a point in your life where you want to pursue higher quality musical reproduction or are you completely happy with the sound your 'mid-fi' produced? In any event, I think your venture to maintain and restore the 500 is a trip down the rabbit hole, especially if you can find someone to pay for restoring it. You have virtually nothing to lose if you educate yourself and try to fix it....It doesn't work now. It's tough letting go of gear that we once thought was great....I can empathize.   Kevin    -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Jan 25 18:59:06 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Steve Sabin via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2022 09:59:06 -0800 Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 In-Reply-To: <1096460541.929052.1643126171385@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1096460541.929052.1643126171385@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have had most of the same thoughts so you are echoing many of my own sentiments. HiFi is - in my opinion - very logarithmic in terms of cost versus quality. Spending 10X doesn’t mean sound that is even 2X as good - it often means a couple percent better or simply bragging rights for the most expensive gear. At this stage of my life, that old system is “good enough” and I have no appetite to start buying up tube amps and other esoteric high-end gear now that I can afford more than my high school self could those many decades ago. I don’t really have the time anymore to sit and enjoy music like I could in college when I’d study for 10-12 hours at a time with my favorite music filling the apartment. My goals are simply to have a deck that plays back my dwindling tape collection at reasonable fidelity and to have a Nak 500 that powers up and looks nice as eye Candy even if it can no longer play tapes acceptably. This might well mean two decks: one for sentimental satisfaction and one to play a dozen or so cassettes on. I’m not willing to spend thousands restoring a 1972 Ford Pinto so it can become my daily driver. I’m simply trying to avoid reinventing the wheel if others can point me in the right direction for a decent belt and explain what qualities make a belt perform as intended versus falling short of the mark. If I have to spend more than $500-750 on this deck, I’ll punt and just live with it as is while buying something that works in the same price range. I.e., a Nakamichi dragon isn’t part of my future. It’s really more about having a car I can start up reliably on the weekends and drive to the local park and back than a car that I can take on extended road trips or commute with daily - if that analogy makes sense. And it doesn’t have to be a car that wins competitions - just one that starts and runs without backfiring a few times per month. -- Steve Sabin > On Jan 25, 2022, at 8:28 AM, Kevin Fetner via Naktalk wrote: > >  > Steve, > I have to say, I was in your shoes in the not so recent past. I was adamant that using a top tier receiver from the 70's was 'as good as' separates'. However, anybody that has made the leap to decent separates knows that's just a myth about receivers. And so it's the same analogy for the cassette decks. Moreover, you're further crippling yourself by sentimentality and a deck that's unfavorable to repair. I had the opportunity to buy a couple of original Nak 1000 decks. I thought, 'Wouldn't it be cool to own the deck that started the talk about quality stereo cassettes and thumbed its nose at RTR?' Well, the reality is no, it's not cool and the decks are outdated and unreasonably repairable for the expense involved. Willy and ESL are trying to tell you something with your 500, pay attention. > > Most of us who bought systems in the 70's( and even 80's) had the intention of continuing to upgrade when our circumstances allowed. However, a lot of the time with kids and life, those circumstances never happened. So if you've held onto that 'mid-fi' system all these yrs, you've grown sentimental. But is it really worth keeping and repairing against other gear that's also used, but at a significantly higher level than your 'mid-fi' stuff? Only you can answer the question along with how much effort and $$$$ are you willing to spend. > > You also have to consider how much TIME you'll devote to audio. When I was younger I seemed to have much more time to devote to stereo listening. From middle age on, I was under the delusion that if I upgraded everything, I'd make the time to listen more to stereo. The truth is that after thousands spent restoring and upgrading, I'm not giving the system the time it deserves. So maybe in your case, finding a working BX300 that has been restored would be exactly what you need and you could quit there. > > You don't really say what your 'goals' are? Are you at a point in your life where you want to pursue higher quality musical reproduction or are you completely happy with the sound your 'mid-fi' produced? In any event, I think your venture to maintain and restore the 500 is a trip down the rabbit hole, especially if you can find someone to pay for restoring it. You have virtually nothing to lose if you educate yourself and try to fix it....It doesn't work now. It's tough letting go of gear that we once thought was great....I can empathize. > > > Kevin > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Jan 25 19:19:29 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Daniel Botelho via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2022 13:19:29 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Jan 25 19:30:47 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Thomas R via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2022 13:30:47 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 In-Reply-To: References: <1096460541.929052.1643126171385@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Steve , I recommend getting a used Luxman K-100 or K-111 deck so you can play your tapes again . I’ve had 5 of them , paid 40 to 70 dollars for them , sold 2 to a local HiFi shop because they had customers that wanted decks . Only 1 of the 5 stopped working , they are super dependable machines ! And … I think the repair guy you took your Nak 500 to , put in a drive belt that was too tight . Ask him if he has a slightly longer belt to put in it . Tom R. On Tue, Jan 25, 2022 at 1:01 PM Steve Sabin via Naktalk < naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > I have had most of the same thoughts so you are echoing many of my own > sentiments. HiFi is - in my opinion - very logarithmic in terms of cost > versus quality. Spending 10X doesn’t mean sound that is even 2X as good - > it often means a couple percent better or simply bragging rights for the > most expensive gear. At this stage of my life, that old system is “good > enough” and I have no appetite to start buying up tube amps and other > esoteric high-end gear now that I can afford more than my high school self > could those many decades ago. I don’t really have the time anymore to sit > and enjoy music like I could in college when I’d study for 10-12 hours at a > time with my favorite music filling the apartment. > > My goals are simply to have a deck that plays back my dwindling tape > collection at reasonable fidelity and to have a Nak 500 that powers up and > looks nice as eye Candy even if it can no longer play tapes acceptably. > This might well mean two decks: one for sentimental satisfaction and one to > play a dozen or so cassettes on. I’m not willing to spend thousands > restoring a 1972 Ford Pinto so it can become my daily driver. I’m simply > trying to avoid reinventing the wheel if others can point me in the right > direction for a decent belt and explain what qualities make a belt perform > as intended versus falling short of the mark. If I have to spend more than > $500-750 on this deck, I’ll punt and just live with it as is while buying > something that works in the same price range. I.e., a Nakamichi dragon > isn’t part of my future. It’s really more about having a car I can start up > reliably on the weekends and drive to the local park and back than a car > that I can take on extended road trips or commute with daily - if that > analogy makes sense. And it doesn’t have to be a car that wins competitions > - just one that starts and runs without backfiring a few times per month. > > -- Steve Sabin > > On Jan 25, 2022, at 8:28 AM, Kevin Fetner via Naktalk < > naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > >  > Steve, > I have to say, I was in your shoes in the not so recent past. I was > adamant that using a top tier receiver from the 70's was 'as good as' > separates'. However, anybody that has made the leap to decent separates > knows that's just a myth about receivers. And so it's the same analogy for > the cassette decks. Moreover, you're further crippling yourself by > sentimentality and a deck that's unfavorable to repair. I had the > opportunity to buy a couple of original Nak 1000 decks. I thought, > 'Wouldn't it be cool to own the deck that started the talk about quality > stereo cassettes and thumbed its nose at RTR?' Well, the reality is no, > it's not cool and the decks are outdated and unreasonably repairable for > the expense involved. Willy and ESL are trying to tell you something with > your 500, pay attention. > > Most of us who bought systems in the 70's( and even 80's) had the > intention of continuing to upgrade when our circumstances allowed. However, > a lot of the time with kids and life, those circumstances never happened. > So if you've held onto that 'mid-fi' system all these yrs, you've grown > sentimental. But is it really worth keeping and repairing against other > gear that's also used, but at a significantly higher level than your > 'mid-fi' stuff? Only you can answer the question along with how much effort > and $$$$ are you willing to spend. > > You also have to consider how much TIME you'll devote to audio. When I was > younger I seemed to have much more time to devote to stereo listening. From > middle age on, I was under the delusion that if I upgraded everything, I'd > make the time to listen more to stereo. The truth is that after thousands > spent restoring and upgrading, I'm not giving the system the time it > deserves. So maybe in your case, finding a working BX300 that has been > restored would be exactly what you need and you could quit there. > > You don't really say what your 'goals' are? Are you at a point in your > life where you want to pursue higher quality musical reproduction or are > you completely happy with the sound your 'mid-fi' produced? In any event, I > think your venture to maintain and restore the 500 is a trip down the > rabbit hole, especially if you can find someone to pay for restoring it. > You have virtually nothing to lose if you educate yourself and try to fix > it....It doesn't work now. It's tough letting go of gear that we once > thought was great....I can empathize. > > > Kevin > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Wed Jan 26 16:38:24 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Kevin Fetner via Naktalk) Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2022 15:38:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 References: <1459353911.1352199.1643211504567.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1459353911.1352199.1643211504567@mail.yahoo.com> Steve,I offered up the idea of a BX300 for a couple of reasons. It's more modern than the 500. As of at least 5yrs ago, it was still being restored and talked about favorably here in Naktalk. However, I have no idea how much one goes for, fully restored. You could do an ask here for one....ya never know. Private sales would delete eBays fees and taxes. Honestly, your cheapest route is to replace all the rubber in your deck and maybe the electronics will hold. Naks are like Ferrari's in that they demand to be used. Naks that sit in closets or bear the ubiquitous banner of, "It worked the last time I used it" are mostly troublesome until sorted.  Kevin -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Wed Jan 26 16:59:31 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (ricktrumpetman via Naktalk) Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2022 10:59:31 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 In-Reply-To: <1459353911.1352199.1643211504567@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1854072054.90344.1643212774317@aol.com> I'll speak to both the audio quality and resilience of the venerable BX-300.  They sound great and are comparatively easy to maintain.  The marketplace for all things Nak appears to me to be at an all time high, but once you own a well maintained example, one's perspective on that changes a little.  Best Regards,Dwight PriceSent via the Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Kevin Fetner via Naktalk Date: 1/26/22 10:40 AM (GMT-05:00) To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Subject: Re: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 Steve,I offered up the idea of a BX300 for a couple of reasons. It's more modern than the 500. As of at least 5yrs ago, it was still being restored and talked about favorably here in Naktalk. However, I have no idea how much one goes for, fully restored. You could do an ask here for one....ya never know. Private sales would delete eBays fees and taxes. Honestly, your cheapest route is to replace all the rubber in your deck and maybe the electronics will hold. Naks are like Ferrari's in that they demand to be used. Naks that sit in closets or bear the ubiquitous banner of, "It worked the last time I used it" are mostly troublesome until sorted.  Kevin -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Wed Jan 26 19:40:23 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Roland via Naktalk) Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2022 13:40:23 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 In-Reply-To: <1854072054.90344.1643212774317@aol.com> References: <1854072054.90344.1643212774317@aol.com> Message-ID: <0250d580-1bd2-fdff-6d1b-cbc73f710f1d@verizon.net> Back in the day, I went to Tech HiFi and compared the BX300 and a Dragon at the insistence of the salesman.  While the Dragon ($2400) trounced the BX300 (around $500), I used and loved the BX300 for many years. Not knowing that the rw/fwd ills were caused by a simple idler tire, I threw the deck out after a few years.  Yup, I can the gasps from this crowd!  LOL I own two Dragons and a 600.  I've often thought about getting another BX300 just for the collection. It is an admirable deck. On 1/26/2022 10:59 AM, ricktrumpetman via Naktalk wrote: > I'll speak to both the audio quality and resilience of the venerable > BX-300.  They sound great and are comparatively easy to maintain. > > The marketplace for all things Nak appears to me to be at an all time > high, but once you own a well maintained example, one's perspective on > that changes a little. > > Best Regards, > > Dwight Price > > > > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Kevin Fetner via Naktalk > Date: 1/26/22 10:40 AM (GMT-05:00) > To: naktalk at lists.naks.com > Subject: Re: [naktalk] Belts and related questions for Nakamichi 500 > > Steve, > I offered up the idea of a BX300 for a couple of reasons. It's more > modern than the 500. As of at least 5yrs ago, it was still being > restored and talked about favorably here in Naktalk. However, I have > no idea how much one goes for, fully restored. > > You could do an ask /here/ for one....ya never know. Private sales > would delete eBays fees and taxes. Honestly, your cheapest route is to > replace all the rubber in your deck and maybe the electronics will > hold. Naks are like Ferrari's in that they demand to be used. Naks > that sit in closets or bear the ubiquitous banner of, "It worked the > last time I used it" are mostly troublesome until sorted. > > Kevin > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki!http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here:http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Feb 6 14:30:59 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Steve Sabin via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2022 05:30:59 -0800 Subject: [naktalk] Oil and belts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8F39BEB5-12C6-4A43-9AED-4E63087D0ECA@gmail.com> I have my Nak 500 open and have successfully replaced all 6 bulbs (4 x VU meter lamps + 1 x REC lamp + 1 x Dolby lamp). Now, to check the main belt and lubrication. What oil do others use? The Nak 500 service manual says “light machine oil - Mobil DTE or equivalent” but there are numerous grades of Mobil DTE when I look online. DTE “light” corresponds to a viscosity of ISO 32. Sewing machine oil might be too light as it appears to have a viscosity of ISO 15 of less. What oil do those of you who are service techs for these machines use? And, who can recommend a reputable belt supplier? Marrs is apparently out of business. Does anyone know the actual original OEM belt dimensions for this machine? Would a belt that is too tight explain the wow and flutter I am experiencing? This machine has a spring-tensioned idler pulley and it seems like that gives the belt a relatively constant tension. -- Steve Sabin From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Feb 6 16:56:53 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Thomas R via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2022 10:56:53 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Oil and belts In-Reply-To: <8F39BEB5-12C6-4A43-9AED-4E63087D0ECA@gmail.com> References: <8F39BEB5-12C6-4A43-9AED-4E63087D0ECA@gmail.com> Message-ID: Steve , I have replaced belts on my Nak 600’s and made a mistake once when replacing the bracket with the thrust bearing that touches the flywheel capstan unit . I didn’t get it to go into the exact center of the flywheel when i put the bracket back on . I think that caused a lot of wow and flutter until I took it back apart and correctly aligned it . Is the transport on your 500 the same way with a thrust bearing and bracket ? Also a drop of oil or dab of grease on that bearing area would be a good idea . Tom R. On Sun, Feb 6, 2022 at 10:02 AM Steve Sabin via Naktalk < naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > I have my Nak 500 open and have successfully replaced all 6 bulbs (4 x VU > meter lamps + 1 x REC lamp + 1 x Dolby lamp). Now, to check the main belt > and lubrication. > > What oil do others use? The Nak 500 service manual says “light machine > oil - Mobil DTE or equivalent” but there are numerous grades of Mobil DTE > when I look online. DTE “light” corresponds to a viscosity of ISO 32. > Sewing machine oil might be too light as it appears to have a viscosity of > ISO 15 of less. What oil do those of you who are service techs for these > machines use? > > And, who can recommend a reputable belt supplier? Marrs is apparently out > of business. Does anyone know the actual original OEM belt dimensions for > this machine? > > Would a belt that is too tight explain the wow and flutter I am > experiencing? This machine has a spring-tensioned idler pulley and it > seems like that gives the belt a relatively constant tension. > > -- Steve Sabin > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Feb 6 18:29:38 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Tom Brucker via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2022 11:29:38 -0600 Subject: [naktalk] Oil and belts In-Reply-To: References: <8F39BEB5-12C6-4A43-9AED-4E63087D0ECA@gmail.com> Message-ID: The thrust bearing is set so the flywheel just moves vertically 0.2mm. Any light oil is ok. Belt is fry10.2 or fs10.2. Reel table tires are sbl3.4 or sl3.4. My last supplier was consolidated electronics in Ohio, usa. Wow and flutter is usually caused by a worn reel idler with the off white plastic arm. Bearings wore out allowing the idler pulley to wobble. Nak improved tbe part and switched to an aluminum arm. On Sun, Feb 6, 2022, 9:57 AM Thomas R via Naktalk wrote: > Steve , I have replaced belts on my Nak 600’s and made a mistake once when > replacing the bracket with the thrust bearing that touches the flywheel > capstan unit . I didn’t get it to go into the exact center of the flywheel > when i put the bracket back on . I think that caused a lot of wow and > flutter until I took it back apart and correctly aligned it . Is the > transport on your 500 the same way with a thrust bearing and bracket ? Also > a drop of oil or dab of grease on that bearing area would be a good idea . > Tom R. > > On Sun, Feb 6, 2022 at 10:02 AM Steve Sabin via Naktalk < > naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > >> I have my Nak 500 open and have successfully replaced all 6 bulbs (4 x VU >> meter lamps + 1 x REC lamp + 1 x Dolby lamp). Now, to check the main belt >> and lubrication. >> >> What oil do others use? The Nak 500 service manual says “light machine >> oil - Mobil DTE or equivalent” but there are numerous grades of Mobil DTE >> when I look online. DTE “light” corresponds to a viscosity of ISO 32. >> Sewing machine oil might be too light as it appears to have a viscosity of >> ISO 15 of less. What oil do those of you who are service techs for these >> machines use? >> >> And, who can recommend a reputable belt supplier? Marrs is apparently >> out of business. Does anyone know the actual original OEM belt dimensions >> for this machine? >> >> Would a belt that is too tight explain the wow and flutter I am >> experiencing? This machine has a spring-tensioned idler pulley and it >> seems like that gives the belt a relatively constant tension. >> >> -- Steve Sabin >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist >> Maintain your account here: >> http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Feb 6 22:29:19 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (thomas laurence via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2022 15:29:19 -0600 Subject: [naktalk] Oil and belts In-Reply-To: <8F39BEB5-12C6-4A43-9AED-4E63087D0ECA@gmail.com> References: <8F39BEB5-12C6-4A43-9AED-4E63087D0ECA@gmail.com> Message-ID: Steve, For what it's worth: https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Belt-Kit-Nakamichi-500/dp/B0713TTRCD Tom On Sun, Feb 6, 2022 at 9:02 AM Steve Sabin via Naktalk < naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > I have my Nak 500 open and have successfully replaced all 6 bulbs (4 x VU > meter lamps + 1 x REC lamp + 1 x Dolby lamp). Now, to check the main belt > and lubrication. > > What oil do others use? The Nak 500 service manual says “light machine > oil - Mobil DTE or equivalent” but there are numerous grades of Mobil DTE > when I look online. DTE “light” corresponds to a viscosity of ISO 32. > Sewing machine oil might be too light as it appears to have a viscosity of > ISO 15 of less. What oil do those of you who are service techs for these > machines use? > > And, who can recommend a reputable belt supplier? Marrs is apparently out > of business. Does anyone know the actual original OEM belt dimensions for > this machine? > > Would a belt that is too tight explain the wow and flutter I am > experiencing? This machine has a spring-tensioned idler pulley and it > seems like that gives the belt a relatively constant tension. > > -- Steve Sabin > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 7 02:44:41 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2022 17:44:41 -0800 Subject: [naktalk] Oil and belts In-Reply-To: References: <8F39BEB5-12C6-4A43-9AED-4E63087D0ECA@gmail.com> Message-ID: <059f01d81bc4$4987b4c0$dc971e40$@gmail.com> Thomas (and others reading this thread), I think you are definitely on to something here! I am attaching some pictures of what I found, along with drawings from the original Nak service manual*. As you can see, the manual depicts a different assembly than the as-found assembly in my deck. Since I am the original owner, I know that this was not come kind of after-market modification and I suspect this went through a revision between the time the service manual was published and this deck was manufactured. My assembly, if I had to guess, probably represents a refinement to the design allowing much easier adjustment of the flywheel axial play (described as 0.1 to 0.5mm in the service manual). I can easily imagine someone on the manufacturing floor adjust the setscrew until the play was within those tolerances, tightening the locknut, and then adding a little squirt of threadlock cement. I don’t know if the photos will come through to the NakTalk list or only the text. My guess is that the server strips off attachments or perhaps even rejects the message entirely if anything is attached. If others on this thread know of a way to post pictures, let me know and I’ll do that for the benefit of everyone. If you cannot see the pictures, here is a verbal description in the meantime: 1. My thrust bearing is a plate with an adjustable setscrew. The capstan shaft and the flywheel form a sort of spinning top assembly. One end of the capstan shaft protrudes into the transport mechanism. The other end is attached to the flywheel and a very tiny “nub” of the shaft protrudes on the other side of the flywheel (the bottom side). It is this “nub” end of the capstan shaft that rides on the thrust bearing (i.e. the butt end of the adjustable setscrew). 2. This butt end has a small dimple in it – the result of 45 years of wear. It can be clearly seen in the photos. 3. I believe that before the machine was disassembled and reassembled, the capstan shaft was riding perfectly in this “dimple” or “crater”. After it was disassembled and reassembled, it would have been almost impossible to reinstall the flywheel bracket perfectly into it former location. 4. The capstan shaft was probably riding on the rim/edge of the dimple or crater. As it spun, it was slightly rising and falling with each capstan shaft revolution, resulting in the very audible wow and flutter I observed. One possible remedy is to get another setscrew. However, I don’t know the metallurgy and whether the butt end is just brass, or some kind of much harder material designed to endure wear. I imagine the forces are appreciable when focused over such a small area. The butt end of the capstan shaft is itself rounded, like a ball-point pen tip. Another possible remedy is to take the set screw to a machinist and very carefully shave off the end so it is again perfectly flat and without a dimple. To my eye, the dimple is probably 10-20 mils in depth. The problem, of course, it that this is going to have to be perfectly flat. If it has a slope, you are again going to have wow and flutter as the capstan shaft climbs and then descends the slope with each revolution or so. The last possible remedy is to try and align the shaft perfectly with the dimple once again, but the trial and error to do this seems well near impossible. I may try, but I am not optimistic. You simply cannot see during reassembly to confirm that the capstan shaft is lying perfectly in the dimple versus on the edge. Frankly, If I could get it well away from the dimple, that would also solve the issue as the shaft would again be resting on a flat spot. Perhaps I will try just adjust this setscrew 1/8th of a turn at a time to see if I can realign dimple with shaft once again. If any service techs for these machines are reading here, and can guide me further, it would be greatly appreciated. --Steve * NOTE: I cannot tell what revision of the service manual I have. It was downloaded from hifiengine.com and carries not document number, no date, and no revision level. It is 29 pages in length (27 numbered pages plus an unnumbered cover and back cover). From: Thomas R Sent: Sunday, February 6, 2022 7:57 AM To: Steve Sabin ; Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Subject: Re: [naktalk] Oil and belts Steve , I have replaced belts on my Nak 600’s and made a mistake once when replacing the bracket with the thrust bearing that touches the flywheel capstan unit . I didn’t get it to go into the exact center of the flywheel when i put the bracket back on . I think that caused a lot of wow and flutter until I took it back apart and correctly aligned it . Is the transport on your 500 the same way with a thrust bearing and bracket ? Also a drop of oil or dab of grease on that bearing area would be a good idea . Tom R. On Sun, Feb 6, 2022 at 10:02 AM Steve Sabin via Naktalk > wrote: I have my Nak 500 open and have successfully replaced all 6 bulbs (4 x VU meter lamps + 1 x REC lamp + 1 x Dolby lamp). Now, to check the main belt and lubrication. What oil do others use? The Nak 500 service manual says “light machine oil - Mobil DTE or equivalent” but there are numerous grades of Mobil DTE when I look online. DTE “light” corresponds to a viscosity of ISO 32. Sewing machine oil might be too light as it appears to have a viscosity of ISO 15 of less. What oil do those of you who are service techs for these machines use? And, who can recommend a reputable belt supplier? Marrs is apparently out of business. Does anyone know the actual original OEM belt dimensions for this machine? Would a belt that is too tight explain the wow and flutter I am experiencing? This machine has a spring-tensioned idler pulley and it seems like that gives the belt a relatively constant tension. -- Steve Sabin ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 1621266 bytes Desc: not available URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 7 02:46:06 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2022 17:46:06 -0800 Subject: [naktalk] Oil and belts In-Reply-To: References: <8F39BEB5-12C6-4A43-9AED-4E63087D0ECA@gmail.com> Message-ID: <05a701d81bc4$79c4cbf0$6d4e63d0$@gmail.com> Thanks. Per a post I made just a few moments ago, I know longer suspect that the belt is the culprit. I believe that it is a dimple in the thrust bearing, resulting from 45 years of wear and improper alignment with the wear dimple and the capstan shaft during reassembly after service. --Steve From: thomas laurence Sent: Sunday, February 6, 2022 1:29 PM To: Steve Sabin ; Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Subject: Re: [naktalk] Oil and belts Steve, For what it's worth: https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Belt-Kit-Nakamichi-500/dp/B0713TTRCD Tom On Sun, Feb 6, 2022 at 9:02 AM Steve Sabin via Naktalk > wrote: I have my Nak 500 open and have successfully replaced all 6 bulbs (4 x VU meter lamps + 1 x REC lamp + 1 x Dolby lamp). Now, to check the main belt and lubrication. What oil do others use? The Nak 500 service manual says “light machine oil - Mobil DTE or equivalent” but there are numerous grades of Mobil DTE when I look online. DTE “light” corresponds to a viscosity of ISO 32. Sewing machine oil might be too light as it appears to have a viscosity of ISO 15 of less. What oil do those of you who are service techs for these machines use? And, who can recommend a reputable belt supplier? Marrs is apparently out of business. Does anyone know the actual original OEM belt dimensions for this machine? Would a belt that is too tight explain the wow and flutter I am experiencing? This machine has a spring-tensioned idler pulley and it seems like that gives the belt a relatively constant tension. -- Steve Sabin ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 7 14:06:39 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Perry.nak via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2022 08:06:39 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] 500 thrust bearing dimple Message-ID: <405B92CF-C5A5-4642-843E-111860BEA52D@comcast.net> Virtually every classic Nakamichi has the same thrust bearing design, as do many other makes. The CDM01 CD transport as well. The nylon is easy to sand flat. Simply remove the bracket and the screw and install the screw back in such that the dimple side is now on the outside of the bracket. Then adjust the screw so the dimple end barely protrudes and sand flat using 1000/2000 emery on a flat surface using the bracket itself as the flat plane. Sent from my iPhone From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 7 14:22:07 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Steve Sabin via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2022 05:22:07 -0800 Subject: [naktalk] 500 thrust bearing dimple In-Reply-To: <405B92CF-C5A5-4642-843E-111860BEA52D@comcast.net> References: <405B92CF-C5A5-4642-843E-111860BEA52D@comcast.net> Message-ID: <5FA63E7D-7885-4465-B86B-8B5379310F6C@gmail.com> Thank you Perry! That explains why the center of the screw is dark gray - it is filled with Teflon. I had been wondering about that. I will deal with the dimple as you suggest by filing carefully with an Emory board. I am attaching a video of the belt in operation. Does it suggest a bad belt to you? I didn’t think the naked eye should be able to see visible variations like that. It is most noticeable at the motor drive pulley. Thomas Brucker thought it might be wear on the plastic support arm on the idler pulley, but my model must be newer as it reflects the improved metal (aluminum) support arm. This is visible in the last few seconds of the video. -- Steve Sabin -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Video.mov Type: video/quicktime Size: 2082404 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- > On Feb 7, 2022, at 5:06 AM, Perry.nak via Naktalk wrote: > > Virtually every classic Nakamichi has the same thrust bearing design, as do many other makes. The CDM01 CD transport as well. The nylon is easy to sand flat. Simply remove the bracket and the screw and install the screw back in such that the dimple side is now on the outside of the bracket. Then adjust the screw so the dimple end barely protrudes and sand flat using 1000/2000 emery on a flat surface using the bracket itself as the flat plane. > > Sent from my iPhone > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 7 15:38:59 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2022 06:38:59 -0800 Subject: [naktalk] Oil and belts In-Reply-To: <8F39BEB5-12C6-4A43-9AED-4E63087D0ECA@gmail.com> References: <8F39BEB5-12C6-4A43-9AED-4E63087D0ECA@gmail.com> Message-ID: <06b301d81c30$721d7250$565856f0$@gmail.com> For all reading this thread, here are links to my thrust bearing photos and to the 20-sec video I took of my existing belt in operation. Feedback appreciated on whether the video gives signs that the belt is the problem. It also shows that my idler pulley swingarm is aluminum - not plastic - and thus a later revision of Nak's transport mechanism incorporating improvements. Wow & Flutter still not resolved. Step 1 will be to file down the thrust bearing to remove dimple. Step 2 will be to replace the belt. Belt Video: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0d5_XAT78wjcgPcHREqpZ4Xhw Thrust Bearing: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0d75GxH6wfilmURAYbfqzXeag --Steve Sabin -----Original Message----- From: Steve Sabin Sent: Sunday, February 6, 2022 5:31 AM To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Subject: Re: Oil and belts I have my Nak 500 open and have successfully replaced all 6 bulbs (4 x VU meter lamps + 1 x REC lamp + 1 x Dolby lamp). Now, to check the main belt and lubrication. What oil do others use? The Nak 500 service manual says “light machine oil - Mobil DTE or equivalent” but there are numerous grades of Mobil DTE when I look online. DTE “light” corresponds to a viscosity of ISO 32. Sewing machine oil might be too light as it appears to have a viscosity of ISO 15 of less. What oil do those of you who are service techs for these machines use? And, who can recommend a reputable belt supplier? Marrs is apparently out of business. Does anyone know the actual original OEM belt dimensions for this machine? Would a belt that is too tight explain the wow and flutter I am experiencing? This machine has a spring-tensioned idler pulley and it seems like that gives the belt a relatively constant tension. -- Steve Sabin From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 7 16:45:24 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Thomas R via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2022 10:45:24 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Oil and belts In-Reply-To: <06b301d81c30$721d7250$565856f0$@gmail.com> References: <8F39BEB5-12C6-4A43-9AED-4E63087D0ECA@gmail.com> <06b301d81c30$721d7250$565856f0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: It looks like a bad belt , the worst I’ve ever seen . The thickness looks like it varies . On Mon, Feb 7, 2022 at 9:39 AM via Naktalk wrote: > For all reading this thread, here are links to my thrust bearing photos > and to the 20-sec video I took of my existing belt in operation. Feedback > appreciated on whether the video gives signs that the belt is the problem. > It also shows that my idler pulley swingarm is aluminum - not plastic - and > thus a later revision of Nak's transport mechanism incorporating > improvements. Wow & Flutter still not resolved. Step 1 will be to file > down the thrust bearing to remove dimple. Step 2 will be to replace the > belt. > > Belt Video: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0d5_XAT78wjcgPcHREqpZ4Xhw > > Thrust Bearing: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0d75GxH6wfilmURAYbfqzXeag > > > --Steve Sabin > > -----Original Message----- > From: Steve Sabin > Sent: Sunday, February 6, 2022 5:31 AM > To: naktalk at lists.naks.com > Subject: Re: Oil and belts > > I have my Nak 500 open and have successfully replaced all 6 bulbs (4 x VU > meter lamps + 1 x REC lamp + 1 x Dolby lamp). Now, to check the main belt > and lubrication. > > What oil do others use? The Nak 500 service manual says “light machine > oil - Mobil DTE or equivalent” but there are numerous grades of Mobil DTE > when I look online. DTE “light” corresponds to a viscosity of ISO 32. > Sewing machine oil might be too light as it appears to have a viscosity of > ISO 15 of less. What oil do those of you who are service techs for these > machines use? > > And, who can recommend a reputable belt supplier? Marrs is apparently out > of business. Does anyone know the actual original OEM belt dimensions for > this machine? > > Would a belt that is too tight explain the wow and flutter I am > experiencing? This machine has a spring-tensioned idler pulley and it > seems like that gives the belt a relatively constant tension. > > -- Steve Sabin > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 7 23:04:34 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Michael Chronister via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2022 22:04:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing References: <977561790.772257.1644271474143.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <977561790.772257.1644271474143@mail.yahoo.com> After not using my Nakamichi for 20+ years, I was having a wonderful renaissance with my CR-7 after replacing my Direct Drive belt. I was able to listen to 90 cassettes when the Nak dropped out of play mid cassette. No Play, Fast Forward, Rewind (although the tape load rewind does function). I was able to download the Service Manual & Troubleshooting manual. Grabbed my Fluke and stated to dig around. What I know. The power supply is functional.  Using the trouble shooting guide, and taking into consideration my common failures, i believe my issue is with either IC601 (VDD +5 is at pin 42 is good) or the control motor isn't rotating. Before I start tearing this deck apart, what else should I be checking. And if I'm in the right spot, what are some things i can do to verify my failure? Thanks in advance to your time. Regards,Mike ChronisterCleveland, OH -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Feb 8 10:54:58 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (=?UTF-8?B?S8Ozc2EgSmVuxZE=?= via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2022 10:54:58 +0100 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing In-Reply-To: <977561790.772257.1644271474143@mail.yahoo.com> References: <977561790.772257.1644271474143.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <977561790.772257.1644271474143@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004101d81cd1$ef33c680$cd9b5380$@hu> Hi Mike, The Reel-motor of CR-7s is often problematic. You can measure voltage at the appropriate leg of the R329 (in Play-mod 3,5-4,5V DC). It’s usually a solution to blow a little Contact-Spay into the Reel-motor and run a little shortly after! Regards: Jeno From: Naktalk [mailto:naktalk-bounces at lists.naks.com] On Behalf Of Michael Chronister via Naktalk Sent: Monday, February 07, 2022 11:05 PM To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing After not using my Nakamichi for 20+ years, I was having a wonderful renaissance with my CR-7 after replacing my Direct Drive belt. I was able to listen to 90 cassettes when the Nak dropped out of play mid cassette. No Play, Fast Forward, Rewind (although the tape load rewind does function). I was able to download the Service Manual & Troubleshooting manual. Grabbed my Fluke and stated to dig around. What I know. The power supply is functional. Using the trouble shooting guide, and taking into consideration my common failures, i believe my issue is with either IC601 (VDD +5 is at pin 42 is good) or the control motor isn't rotating. Before I start tearing this deck apart, what else should I be checking. And if I'm in the right spot, what are some things i can do to verify my failure? Thanks in advance to your time. Regards, Mike Chronister Cleveland, OH -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Feb 8 12:50:03 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (M I via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2022 06:50:03 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] ZX9 Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Feb 8 15:40:02 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Daniel Botelho via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2022 09:40:02 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing In-Reply-To: <004101d81cd1$ef33c680$cd9b5380$@hu> References: <977561790.772257.1644271474143.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <977561790.772257.1644271474143@mail.yahoo.com> <004101d81cd1$ef33c680$cd9b5380$@hu> Message-ID: Hey folks, I've found that by disassembling the CAM motor and cleaning the brushes/commutators with fine sandpaper and contact cleaner, as well as oiling both ends of the bearing brought a new lease on life for these motors. However, it definitely requires a bit of surgery, but it is doable. On Tue, Feb 8, 2022 at 5:15 AM Kósa Jenő via Naktalk wrote: > Hi Mike, > > > > The Reel-motor of CR-7s is often problematic. You can measure voltage at > the appropriate leg of the R329 (in Play-mod 3,5-4,5V DC). It’s usually a > solution to blow a little Contact-Spay into the Reel-motor and run a little > shortly after! > > > > Regards: > > Jeno > > > > *From:* Naktalk [mailto:naktalk-bounces at lists.naks.com] *On Behalf Of *Michael > Chronister via Naktalk > *Sent:* Monday, February 07, 2022 11:05 PM > *To:* naktalk at lists.naks.com > *Subject:* [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing > > > > After not using my Nakamichi for 20+ years, I was having a wonderful > renaissance with my CR-7 after replacing my Direct Drive belt. I was able > to listen to 90 cassettes when the Nak dropped out of play mid cassette. No > Play, Fast Forward, Rewind (although the tape load rewind does function). I > was able to download the Service Manual & Troubleshooting manual. Grabbed > my Fluke and stated to dig around. What I know. The power supply is > functional. Using the trouble shooting guide, and taking into > consideration my common failures, i believe my issue is with either IC601 > (VDD +5 is at pin 42 is good) or the control motor isn't rotating. Before I > start tearing this deck apart, what else should I be checking. And if I'm > in the right spot, what are some things i can do to verify my failure? > Thanks in advance to your time. > > > > Regards, > > Mike Chronister > > Cleveland, OH > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Feb 8 16:28:47 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Michael Chronister via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2022 15:28:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing In-Reply-To: References: <977561790.772257.1644271474143.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <977561790.772257.1644271474143@mail.yahoo.com> <004101d81cd1$ef33c680$cd9b5380$@hu> Message-ID: <1650112937.1003570.1644334127987@mail.yahoo.com> Although rehabbing a motor may be labor intensive, it's got to be easier than trying to find a replacement for IC601. I'll let you all know how the operation goes. Thanks,Mike Chronister On Tuesday, February 8, 2022, 9:39:43 AM EST, Daniel Botelho via Naktalk wrote: Hey folks, I've found that by disassembling the CAM motor and cleaning the brushes/commutators with fine sandpaper and contact cleaner, as well as oiling both ends of the bearing brought a new lease on life for these motors.   However, it definitely requires a bit of surgery, but it is doable. On Tue, Feb 8, 2022 at 5:15 AM Kósa Jenő via Naktalk wrote: Hi Mike,   The Reel-motor of CR-7s is often problematic. You can measure voltage at the appropriate leg of the R329 (in Play-mod 3,5-4,5V DC). It’s usually a solution to blow a little Contact-Spay into the Reel-motor and run a little shortly after!   Regards: Jeno   From: Naktalk [mailto:naktalk-bounces at lists.naks.com] On Behalf Of Michael Chronister via Naktalk Sent: Monday, February 07, 2022 11:05 PM To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing   After not using my Nakamichi for 20+ years, I was having a wonderful renaissance with my CR-7 after replacing my Direct Drive belt. I was able to listen to 90 cassettes when the Nak dropped out of play mid cassette. No Play, Fast Forward, Rewind (although the tape load rewind does function). I was able to download the Service Manual & Troubleshooting manual. Grabbed my Fluke and stated to dig around. What I know. The power supply is functional.  Using the trouble shooting guide, and taking into consideration my common failures, i believe my issue is with either IC601 (VDD +5 is at pin 42 is good) or the control motor isn't rotating. Before I start tearing this deck apart, what else should I be checking. And if I'm in the right spot, what are some things i can do to verify my failure? Thanks in advance to your time.   Regards, Mike Chronister Cleveland, OH ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Feb 8 15:38:20 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Daniel Botelho via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2022 09:38:20 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing Message-ID: A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20220203_103801.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 146257 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20220203_104251.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 178619 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20220203_104048.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 166489 bytes Desc: not available URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Wed Feb 9 09:41:05 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Phineas Paine via Naktalk) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2022 03:41:05 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'd also look at the cam motor first. They're known for developing dead spots on the armature due to accumulated carbon buildup and oxidation. Give it a tap or twist to see if it will start. A rebuild may be required. But take care during (dis)assembly. I broke a brush putting my BX-100's cam motor back together, so... Does anyone know where I might obtain a set of brushes for the cam motor, just like those in Daniel's pic? My BX-100's cam motor is sitting in a parts bin with a busted brush while a scavenged Pioneer DVD drawer motor takes its place in the deck (it seems to work just fine). Yeah, Naks (or any deck) need regular exercise, or issues will appear. I also have a Dragon, RX-505, two BX-300s, and a bunch of other makes to play with regularly. ...and just to prove the point, one of my BX-300 decks just started cutting out intermittently in the right channel. Guess I'll have to throw it on the bench for an S&M (Scope & Meter) session... hmmm. Phineas On Tue., Feb. 8, 2022, 10:45 a.m. Daniel Botelho via Naktalk, < naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Wed Feb 9 15:01:23 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Perry.nak via Naktalk) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2022 09:01:23 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Sankyo based transport motors Message-ID: All the reel and cam motors on decks that have sat around unused for a while, then put in to service will probably develop dead spots. When a tape just stops playing in the middle of the tape, it will auto stop because the sensor indicates no reel rotation, meaning either end of tape or tape feeding and no take up (tape eating). Decks used consistently develop dead spots much more rarely (some never) than decks that sit around for months or years. I have had both motors dead spot at the same time. So the capstans keep on feeding the tape but the mode motor did not drop the head block, so the tape continues to wind around the capstan & pinch roller until it stalls and jams. That’s always fun. BTW, this is fairly common on ANY make of deck that uses the same transport, of which there are many like Yamaha and NAD. The motors are relatively easy for experienced techs to replace, (usually with a Mabuchi) but it still takes quite a bit of time, and while many motors appear to fit, not all will work. Rebuilding them by cleaning the brushes and motor commutator and lubrication of the bearings alone is a crap shoot. Many techs that take the motors apart say the same thing “very little wear seen, minor oxide buildup”. They rebuild them and a month later, its doing the same thing, so all that work for nothing. If you examine the motors carefully when apart, the brushes are connected via a tab to the external solder tab with a very tiny screw in to the end cap. That junction must be broken, all the oxidation cleaned out and reassembled, usually with a drop of Deoxit or contact enhancer. In MOST cases, this will meet with success for a long time, assuming you haven’t bent or broken the brushes, or gouged something, and reassemble the motor correctly. Always mark the end cap and motor housing so you put it back exactly the same. This is why, sometimes, when sprayed with Deoxit, through the tiny hole in the rear of the end cap, the motor works again. The Deoxit has enhanced (lowered the resistance) that same junction However, Deoxit on the brushes can be bad, as that material is designed to run dry. Running wet will cause accelerated wear, as techs have found after the Deoxit trick fails. IF you have a source for the CORRECT replacement motors, it is usually easier to replace them. All the reel motors are the same, and all the cam (mode) motors are the same, but the suppliers have near identical motors with different RPMs, voltages, shaft lengths & diameter etc, and none seem to have one that is exactly the same, so people have different success with different but similar motors. A visit to Tapeheads will reveal about 200 discussions of this with motor models and sources suggested, which is always changing unfortunately. And no, I do not rebuild motors for others. Sent from my iPhone From naktalk at lists.naks.com Wed Feb 9 15:09:03 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Michael Chronister via Naktalk) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2022 14:09:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Sankyo based transport motors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2094026768.1357231.1644415743260@mail.yahoo.com> Thank You for taking the time to explain this. I'm a PCB guy by trade and found your post very informative. I hope my motor rehab will net positive results. And as I said in an earlier post, i'm glad i don't need to find a replacement IC601. Cheers,Mike Chronister On Wednesday, February 9, 2022, 9:01:34 AM EST, Perry.nak via Naktalk wrote: All the reel and cam motors on decks that have sat around unused for a while, then put in to service will probably develop dead spots. When a tape just stops playing in the middle of the tape, it will auto stop because the sensor indicates no reel rotation, meaning either end of tape or tape feeding and no take up (tape eating).  Decks used consistently develop dead spots much more rarely (some never) than decks that sit around for months or years. I have had both motors dead spot at the same time. So the capstans keep on feeding the tape but the mode motor did not drop the head block, so the tape continues to wind around the capstan & pinch roller until it stalls and jams. That’s always fun. BTW, this is fairly common on ANY make of deck that uses the same transport, of which there are many like Yamaha and NAD. The motors are relatively easy for experienced techs to replace, (usually with a Mabuchi) but it still takes quite a bit of time, and while many motors appear to fit, not all will work. Rebuilding them by cleaning the brushes and motor commutator and lubrication of the bearings alone is a crap shoot. Many techs that take the motors apart say the same thing “very little wear seen, minor oxide buildup”. They rebuild them and a month later, its doing the same thing, so all that work for nothing. If you examine the motors carefully when apart, the brushes are connected via a tab to the external solder tab with a very tiny screw in to the end cap. That junction must be broken, all the oxidation cleaned out and reassembled, usually with a drop of Deoxit or contact enhancer. In MOST cases, this will meet with success for a long time, assuming you haven’t bent or broken the brushes, or gouged something, and reassemble the motor correctly. Always mark the end cap and motor housing so you put it back exactly the same. This is why, sometimes, when sprayed with Deoxit, through the tiny hole in the rear of the end cap, the motor works again. The Deoxit has enhanced (lowered the resistance) that same junction  However, Deoxit on the brushes can be bad, as that material is designed to run dry. Running wet will cause accelerated wear, as techs have found after the Deoxit trick fails. IF you have a source for the CORRECT replacement motors, it is usually easier to replace them. All the reel motors are the same, and all the cam (mode) motors are the same, but the suppliers have near identical motors with different RPMs, voltages, shaft lengths & diameter etc, and none seem to have one that is exactly the same, so people have different success with different but similar motors. A visit to Tapeheads will reveal about 200 discussions of this with motor models and sources suggested, which is always changing unfortunately. And no, I do not rebuild motors for others. Sent from my iPhone ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Wed Feb 9 15:20:48 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Daniel Botelho via Naktalk) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2022 09:20:48 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Sankyo based transport motors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yup! I hear ya on those dead spots. I've had a deck that was stuck in play mode due to that dead spot. Unfortunately, it was left for a bit and with having the pinch rollers stuck in that play position for awhile, the CAM motor was the least of my worries as now I had to find 2 replacement rollers... :D The rebuild has been so far positive for me, but I find that you have to take the whole motor out. Some have been removing the rear caps only, which not only makes it trickier to remove the cap without putting undue stress on the brushes, but doesn't allow for proper oiling of the spindle bearing. The deoxit trick is definitely a bit of a crapshoot, for sure. I find that by using fine sandpaper on the brushes helps keep them clean from carbon and optimal contact. Thanks for the heads up on the screws on the actual brushes, as that could be a potential issue as well. I've not been very successful at finding motors. Most of the ones that I have tried out are running too fast and need modification resistors on the board to reduce the spin as they tend to overshoot frequently. And for the tapeheads threads, they are indeed changing as often as the weather. For the idler tire motors, I try to just replace them altogether. I have not had as much success with rebuilding those to be honest. As most of you know, the gear driven ones tend to be the motors that run into dead spots sooner as they are run much harder vs. the idler tire setup. One trick that has found some success is leaving the deck in ffwd mode for 24 hours overnight. It tends to clean up the brushes pretty good, but your mileage may vary. I have found a mabuchi motor that seems to work well in these decks, so I'm not too worried about the swap other than it requires a bit of disassembly of the reel tables (which should be done in either case that they need their own lubrication). Perry, if you have a good reliable source for those CAM motors...let us know. :) On Wed, Feb 9, 2022 at 9:01 AM Perry.nak via Naktalk wrote: > All the reel and cam motors on decks that have sat around unused for a > while, then put in to service will probably develop dead spots. When a tape > just stops playing in the middle of the tape, it will auto stop because the > sensor indicates no reel rotation, meaning either end of tape or tape > feeding and no take up (tape eating). Decks used consistently develop dead > spots much more rarely (some never) than decks that sit around for months > or years. > > I have had both motors dead spot at the same time. So the capstans keep on > feeding the tape but the mode motor did not drop the head block, so the > tape continues to wind around the capstan & pinch roller until it stalls > and jams. That’s always fun. > > BTW, this is fairly common on ANY make of deck that uses the same > transport, of which there are many like Yamaha and NAD. > > The motors are relatively easy for experienced techs to replace, (usually > with a Mabuchi) but it still takes quite a bit of time, and while many > motors appear to fit, not all will work. Rebuilding them by cleaning the > brushes and motor commutator and lubrication of the bearings alone is a > crap shoot. > > Many techs that take the motors apart say the same thing “very little wear > seen, minor oxide buildup”. They rebuild them and a month later, its doing > the same thing, so all that work for nothing. If you examine the motors > carefully when apart, the brushes are connected via a tab to the external > solder tab with a very tiny screw in to the end cap. That junction must be > broken, all the oxidation cleaned out and reassembled, usually with a drop > of Deoxit or contact enhancer. > > In MOST cases, this will meet with success for a long time, assuming you > haven’t bent or broken the brushes, or gouged something, and reassemble the > motor correctly. Always mark the end cap and motor housing so you put it > back exactly the same. > > This is why, sometimes, when sprayed with Deoxit, through the tiny hole in > the rear of the end cap, the motor works again. The Deoxit has enhanced > (lowered the resistance) that same junction However, Deoxit on the brushes > can be bad, as that material is designed to run dry. Running wet will cause > accelerated wear, as techs have found after the Deoxit trick fails. > > IF you have a source for the CORRECT replacement motors, it is usually > easier to replace them. All the reel motors are the same, and all the cam > (mode) motors are the same, but the suppliers have near identical motors > with different RPMs, voltages, shaft lengths & diameter etc, and none seem > to have one that is exactly the same, so people have different success with > different but similar motors. A visit to Tapeheads will reveal about 200 > discussions of this with motor models and sources suggested, which is > always changing unfortunately. > > And no, I do not rebuild motors for others. > > Sent from my iPhone > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Feb 12 05:38:48 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (via Naktalk) Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2022 20:38:48 -0800 Subject: [naktalk] Nak 500 - back in business, baby! Message-ID: <038801d81fca$6eb1cab0$4c156010$@gmail.com> Many thanks to Jeff at ES Labs for a quality belt and to Perry at ??? for guidance on how to properly refinish the surface of the nylon insert (bearing pad) on my capstan flywheel thrust bearing. I received the belt in the mail today and put everything back together. The verdict is in: it sounds just like I remember it! I'm particularly impressed with the low end on this machine - I don't remember it being so good. And of course, thanks to a proper belt - no more wow & flutter. What a different that little piece of rubber makes. I have posted a video here with my system and of course the Nakamichi 500 with all of its VU meter lamps working plus the Dolby and Record lamps. Memory counter works again (stops at 000 during rewind) and everything feels nice a tight. Managed to get all the screws back in, too - even the ones buried in the middle of the printed circuit boards under wiring bundles. https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b3UtYHYBEwauiPEpVJ2KvGnw Hope you enjoy the video and thanks again to everyone that offered advice and guidance. Thanks to all of you, this story had a happy ending. --Steve Sabin -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Feb 12 05:50:46 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (G. Fisher via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2022 04:50:46 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Nak 500 - back in business, baby! In-Reply-To: <038801d81fca$6eb1cab0$4c156010$@gmail.com> References: <038801d81fca$6eb1cab0$4c156010$@gmail.com> Message-ID: What a fantastic outcome Steve. Loved your video, that's a great looking and sounding vintage system you have there. Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: via Naktalk Date: 12/2/22 3:39 pm (GMT+10:00) To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Subject: [naktalk] Nak 500 - back in business, baby! Many thanks to Jeff at ES Labs for a quality belt and to Perry at ??? for guidance on how to properly refinish the surface of the nylon insert (bearing pad) on my capstan flywheel thrust bearing. I received the belt in the mail today and put everything back together. The verdict is in: it sounds just like I remember it! I’m particularly impressed with the low end on this machine – I don’t remember it being so good. And of course, thanks to a proper belt – no more wow & flutter. What a different that little piece of rubber makes. I have posted a video here with my system and of course the Nakamichi 500 with all of its VU meter lamps working plus the Dolby and Record lamps. Memory counter works again (stops at 000 during rewind) and everything feels nice a tight. Managed to get all the screws back in, too – even the ones buried in the middle of the printed circuit boards under wiring bundles. https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b3UtYHYBEwauiPEpVJ2KvGnw Hope you enjoy the video and thanks again to everyone that offered advice and guidance. Thanks to all of you, this story had a happy ending. --Steve Sabin -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Feb 12 06:59:38 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Les Morgan via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2022 00:59:38 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Nak 500 - back in business, baby! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Congratulations and gratitude to all! It is a joy to be amongst such sterling souls. Pax Domini Sit Semper Vobiscum Et Illegitimi Non Carborundum Les Morgan > On Feb 11, 2022, at 11:58 PM, G. Fisher via Naktalk wrote: > >  > What a fantastic outcome Steve. Loved your video, that's a great looking and sounding vintage system you have there. > > > > Sent from my Galaxy > > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: via Naktalk > Date: 12/2/22 3:39 pm (GMT+10:00) > To: naktalk at lists.naks.com > Subject: [naktalk] Nak 500 - back in business, baby! > > Many thanks to Jeff at ES Labs for a quality belt and to Perry at ??? for guidance on how to properly refinish the surface of the nylon insert (bearing pad) on my capstan flywheel thrust bearing. I received the belt in the mail today and put everything back together. The verdict is in: it sounds just like I remember it! > > I’m particularly impressed with the low end on this machine – I don’t remember it being so good. And of course, thanks to a proper belt – no more wow & flutter. What a different that little piece of rubber makes. > > I have posted a video here with my system and of course the Nakamichi 500 with all of its VU meter lamps working plus the Dolby and Record lamps. Memory counter works again (stops at 000 during rewind) and everything feels nice a tight. Managed to get all the screws back in, too – even the ones buried in the middle of the printed circuit boards under wiring bundles. > > https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b3UtYHYBEwauiPEpVJ2KvGnw > > Hope you enjoy the video and thanks again to everyone that offered advice and guidance. Thanks to all of you, this story had a happy ending. > > > --Steve Sabin > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Feb 12 14:05:00 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Daniel Botelho via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2022 08:05:00 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Nak 500 - back in business, baby! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <57d8c745irb0rs41l92dh9ne.1644671100558@gmail.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Feb 12 17:29:12 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (RON HEUER via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2022 11:29:12 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Cr3a References: Message-ID: Hi, I have a Nakamichi Cr3a cassettte deck. Will this run correctly when I move overseas and use a step down converter at 120volts but 50 cycles instead of the USA of 60 ?? The rear of the deck says 50/60 cycles Ron Sent from my iPhone From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Feb 12 22:29:40 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2022 13:29:40 -0800 Subject: [naktalk] Donation Message-ID: As some of you following my little saga are aware, Jeff Galin generously gave me a genuine factory OEM belt (NOS) for my Nakamichi 500. Being the class act that he is, he refused any payment so I made a donation to NakTalk in his name. So glad that I found this site and the great people that frequent it. Jeff - thanks again. If I owned a Dragon or one of the other serious Naks for big boys, you and your team would my go-to guys -- Steve Sabin Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Feb 13 02:03:34 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Les Morgan via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2022 20:03:34 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Donation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7420E560-03EE-42D6-96C8-D873501EC34A@twc.com> Outstanding! Pax Domini Sit Semper Vobiscum Et Illegitimi Non Carborundum > On Feb 12, 2022, at 4:29 PM, via Naktalk wrote: > > As some of you following my little saga are aware, Jeff Galin generously gave me a genuine factory OEM belt (NOS) for my Nakamichi 500. Being the class act that he is, he refused any payment so I made a donation to NakTalk in his name. So glad that I found this site and the great people that frequent it. > > Jeff - thanks again. If I owned a Dragon or one of the other serious Naks for big boys, you and your team would my go-to guys > > -- Steve Sabin > Sent from my iPhone > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Feb 13 07:09:53 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Wouter Heijke via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2022 07:09:53 +0100 (CET) Subject: [naktalk] Donation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <939712250.82036.1644732593161@ox-webmail.xs4all.nl> Thank you and Jeff who has always been supportive! Members come and go on naktalk but Jeff is still around. Wouter > Op 12-02-2022 22:29 schreef via Naktalk : > > > As some of you following my little saga are aware, Jeff Galin generously gave me a genuine factory OEM belt (NOS) for my Nakamichi 500. Being the class act that he is, he refused any payment so I made a donation to NakTalk in his name. So glad that I found this site and the great people that frequent it. > > Jeff - thanks again. If I owned a Dragon or one of the other serious Naks for big boys, you and your team would my go-to guys > > -- Steve Sabin > Sent from my iPhone > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Feb 13 13:46:23 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2022 12:46:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] CR3A running on 50Hz mains - Ron Heuer In-Reply-To: <225993513.1678786.1644756206657@mail.yahoo.com> References: <225993513.1678786.1644756206657@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <35046660.1669441.1644756383815@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Ron It'll run fine at 120V and 50Hz. The power transformer in the Nakamichi will run slightly warmer than on 120V 60Hz, and its power supply before regulation will develop a 20% higher ripple voltage - but after all, Nakamichi models were all designed to run on either mains frequency. RegardsJohn Gipps    Message: 2 Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2022 11:29:12 -0500 From: RON HEUER via Naktalk To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Subject: [naktalk] Cr3a Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi, I have a Nakamichi Cr3a cassettte deck. Will this run correctly when I move overseas and use a step down converter at 120volts but 50 cycles instead of the USA of 60 ?? The rear of the deck says 50/60 cycles Ron Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Feb 13 15:43:18 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (RON HEUER via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2022 09:43:18 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] CR3A running on 50Hz mains - Ron Heuer In-Reply-To: <35046660.1669441.1644756383815@mail.yahoo.com> References: <35046660.1669441.1644756383815@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi John, Thanks !! Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 13, 2022, at 7:49 AM, via Naktalk wrote: > >  > > > > > Hi Ron > > It'll run fine at 120V and 50Hz. The power transformer in the Nakamichi will run slightly warmer than on 120V 60Hz, and its power supply before regulation will develop a 20% higher ripple voltage - but after all, Nakamichi models were all designed to run on either mains frequency. > > Regards > John Gipps > > > > > > > Message: 2 > Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2022 11:29:12 -0500 > From: RON HEUER via Naktalk > To: naktalk at lists.naks.com > Subject: [naktalk] Cr3a > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > Hi, I have a Nakamichi Cr3a cassettte deck. Will this run correctly when I move overseas and use a step down converter at 120volts but 50 cycles instead of the USA of 60 ?? > The rear of the deck says 50/60 cycles > Ron > Sent from my iPhone > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Feb 13 22:04:17 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (RON HEUER via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2022 16:04:17 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] CR3A running on 50Hz mains - Ron Heuer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7668FB8C-57E9-4200-97C3-35D22C923C53@aol.com> Thanks John !! Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 13, 2022, at 9:45 AM, RON HEUER wrote: > > PT09PT09PT0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0t LS0tLS0tLS09PT09PT09PT0KICAgICAgICAgIEFsc28gY2hlY2sgb3V0IHRoZSB3aWtpISBodHRw Oi8vd2lraS5uYWtzLmNvbQo9PT09PT09PS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0t LS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLT09PT09PT09PQogICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAg ICBOYWt0YWxrQGxpc3RzLm5ha3MuY29tIG1haWxpbmdsaXN0Ck1haW50YWluIHlvdXIgYWNjb3Vu dCBoZXJlOiBodHRwOi8vbGlzdHMubmFrcy5jb20vbWFpbG1hbi9saXN0aW5mby9uYWt0YWxrCj09 PT09PT09LS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0t LS0tLS0tPT09PT09PT09 From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 14 13:14:46 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Michael Chronister via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2022 12:14:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing In-Reply-To: <1650112937.1003570.1644334127987@mail.yahoo.com> References: <977561790.772257.1644271474143.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <977561790.772257.1644271474143@mail.yahoo.com> <004101d81cd1$ef33c680$cd9b5380$@hu> <1650112937.1003570.1644334127987@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <178476450.1074778.1644840886764@mail.yahoo.com> The Rehabbing of the control motor was a success! Thanks to all who helped. Cheers,Mike C. On Tuesday, February 8, 2022, 10:29:00 AM EST, Michael Chronister via Naktalk wrote: Although rehabbing a motor may be labor intensive, it's got to be easier than trying to find a replacement for IC601. I'll let you all know how the operation goes. Thanks,Mike Chronister On Tuesday, February 8, 2022, 9:39:43 AM EST, Daniel Botelho via Naktalk wrote: Hey folks, I've found that by disassembling the CAM motor and cleaning the brushes/commutators with fine sandpaper and contact cleaner, as well as oiling both ends of the bearing brought a new lease on life for these motors.   However, it definitely requires a bit of surgery, but it is doable. On Tue, Feb 8, 2022 at 5:15 AM Kósa Jenő via Naktalk wrote: Hi Mike,   The Reel-motor of CR-7s is often problematic. You can measure voltage at the appropriate leg of the R329 (in Play-mod 3,5-4,5V DC). It’s usually a solution to blow a little Contact-Spay into the Reel-motor and run a little shortly after!   Regards: Jeno   From: Naktalk [mailto:naktalk-bounces at lists.naks.com] On Behalf Of Michael Chronister via Naktalk Sent: Monday, February 07, 2022 11:05 PM To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing   After not using my Nakamichi for 20+ years, I was having a wonderful renaissance with my CR-7 after replacing my Direct Drive belt. I was able to listen to 90 cassettes when the Nak dropped out of play mid cassette. No Play, Fast Forward, Rewind (although the tape load rewind does function). I was able to download the Service Manual & Troubleshooting manual. Grabbed my Fluke and stated to dig around. What I know. The power supply is functional.  Using the trouble shooting guide, and taking into consideration my common failures, i believe my issue is with either IC601 (VDD +5 is at pin 42 is good) or the control motor isn't rotating. Before I start tearing this deck apart, what else should I be checking. And if I'm in the right spot, what are some things i can do to verify my failure? Thanks in advance to your time.   Regards, Mike Chronister Cleveland, OH ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 14 14:28:41 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2022 13:28:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing (John Gipps via Naktalk) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1551499895.1893200.1644845321544@mail.yahoo.com>  Hi Mike This is a somewhat late response, as I see you have already thoroughly overhauled the Control Motor in your CR-7A. I went back and read your original post - where you said that you were playing tapes, and your "CR7A dropped out of play mid cassette." I would be doubtful that a defective Control Motor is likely to cause a CR7A to stop playing mid cassette. A defective or intermittent Control Motor is more likely to stop you from playing the cassette when you first pressed Play, rather than to cause the deck to stop playing mid cassette. So my fingers are crossed for you, but Kósa Jenő in the post after yours might be on the money - your problem could be lots of things, but a defective reel motor or reel motor drive electronics is one of several possible causes as he suggests. Anyway, at least you've now got a beautifully serviced Control Motor, and I am sorry to say, I think you've probably still got an intermittent problem in Play that will likely come back when it feels like it. Regards John Gipps   5. CR-7A Just stopped Playing (Michael Chronister via Naktalk  6. Re: CR-7A Just stopped Playing (Kósa Jenő via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2022 22:04:34 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael Chronister via Naktalk To: "naktalk at lists.naks.com" Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing Message-ID: <977561790.772257.1644271474143 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" After not using my Nakamichi for 20+ years, I was having a wonderful renaissance with my CR-7 after replacing my Direct Drive belt. I was able to listen to 90 cassettes when the Nak dropped out of play mid cassette. No Play, Fast Forward, Rewind (although the tape load rewind does function). I was able to download the Service Manual & Troubleshooting manual. Grabbed my Fluke and stated to dig around. What I know. The power supply is functional.  Using the trouble shooting guide, and taking into consideration my common failures, i believe my issue is with either IC601 (VDD +5 is at pin 42 is good) or the control motor isn't rotating. Before I start tearing this deck apart, what else should I be checking. And if I'm in the right spot, what are some things i can do to verify my failure? Thanks in advance to your time. Regards,Mike ChronisterCleveland, OH -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 14 15:23:57 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Michael Chronister via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2022 14:23:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing (John Gipps via Naktalk) In-Reply-To: <1551499895.1893200.1644845321544@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1551499895.1893200.1644845321544@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1432891597.1110377.1644848637492@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks for the follow up John. I'll definitely keep an eye on things.  I've had my CR-7 since i re-upped in the Navy in the Fall of 88. I am fortunate enough to have a copy of the CR-7 troubleshooting guide. All the symptoms were pointing to the Control motor and IC601 (that's the failure I fear the most, I'm not sure how sourcing that would be). I will say that i enjoyed a weekend full playing my old cassettes. Cheers,Mike C. On Monday, February 14, 2022, 8:38:02 AM EST, via Naktalk wrote:  Hi Mike This is a somewhat late response, as I see you have already thoroughly overhauled the Control Motor in your CR-7A. I went back and read your original post - where you said that you were playing tapes, and your "CR7A dropped out of play mid cassette." I would be doubtful that a defective Control Motor is likely to cause a CR7A to stop playing mid cassette. A defective or intermittent Control Motor is more likely to stop you from playing the cassette when you first pressed Play, rather than to cause the deck to stop playing mid cassette. So my fingers are crossed for you, but Kósa Jenő in the post after yours might be on the money - your problem could be lots of things, but a defective reel motor or reel motor drive electronics is one of several possible causes as he suggests. Anyway, at least you've now got a beautifully serviced Control Motor, and I am sorry to say, I think you've probably still got an intermittent problem in Play that will likely come back when it feels like it. Regards John Gipps   5. CR-7A Just stopped Playing (Michael Chronister via Naktalk  6. Re: CR-7A Just stopped Playing (Kósa Jenő via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2022 22:04:34 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael Chronister via Naktalk To: "naktalk at lists.naks.com" Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing Message-ID: <977561790.772257.1644271474143 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" After not using my Nakamichi for 20+ years, I was having a wonderful renaissance with my CR-7 after replacing my Direct Drive belt. I was able to listen to 90 cassettes when the Nak dropped out of play mid cassette. No Play, Fast Forward, Rewind (although the tape load rewind does function). I was able to download the Service Manual & Troubleshooting manual. Grabbed my Fluke and stated to dig around. What I know. The power supply is functional.  Using the trouble shooting guide, and taking into consideration my common failures, i believe my issue is with either IC601 (VDD +5 is at pin 42 is good) or the control motor isn't rotating. Before I start tearing this deck apart, what else should I be checking. And if I'm in the right spot, what are some things i can do to verify my failure? Thanks in advance to your time. Regards,Mike ChronisterCleveland, OH ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 14 15:37:55 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Daniel Botelho via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2022 09:37:55 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing (John Gipps via Naktalk) In-Reply-To: <1432891597.1110377.1644848637492@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 14 15:45:15 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Michael Chronister via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2022 14:45:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing (John Gipps via Naktalk) In-Reply-To: References: <1432891597.1110377.1644848637492@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1319952799.1121215.1644849915847@mail.yahoo.com> Daniel, I think i neglected to mention in my earlier posts that the RWD and FWD functions also were not working. My apologies if i didn't make that known earlier. Cheers,Mike C. On Monday, February 14, 2022, 9:37:59 AM EST, Daniel Botelho wrote: #yiv3316768552 #yiv3316768552response_container_BBPPID{font-family:initial;font-size:initial;color:initial;} Hi Michael, It's not the control/CAM motor.   If the tape stops mid-stream, it's either going to be a tired/worn idler motor or one of the memory/zero stop features were accidentally turned on.  The CAM motor controls play/rew/ffwd functions,  but does not monitor the timing of the reel spool tables.  There's a timing function, and if you look closely while playing back, you'll see the right reel table stop while playing back due to a dead spot in the motor... | From: naktalk at lists.naks.comSent: February 14, 2022 9:25 a.m.To: naktalk at lists.naks.com; johngipps at aol.comReply to: MCHRON1 at yahoo.com; naktalk at lists.naks.comSubject: Re: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing (John Gipps via Naktalk) | Thanks for the follow up John. I'll definitely keep an eye on things.  I've had my CR-7 since i re-upped in the Navy in the Fall of 88. I am fortunate enough to have a copy of the CR-7 troubleshooting guide. All the symptoms were pointing to the Control motor and IC601 (that's the failure I fear the most, I'm not sure how sourcing that would be). I will say that i enjoyed a weekend full playing my old cassettes. Cheers,Mike C.                     On Monday, February 14, 2022, 8:38:02 AM EST, via Naktalk wrote:                Hi Mike This is a somewhat late response, as I see you have already thoroughly overhauled the Control Motor in your CR-7A. I went back and read your original post - where you said that you were playing tapes, and your "CR7A dropped out of play mid cassette." I would be doubtful that a defective Control Motor is likely to cause a CR7A to stop playing mid cassette. A defective or intermittent Control Motor is more likely to stop you from playing the cassette when you first pressed Play, rather than to cause the deck to stop playing mid cassette. So my fingers are crossed for you, but Kósa Jenő in the post after yours might be on the money - your problem could be lots of things, but a defective reel motor or reel motor drive electronics is one of several possible causes as he suggests. Anyway, at least you've now got a beautifully serviced Control Motor, and I am sorry to say, I think you've probably still got an intermittent problem in Play that will likely come back when it feels like it. Regards John Gipps   5. CR-7A Just stopped Playing (Michael Chronister via Naktalk  6. Re: CR-7A Just stopped Playing (Kósa Jenő via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2022 22:04:34 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael Chronister via Naktalk To: "naktalk at lists.naks.com" Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing Message-ID: <977561790.772257.1644271474143 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" After not using my Nakamichi for 20+ years, I was having a wonderful renaissance with my CR-7 after replacing my Direct Drive belt. I was able to listen to 90 cassettes when the Nak dropped out of play mid cassette. No Play, Fast Forward, Rewind (although the tape load rewind does function). I was able to download the Service Manual & Troubleshooting manual. Grabbed my Fluke and stated to dig around. What I know. The power supply is functional.  Using the trouble shooting guide, and taking into consideration my common failures, i believe my issue is with either IC601 (VDD +5 is at pin 42 is good) or the control motor isn't rotating. Before I start tearing this deck apart, what else should I be checking. And if I'm in the right spot, what are some things i can do to verify my failure? Thanks in advance to your time. Regards,Mike ChronisterCleveland, OH ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 14 22:15:58 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (David King via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2022 07:15:58 +1000 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing (John Gipps via Naktalk) In-Reply-To: <1551499895.1893200.1644845321544@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1551499895.1893200.1644845321544@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4201CC1E-C0C7-4AD5-9E90-0CE3077C20DF@gmail.com> Hi to John Gipps Thanks for being active in this group. Thought I would let you know that I am still running my first Nakamichi 482 I ever owned purchased second hand from a Hi Fi shop on the Gold Coast. The first thing I did was take it to you up in Brisbane where you serviced it and set up the levels and bias for my chosen TDK tape variants. That was 42 years ago!!! I have many more Naks now and service them myself, but I have a special spot for the 482 because it represents to me a time when life was much simpler, when not being able to afford something was OK and made you appreciate even more the ownership of something you were lucky enough to acquire even if well down the list of models. I still love listening to and recording with these machines, as we all do in this fantastic group. Cheers from Toowoomba David > On 14 Feb 2022, at 11:37 pm, via Naktalk wrote: > >  > > Hi Mike > > This is a somewhat late response, as I see you have already thoroughly overhauled the Control Motor in your CR-7A. I went back and read your original post - where you said that you were playing tapes, and your "CR7A dropped out of play mid cassette." > > I would be doubtful that a defective Control Motor is likely to cause a CR7A to stop playing mid cassette. A defective or intermittent Control Motor is more likely to stop you from playing the cassette when you first pressed Play, rather than to cause the deck to stop playing mid cassette. So my fingers are crossed for you, but Kósa Jenő in the post after yours might be on the money - your problem could be lots of things, but a defective reel motor or reel motor drive electronics is one of several possible causes as he suggests. Anyway, at least you've now got a beautifully serviced Control Motor, and I am sorry to say, I think you've probably still got an intermittent problem in Play that will likely come back when it feels like it. > > Regards > > John Gipps > > > > > > > 5. CR-7A Just stopped Playing (Michael Chronister via Naktalk > 6. Re: CR-7A Just stopped Playing (Kósa Jenő via Naktalk) > > > > Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2022 22:04:34 +0000 (UTC) > From: Michael Chronister via Naktalk > To: "naktalk at lists.naks.com" > Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing > Message-ID: <977561790.772257.1644271474143 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > After not using my Nakamichi for 20+ years, I was having a wonderful renaissance with my CR-7 after replacing my Direct Drive belt. I was able to listen to 90 cassettes when the Nak dropped out of play mid cassette. No Play, Fast Forward, Rewind (although the tape load rewind does function). I was able to download the Service Manual & Troubleshooting manual. Grabbed my Fluke and stated to dig around. What I know. The power supply is functional. Using the trouble shooting guide, and taking into consideration my common failures, i believe my issue is with either IC601 (VDD +5 is at pin 42 is good) or the control motor isn't rotating. Before I start tearing this deck apart, what else should I be checking. And if I'm in the right spot, what are some things i can do to verify my failure? Thanks in advance to your time. > Regards,Mike ChronisterCleveland, OH > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Wed Feb 16 22:03:17 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (via Naktalk) Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2022 13:03:17 -0800 Subject: [naktalk] Memory Auto-Stop Function - RW only or also FFW and Play? Message-ID: <0a7301d82378$9fe43350$dfac99f0$@gmail.com> This is a question for those who work on various models of Nakamichi decks. I have a 500 with a memory function that is (I think) fully operational. It stops automatically at counter 000, but only under the following two circumstances: 1. The memory "active" button must be depressed (if it is not depressed, the counter has no impact and will not automatically stop the transport) 2. The deck must be rewinding; it will not stop if it is in play mode and crosses from 999 to 000, nor if it is in FFW mode and crosses from 999 to 000. It only works in the descending direction (as it is rewinding and crosses from 000 to 999). Please advise if this is normal / intentional design behavior or if it is also supposed to work in the FFW and Play modes. --Steve Sabin -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Thu Feb 17 03:33:15 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (G. Fisher via Naktalk) Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2022 02:33:15 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Memory Auto-Stop Function - RW only or also FFW and Play? In-Reply-To: <0a7301d82378$9fe43350$dfac99f0$@gmail.com> References: <0a7301d82378$9fe43350$dfac99f0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hello Steve. For all Nak decks that I own, the memory function only works in rewind mode, by design. The way you've described your 500's memory function working mirrors each of my Nak decks. Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: via Naktalk Date: 17/2/22 8:03 am (GMT+10:00) To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Subject: [naktalk] Memory Auto-Stop Function - RW only or also FFW and Play? This is a question for those who work on various models of Nakamichi decks. I have a 500 with a memory function that is (I think) fully operational. It stops automatically at counter 000, but only under the following two circumstances: 1. The memory “active” button must be depressed (if it is not depressed, the counter has no impact and will not automatically stop the transport) 2. The deck must be rewinding; it will not stop if it is in play mode and crosses from 999 to 000, nor if it is in FFW mode and crosses from 999 to 000. It only works in the descending direction (as it is rewinding and crosses from 000 to 999). Please advise if this is normal / intentional design behavior or if it is also supposed to work in the FFW and Play modes. --Steve Sabin -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Fri Feb 18 19:13:39 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Thomas R via Naktalk) Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2022 13:13:39 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Memory Auto-Stop Function - RW only or also FFW and Play? In-Reply-To: <0a7301d82378$9fe43350$dfac99f0$@gmail.com> References: <0a7301d82378$9fe43350$dfac99f0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Steve , I just tried the memory stop on one of my Nakamichi 600’s , and it works exactly the same as your 500 . It only stops on 000 when rewinding . It does not stop when ff to 000 or playing and going to 000 . Thomas . On Wed, Feb 16, 2022 at 4:03 PM via Naktalk wrote: > This is a question for those who work on various models of Nakamichi > decks. I have a 500 with a memory function that is (I think) fully > operational. It stops automatically at counter 000, but only under the > following two circumstances: > > > > 1. The memory “active” button must be depressed (if it is not > depressed, the counter has no impact and will not automatically stop the > transport) > 2. The deck must be rewinding; it will not stop if it is in play mode > and crosses from 999 to 000, nor if it is in FFW mode and crosses from 999 > to 000. It only works in the descending direction (as it is rewinding and > crosses from 000 to 999). > > > > Please advise if this is normal / intentional design behavior or if it is > also supposed to work in the FFW and Play modes. > > > > --Steve Sabin > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Fri Feb 18 23:15:51 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Marcus James via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2022 09:15:51 +1100 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing (John Gipps via Naktalk) Message-ID: <4751D053-C587-4B49-B76E-87A577D4095C@tpg.com.au> Hi John My apologies for intruding on this conversation. I am trying to touch base with you regarding my Dragon via your aol address. Perhaps it has gone to your junk folder. I will send again. Cheers. Marcus James From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Feb 19 19:03:28 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2022 18:03:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Hello David King from Toowoomba In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <746956915.592742.1645293808644@mail.yahoo.com> Hi David How fantastic to hear from a customer from 42 years ago. I was hoping to find details of that job 42 years ago, but it turns out that the first entries in my repair database on a PC were in about 1990 - ten years after your visit. I agree with your comments that life was much simpler then - I really miss those days, and hifi was such a vibrant force then, and such a popular hobby. By all means email me directly on JohnGipps at aol.com and tell me more about your Nak collection. Cheers John Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2022 07:15:58 +1000 From: David King via Naktalk To: johngipps at aol.com, Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks     Subject: Re: [naktalk] CR-7A Just stopped Playing (John Gipps via     Naktalk) Message-ID: <4201CC1E-C0C7-4AD5-9E90-0CE3077C20DF at gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Hi to John Gipps Thanks for being active in this group. Thought I would let you know that I am still running my first Nakamichi 482 I ever owned purchased second hand from a Hi Fi shop on the Gold Coast.  The first thing I did was take it to you up in Brisbane where you serviced it and set up the levels and bias for my chosen TDK tape variants.  That was 42 years ago!!!  I have many more Naks now and service them myself, but I have a special spot for the 482 because it represents to me a time when life was much simpler, when not being able to afford something was OK and made you appreciate even more the ownership of something you were lucky enough to acquire even if well down the list of models.  I still love listening to and recording with these machines, as we all do in this fantastic group. Cheers from Toowoomba David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 21 06:14:47 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2022 21:14:47 -0800 Subject: [naktalk] MPX filter for Nak 500 and Naks in general Message-ID: I presume that since I never use my deck to record FM Stereo, I can turn off the MPX filter on my Nak 500. Does anyone know if this is a true notch filter at 19kHz strictly for knocking out an FM Stereo pilot tone - or is it a low-pass filter that brickwalls everything above 19kHz? The factory specs on this deck say its -3dB corner with IEC Type II tape is at 17kHz anyway. -- Steve Sabin -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Feb 22 02:37:46 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Tom Brucker via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2022 19:37:46 -0600 Subject: [naktalk] MPX filter for Nak 500 and Naks in general In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It is a notch filter. Keep it off. The filter begins to roll off at 17kHz On Sun, Feb 20, 2022, 11:14 PM via Naktalk wrote: > I presume that since I never use my deck to record FM Stereo, I can turn > off the MPX filter on my Nak 500. Does anyone know if this is a true notch > filter at 19kHz strictly for knocking out an FM Stereo pilot tone - or is > it a low-pass filter that brickwalls everything above 19kHz? The factory > specs on this deck say its -3dB corner with IEC Type II tape is at 17kHz > anyway. > > -- Steve Sabin > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Feb 22 23:33:06 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Vesselin Uzunov via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2022 17:33:06 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi LX3 References: <52673B28-BF0C-4812-B39D-BB1462B7215D.ref@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <52673B28-BF0C-4812-B39D-BB1462B7215D@yahoo.com> Sent from my iPhone Hello everybody, I need the cassette door cover for my restored Nakamichi LX3 deck. Any help from you guys will be appreciated. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Thu Feb 24 06:23:57 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (G. Fisher via Naktalk) Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2022 05:23:57 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi 480 rebuild: YouTube clips Message-ID: A great four part video was recently uploaded to YT: https://youtu.be/KUXlop7sueg It covers belt and idler tyre replacement, and unfreezing pinch roller arms. There's a bit of capacitor replacement and electronic calibration covered in part four. A very thorough and informative video. I learnt a lot from watching it. My respect for anyone who has rebuilt a classic Nak transport was already quite high, but it went up a couple of notches after watching these clips. Sent from my Galaxy -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Thu Feb 24 12:57:17 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Roland via Naktalk) Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2022 06:57:17 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi 480 rebuild: YouTube clips In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I don't repair decks and I certainly don't understand the nuts and bolts of repair and calibration but I found these videos very interesting.  Thanks for bringing them to attention. On 2/24/2022 12:23 AM, G. Fisher via Naktalk wrote: > > A great four part video was recently uploaded to YT: > https://youtu.be/KUXlop7sueg > > It covers belt and idler tyre replacement, and unfreezing pinch roller > arms. There's a bit of capacitor replacement and electronic > calibration covered in part four. > >  A very thorough and informative video. I learnt a lot from watching > it. My respect for anyone who has rebuilt a classic Nak transport was > already quite high, but it went up a couple of notches after watching > these clips. > > > Sent from my Galaxy > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki!http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here:http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Fri Feb 25 13:42:56 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Roland via Naktalk) Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2022 07:42:56 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon squeak when engaging play, RW or FW References: Message-ID: Years ago, I bought a Dragon in perfect condition but had a squeak when FW or RW was engaged.    I know I saw a video where I had to put a drop of lubricant on the shaft of a gear but I can't seem to find the video. Does anyone know where I might view it again?  I don't have the issue but I viewed a video from a seller on eBay and they have the squeak issue. From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 28 17:00:09 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Michael Chronister via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2022 16:00:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi Repair Document NR-0060 link is Broken. References: <548589990.2295024.1646064009751.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <548589990.2295024.1646064009751@mail.yahoo.com> I'm currently preparing to troubleshoot my left channel amplification issues on my TA-3A. I was digging and found that NR-0060 (Change of transistors 3/15/90) link is broken. Can this document be ignored or is the same subject covered in document  OOD-M-0037 (Change of transistors 2/8/90)? If someone has the first document, would you mind sharing? Also, if anyone here was having intermittent amplification issues in one of their channels, were you successful in repairing the problem and what did you do? I've already recapped this particular Amplifier, so that's out of the way. Thanks. Regards,Mike CCleveland, Ohio -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 28 19:46:36 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Wouter Heijke via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2022 19:46:36 +0100 (CET) Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi Repair Document NR-0060 link is Broken. In-Reply-To: <548589990.2295024.1646064009751@mail.yahoo.com> References: <548589990.2295024.1646064009751.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <548589990.2295024.1646064009751@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1151383597.1143958.1646073996692@ox-webmail.xs4all.nl> Hi, All links to nakremotes were broken and now fixed, try again. Wouter > Op 28-02-2022 17:00 schreef Michael Chronister via Naktalk : > > > I'm currently preparing to troubleshoot my left channel amplification issues on my TA-3A. I was digging and found that NR-0060 (Change of transistors 3/15/90) link is broken. Can this document be ignored or is the same subject covered in document OOD-M-0037 (Change of transistors 2/8/90)? If someone has the first document, would you mind sharing? Also, if anyone here was having intermittent amplification issues in one of their channels, were you successful in repairing the problem and what did you do? I've already recapped this particular Amplifier, so that's out of the way. Thanks. > > Regards, > Mike C > Cleveland, Ohio > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Feb 28 20:10:46 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Michael Chronister via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2022 19:10:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi Repair Document NR-0060 link is Broken. In-Reply-To: <1151383597.1143958.1646073996692@ox-webmail.xs4all.nl> References: <548589990.2295024.1646064009751.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <548589990.2295024.1646064009751@mail.yahoo.com> <1151383597.1143958.1646073996692@ox-webmail.xs4all.nl> Message-ID: <489947404.2366720.1646075446164@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks for doing. It is as i suspected, the data is the same. Regards,Mike C. On Monday, February 28, 2022, 1:45:59 PM EST, Wouter Heijke wrote: Hi, All links to nakremotes were broken and now fixed, try again. Wouter Op 28-02-2022 17:00 schreef Michael Chronister via Naktalk : I'm currently preparing to troubleshoot my left channel amplification issues on my TA-3A. I was digging and found that NR-0060 (Change of transistors 3/15/90) link is broken. Can this document be ignored or is the same subject covered in document  OOD-M-0037 (Change of transistors 2/8/90)? If someone has the first document, would you mind sharing? Also, if anyone here was having intermittent amplification issues in one of their channels, were you successful in repairing the problem and what did you do? I've already recapped this particular Amplifier, so that's out of the way. Thanks. Regards, Mike C Cleveland, Ohio ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Mar 12 00:08:25 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Dwight Price via Naktalk) Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2022 23:08:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Seeking Dragon and RX-505 Original Owner's Manuals In-Reply-To: <489947404.2366720.1646075446164@mail.yahoo.com> References: <548589990.2295024.1646064009751.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <548589990.2295024.1646064009751@mail.yahoo.com> <1151383597.1143958.1646073996692@ox-webmail.xs4all.nl> <489947404.2366720.1646075446164@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <199824743.1667907.1647040105637@mail.yahoo.com> Hi everyone, I've been keeping an eye on the auction site, but I can never seem to catch them when they come up. I figure most of the manuals are already mated to machines, but I just thought I'd ask. TIA for any help... Best to everyone, Dwight Price -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Wed Mar 16 17:51:30 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (David Edwards via Naktalk) Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2022 16:51:30 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] 505 Won't Play Message-ID: <300834ac-98ed-7031-a3ec-23ae909fd5e3@talktalk.net> Hi All, My RX505 just emits a motorised whirring noise when I press play but won't do anything else. They all do that for a second or two before playing, but this won't stop and won't proceed to play anything. It did fast-forward and rewind OK before it got stuck, but now, even if I turn it off at the wall, when I turn it on again, the whirring starts up and none of the other buttons or knobs do anything. I can't actually stop it whirring, and I'm worried I might burn the motor out if I just leave it on, to sort itself out (or not). My questions are: What's likely to be the problem? and, Will a service sort it out, or might it be terminal (considering the scarcity of spares)? Thanks, David Edwards (UK) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Wed Mar 16 18:33:53 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (ricktrumpetman via Naktalk) Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2022 13:33:53 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] 505 Won't Play In-Reply-To: <300834ac-98ed-7031-a3ec-23ae909fd5e3@talktalk.net> Message-ID: <1739889831.2111329.1647452035538@aol.com> Hi David,I wouldn't jump to the "terminal" diagnosis right away.It could be belts, idlers or something similarly related to energy transfer from the motors to the transport.Seek out a technician if you're not comfortable diagnosing it yourself.Best of luck...let us know what you find!DwightSent via the Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone -------- Original message --------From: David Edwards via Naktalk Date: 3/16/22 12:51 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Naktalk Subject: [naktalk] 505 Won't Play Hi All, My RX505 just emits a motorised whirring noise when I press play but won't do anything else. They all do that for a second or two before playing, but this won't stop and won't proceed to play anything. It did fast-forward and rewind OK before it got stuck, but now, even if I turn it off at the wall, when I turn it on again, the whirring starts up and none of the other buttons or knobs do anything. I can't actually stop it whirring, and I'm worried I might burn the motor out if I just leave it on, to sort itself out (or not). My questions are: What's likely to be the problem? and, Will a service sort it out, or might it be terminal (considering the scarcity of spares)? Thanks, David Edwards (UK) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Mar 19 08:06:17 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Martin Short via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2022 20:06:17 +1300 Subject: [naktalk] 505 Won't Play In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <26bc4757-29b0-11c5-6319-73a5a841b183@actrix.co.nz> David, 99% sure that is the mode control belt slipping, hence no action when pressing the control buttons.  A common problem with the classic transport, but also a relatively easy fix too. To check, pop the top and set into play and gently manually assist the control cam. The deck should jump into play with this persuasion. Not an expensive belt to replace. From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Mar 19 11:25:22 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (David Edwards via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2022 10:25:22 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] 505 Won't Play In-Reply-To: <26bc4757-29b0-11c5-6319-73a5a841b183@actrix.co.nz> References: <26bc4757-29b0-11c5-6319-73a5a841b183@actrix.co.nz> Message-ID: <94597213-6564-72f2-1b4b-6fe1e7420c18@talktalk.net> Brilliant, thanks Martin. I'll give it an go. Thanks again, David On 19/03/2022 07:06, Martin Short via Naktalk wrote: > David, > > 99% sure that is the mode control belt slipping, hence no action when > pressing the control buttons.  A common problem with the classic > transport, but also a relatively easy fix too. > > To check, pop the top and set into play and gently manually assist the > control cam. The deck should jump into play with this persuasion. Not > an expensive belt to replace. > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > >          Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: > http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Fri Mar 25 21:21:12 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Ira Gilford via Naktalk) Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2022 13:21:12 -0700 Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi 480 Message-ID: <77A9E43F-0E06-43E5-804F-850C9087F930@fastmail.fm> I recently acquired a non working Nak 480 that I would like to have repaired. It seem’s to never have been opened up and therefor I am looking for an experienced tech with the correct tools and knowhow. Please email me if you know of someone or point me in the right direction. I’m located in Southern California and would prefer delivering it instead of shipping. Thank you. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Mar 26 16:11:40 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Narada Ian via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2022 15:11:40 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi 480 In-Reply-To: <77A9E43F-0E06-43E5-804F-850C9087F930@fastmail.fm> References: <77A9E43F-0E06-43E5-804F-850C9087F930@fastmail.fm> Message-ID: I had the 481 as my first Nak….it was a really. Great sounding deck and very robust build. Good luck > On 25 Mar 2022, at 20:21, Ira Gilford via Naktalk wrote: > > I recently acquired a non working Nak 480 that I would like to have repaired. > It seem’s to never have been opened up and therefor I am looking for an > experienced tech with the correct tools and knowhow. > Please email me if you know of someone or point me in the right direction. > I’m located in Southern California and would prefer delivering it instead of > shipping. > > Thank you. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Mar 27 21:17:06 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Tom Brucker via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2022 14:17:06 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon squeak when engaging play, RW or FW In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Remove the bottom cover. A drop of oil goes on the large cam pulley shaft. Either end is fine. Sent from my iPad > On Feb 25, 2022, at 6:43 AM, Roland via Naktalk wrote: > > Years ago, I bought a Dragon in perfect condition but had a squeak when FW or RW was engaged. I know I saw a video where I had to put a drop of lubricant on the shaft of a gear but I can't seem to find the video. > > Does anyone know where I might view it again? I don't have the issue but I viewed a video from a seller on eBay and they have the squeak issue. > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Mar 28 22:37:21 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Bill Mackintosh via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2022 09:37:21 +1300 Subject: [naktalk] Nak 482 Z In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi all, I have just finished tidying up a nice old 482 Z - replaced orange caps, electrolytics, belts, etc. and it’s now running really nicely. What I need to finish the job is to replace one missing volume (slider) knob. If someone has a spare I would be happy to pay a reasonable price. I believe the knobs from any of the 480 Series deck are the same. Cheers, Bill From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Mar 29 02:37:34 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Ira Gilford via Naktalk) Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2022 17:37:34 -0700 Subject: [naktalk] Nak 482 Z In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9690D5BC-F761-4903-9CD6-2FB829744061@fastmail.fm> Hi Bill, I am looking for the same part. If by any chance you acquire an extra one please let me know. I also would like to know if you could do the same work on my 408. I acquired it about a week ago (not working), opened it up and realized that it must not have been serviced in 40 years. I sure would appreciate it if you would. Please let me know, Thanks, Ira. > On Mar 28, 2022, at 1:37 PM, Bill Mackintosh via Naktalk wrote: > > Hi all, > I have just finished tidying up a nice old 482 Z - replaced orange caps, electrolytics, belts, etc. and it’s now running really nicely. > What I need to finish the job is to replace one missing volume (slider) knob. > If someone has a spare I would be happy to pay a reasonable price. > I believe the knobs from any of the 480 Series deck are the same. > Cheers, Bill > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Mar 29 15:13:58 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Vesselin Uzunov via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2022 09:13:58 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Nak 482 Z In-Reply-To: <9690D5BC-F761-4903-9CD6-2FB829744061@fastmail.fm> References: <9690D5BC-F761-4903-9CD6-2FB829744061@fastmail.fm> Message-ID: I saw those knobs on eBay some time ago. Check Google/eBay for :”slide potentiometers knob”. Good luck! Sent from my iPad > On Mar 28, 2022, at 8:37 PM, Ira Gilford via Naktalk wrote: > > Hi Bill, > I am looking for the same part. If by any chance you acquire an extra one > please let me know. > I also would like to know if you could do the same work on my 408. I acquired > it about a week ago (not working), opened it up and realized that it must not have > been serviced in 40 years. I sure would appreciate it if you would. > Please let me know, > Thanks, Ira. > >> On Mar 28, 2022, at 1:37 PM, Bill Mackintosh via Naktalk wrote: >> >> Hi all, >> I have just finished tidying up a nice old 482 Z - replaced orange caps, electrolytics, belts, etc. and it’s now running really nicely. >> What I need to finish the job is to replace one missing volume (slider) knob. >> If someone has a spare I would be happy to pay a reasonable price. >> I believe the knobs from any of the 480 Series deck are the same. >> Cheers, Bill >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist >> Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= From naktalk at lists.naks.com Thu Mar 31 23:45:17 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Tom Brucker via Naktalk) Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2022 16:45:17 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] April fools Message-ID: Got both of these at Goodwill for $7.50 with my senior discount. Which should I keep? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Apr 9 14:41:58 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (kannan srinivasaraghavan via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2022 12:41:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Any place to get my 670ZX Analog VU meter service- for stuck needle References: <340578138.130333.1649508118032.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <340578138.130333.1649508118032@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Anyone knows where I can get my 670ZX VU meter with one meter suck?I am not very confident to open and try and would like to send tosomeexpert.I am in the US and prefer US based service techKannan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Apr 9 18:05:21 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Dr Doug via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2022 16:05:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Any place to get my 670ZX Analog VU meter service- for stuck needle In-Reply-To: <340578138.130333.1649508118032@mail.yahoo.com> References: <340578138.130333.1649508118032.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <340578138.130333.1649508118032@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1157326595.159920.1649520321723@mail.yahoo.com> You might try tapping gently unless needle is out of place. Willy Herman on west coast or ESL on east coast  Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Saturday, April 9, 2022, 5:42 AM, kannan srinivasaraghavan via Naktalk wrote: Hi Anyone knows where I can get my 670ZX VU meter with one meter suck?I am not very confident to open and try and would like to send tosomeexpert.I am in the US and prefer US based service techKannan========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Apr 9 20:33:52 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Vesselin Uzunov via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2022 14:33:52 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Any place to get my 670ZX Analog VU meter service- for stuck needle In-Reply-To: <1157326595.159920.1649520321723@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1157326595.159920.1649520321723@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Can you describe what is the problem with your VU meter of the 670zx? Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 9, 2022, at 12:05, Dr Doug via Naktalk wrote: > >  You might try tapping gently unless needle is out of place. Willy Herman on west coast or ESL on east coast > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > > On Saturday, April 9, 2022, 5:42 AM, kannan srinivasaraghavan via Naktalk wrote: > > Hi > Anyone knows where I can get my 670ZX VU meter with one meter suck? > I am not very confident to open and try and would like to send tosomeexpert. > I am in the US and prefer US based service tech > Kannan > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Apr 10 15:13:00 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Dwight Price via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2022 13:13:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Any place to get my 670ZX Analog VU meter service- for stuck needle In-Reply-To: References: <1157326595.159920.1649520321723@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <505596927.633211.1649596380027@mail.yahoo.com> Hi, This isn't an uncommon occurrence with certain VU meters. I just went through this with an MC2255, and it turned out to be an intermittent connection on the wire side of a Molex connector and was NOT a fault of the meter itself.This was pretty much the opposite of what I was told by a number of techs, some of which worked at Mac in Binghamton. When it IS the meter, it usually concerns the freezing of the bearing owing to thickened/frozen lubrication.Again, if the deck was not abused. (I.E., the serial and literal burying of the needle with too much input thereby frying the coil.)It can usually be freed by a very gentle (and small movement) exercising of the mounting screw. Don't confuse the bearing screw with the 0dB adjust screw, if your deck has one.  One is usually accessible through the front faceplate.  The other is not. There are a number of YouTube videos that show how it's done. I had to do this with a thrift store acquisition Magnum Dynalab Etude Tuner a few years ago. I freed up the first meter (signal strength) easily. But I had to buy a replacement (Center Tune) meter from MD because that meter's issueswere more severe than the other meter's freezing issue was.  But it cost nothing to try.  What I paid for in the end was "skill acquisition". Using a drop (toothpick/Q-tip applied, NOT squirted through a straw) on the screw can loosen the thickened lubricants-IF that's the problem. The first thing to do is to find out if the meter is the problem, or if the signal (or lack thereof) is the problem. I'm still somewhat new to this list, so I'm not sure what the best practice protocol is, but Perry (when he's able to get to it) is always a great option forfolks who aren't comfortable with DIY options. Good luck! -----Original Message----- From: Vesselin Uzunov via Naktalk To: Dr Doug ; Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Sent: Sat, Apr 9, 2022 2:33 pm Subject: Re: [naktalk] Any place to get my 670ZX Analog VU meter service- for stuck needle Can you describe what is the problem with your VU meter of the 670zx? Sent from my iPhone On Apr 9, 2022, at 12:05, Dr Doug via Naktalk wrote: You might try tapping gently unless needle is out of place. Willy Herman on west coast or ESL on east coast  Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Saturday, April 9, 2022, 5:42 AM, kannan srinivasaraghavan via Naktalk wrote: Hi Anyone knows where I can get my 670ZX VU meter with one meter suck?I am not very confident to open and try and would like to send tosomeexpert.I am in the US and prefer US based service techKannan========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= ========---------------------------------------------------------=========          Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                        Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Apr 10 15:26:49 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Perry.nak via Naktalk) Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2022 09:26:49 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] 670zx stuck meter Message-ID: <6D967CD5-EA97-4665-8D9F-82EB495D29C5@comcast.net> This is actually not that uncommon in the 660/670zx decks. It is almost always a small amount of leaching corrosion on the actual pivot point of the jewel mechanism. (This is regarding IF it is sluggish or not responding in different areas. If it only sticks at full pegged meter, that is a different & rather easy fix.) There is really only about a 60% chance of a permanent long term service repair, (in my experience, having done about 6 of them, as 2 were unrepairable) as once the corrosion has damaged the pivot and the pivot adjustment screw directly above it, it will not be repairable or smooth afterwards if freed up. The screw can not be backed off without damage. If caught early enough that the very tiny sealed screw can be backed off enough to clean it, then the corrosion can be cleaned out and readjusted for good operation. Deoxit or other metal sealant (applied with a sharp toothpick) can be used afterwards (or even Pre-stuck) while the meter is apart to prevent future corrosion. Sent from my iPhone From naktalk at lists.naks.com Tue Apr 19 16:23:12 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Peter Tanner via Naktalk) Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2022 14:23:12 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Nak 582 Message-ID: Hi everybody' I've had a 582 for about 10 years now. Everything is original on it and it has been working very well but lately it occasionally cut out in the middle of playing or recording. I noticed that one of the transistors, the Q420 on the logic board was running very hot. Then eventually it stopped playing or rewinding all together. The control motor works well as well as the capstan motor but the reel motor gets no power to it. All function buttons work and the stop lamp is good too. If anybody has any suggestions or an idea what can be wrong so suddenly, please tell me. It has been a real nice deck even though it's 40 years old. Thanks Peter -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Apr 24 02:07:46 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Joy-Ell & Rainer via Naktalk) Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2022 20:07:46 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon 4066 relay modules Message-ID: <1650758866.99yx5q1vs4k400ow@webmail.sasktel.net> So far so good on the replacement Dragon 4066 chip relay modules! :) I have made another batch and have some available but the price has gone up to $90 USD per set. I think Perry still has a few left, so anyone in the USA and/or wants to ship their deck to Perry for service can contact him. Anyone else can send me an email and I should be able to ship at a reasonable rate as long as you don't want insurance or tracking.  Cheers, Rainer S.  (80stech)   From lists at richardhess.com Wed May 11 00:00:38 2022 From: lists at richardhess.com (Richard L. Hess) Date: Tue, 10 May 2022 18:00:38 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Naks to avoid and options for cassette digitization Message-ID: Hi, All, I am giving a presentation along with Seth Winner and Nick Bergh at the ARSC pre-conference workshop next week about digitizing cassettes. One thing that would be useful would be to provide a list of cassette machines that archivists could use to get above-average playback of cassettes for the purposes of creating digital archives of the information. The first question I have is based on some information that came from Willy Hermann that he no longer accepts Dragons with a serial number under 8,000. Fortunately, my oldest Dragon is 11,9xx and three are 29,xxx, with three more in between. I am VERY CURIOUS as to the WHY of this? Also, are there any other models that have a "Don't buy earlier versions" warning? Nick uses a CR-7 and Seth uses Tascam 122 MK III machines. In a quick browsing of Naks.com's list of machines, it seems that these have pressure pad lifters and are three-head, three-motor decks. Do all of them have the ease of playback head azimuth adjustment that the MR-1 (for example) has? Would you avoid any? Add any? 481Z, 482Z, BX–300, CR–3, CR–4, CR–5, CR–7, DR-10, Dragon, MR–1, ZX–5, and ZX–9 Please don't tell me not to recommend the Tascam -- it is widely used in tape digitization as it was the last major "pro" machine to be made. What other manufacturer and models would you recommend that have relatively easy azimuth adjustment? We don't need XLR outputs, but we need some degree of ruggedness. Finally, has anyone found a USB cassette machine worthy? A Nak and a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 would be my solution to a USB cassette machine on a budget. By the way, in addition to the Dragons, I still have a CR-4 that is quite competent. I sold my four MR-1s to another list member. Cheers, Richard -- Richard L. Hess email:richard at richardhess.com Aurora, Ontario, Canadahttp://www.richardhess.com/ http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ricktrumpetman at aol.com Wed May 11 02:43:29 2022 From: ricktrumpetman at aol.com (Dwight Price) Date: Wed, 11 May 2022 00:43:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Naks to avoid and options for cassette digitization In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1263575263.1861202.1652229809454@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Richard, I would recommend the DR-1 without qualification.  An excellent machine with very easy OTF azimuth manipulation. The BX-300 is excellent as well, but OTF is a bit of a stretch.  You can adjust it in Play mode with the door removed though.  I just wouldn't describe that as a prominent feature of the machine.   I've owned a number of TASCAM machines and liked them, but I wouldn't recommend them over any of the Naks under consideration, but that's just me. Best of luck! Dwight Price -----Original Message----- From: Richard L. Hess via Naktalk To: Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Cc: Richard L. Hess Sent: Tue, May 10, 2022 6:00 pm Subject: [naktalk] Naks to avoid and options for cassette digitization Hi, All, I am giving a presentation along with Seth Winner and Nick Bergh at the ARSC pre-conference workshop next week about digitizing cassettes. One thing that would be useful would be to provide a list of cassette machines that archivists could use to get above-average playback of cassettes for the purposes of creating digital archives of the information. The first question I have is based on some information that came from Willy Hermann that he no longer accepts Dragons with a serial number under 8,000. Fortunately, my oldest Dragon is 11,9xx and three are 29,xxx, with three more in between. I am VERY CURIOUS as to the WHY of this? Also, are there any other models that have a "Don't buy earlier versions" warning? Nick uses a CR-7 and Seth uses Tascam 122 MK III machines. In a quick browsing of Naks.com's list of machines, it seems that these have pressure pad lifters and are three-head, three-motor decks. Do all of them have the ease of playback head azimuth adjustment that the MR-1 (for example) has? Would you avoid any? Add any? 481Z, 482Z, BX–300, CR–3, CR–4, CR–5, CR–7, DR-10, Dragon, MR–1, ZX–5, and ZX–9 Please don't tell me not to recommend the Tascam -- it is widely used in tape digitization as it was the last major "pro" machine to be made. What other manufacturer and models would you recommend that have relatively easy azimuth adjustment? We don't need XLR outputs, but we need some degree of ruggedness. Finally, has anyone found a USB cassette machine worthy? A Nak and a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 would be my solution to a USB cassette machine on a budget. By the way, in addition to the Dragons, I still have a CR-4 that is quite competent. I sold my four MR-1s to another list member. Cheers, Richard -- Richard L. Hess email: richard at richardhess.com Aurora, Ontario, Canada http://www.richardhess.com/ http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes. ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From perry.nak at comcast.net Thu May 12 00:01:50 2022 From: perry.nak at comcast.net (Perry.nak) Date: Wed, 11 May 2022 18:01:50 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Dragons under 8000 Message-ID: <70F58D89-04E0-45A5-B002-691A24BC5E68@comcast.net> The reason some, like Willy, avoid Dragons under 8000 for service is (unless already upgraded by the original owner) they have the smaller diameter take up capstan, and some changes were made on some boards. They also require the reverse time delay update, and often capacitor updates. The older the Dragon, the more likely the chances of play head problems. 8000 puts the deck in late 1983 time frame. Also, the older S/Ns tend to have more transformer induced AC hum (which can be greatly reduced or eliminated with a Mumetal shield. Sent from my iPhone From lists at richardhess.com Thu May 12 02:21:54 2022 From: lists at richardhess.com (Richard L. Hess) Date: Wed, 11 May 2022 20:21:54 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Dragons under 8000 In-Reply-To: <70F58D89-04E0-45A5-B002-691A24BC5E68@comcast.net> References: <70F58D89-04E0-45A5-B002-691A24BC5E68@comcast.net> Message-ID: Thank you very much, Perry! Cheers, Richard On 2022-05-11 6:01 p.m., Perry.nak via Naktalk wrote: > The reason some, like Willy, avoid Dragons under 8000 for service is (unless already upgraded by the original owner) they have the smaller diameter take up capstan, and some changes were made on some boards. They also require the reverse time delay update, and often capacitor updates. The older the Dragon, the more likely the chances of play head problems. 8000 puts the deck in late 1983 time frame. Also, the older S/Ns tend to have more transformer induced AC hum (which can be greatly reduced or eliminated with a Mumetal shield. > > Sent from my iPhone > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki!http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here:http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -- Richard L. Hess email:richard at richardhess.com Aurora, Ontario, Canadahttp://www.richardhess.com/ http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From shoeihell at yahoo.com Thu May 12 03:12:51 2022 From: shoeihell at yahoo.com (Kevin Fetner) Date: Thu, 12 May 2022 01:12:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Naks to avoid and options for cassette digitization References: <2062862995.1299821.1652317971603.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2062862995.1299821.1652317971603@mail.yahoo.com> Richard,You should give budget constraints in your ask? The 700ZXL is a phenomenal deck, built like a tank and has all the features you require and then some.  You won't hear much said about it in here other than the 1000ZXL is "better". I just chalk that up to sour grapes and 'envy/status' issues. The 700ZXL didn't live in the shadow of the 1000ZXL deck, nor was a poor man's substitution. It has its own place in the Nak line and cassette deck history. I have the remote Dolby C unit and the three mics & little mixer if you feel the need to record live. You can save bias an equalization settings for a number of tapes as well.....old transport with the big flywheels etc. By comparison, I have a RX-505. For digitization work that would require significant #'s, my bet would be on the 700ZXL to last the longer of the two without issue. Kevin -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lists at richardhess.com Thu May 12 17:19:34 2022 From: lists at richardhess.com (Richard L. Hess) Date: Thu, 12 May 2022 11:19:34 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Naks to avoid and options for cassette digitization In-Reply-To: <2062862995.1299821.1652317971603@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2062862995.1299821.1652317971603.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2062862995.1299821.1652317971603@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi, Kevin, Thanks! It is good to know that the 1000 ZXL is a heavier-duty transport. I also see there is a restoration blog for it. In general, there are no budget constraints if the case can be made. One archive bought a Studer A810 from me (my last one) and a refurbished Dragon from ESL, so some archives can spend money when they need to. On the other hand, there are archives who cannot afford much. I'm looking to make a list at different price points. Cheers, Richard On 2022-05-11 9:12 p.m., Kevin Fetner via Naktalk wrote: > Richard, > You should give budget constraints in your ask? > > The 700ZXL is a phenomenal deck, built like a tank and has all the > features you require and then some.  You won't hear much said about it > in here other than the 1000ZXL is "better". I just chalk that up to > sour grapes and 'envy/status' issues. The 700ZXL didn't live in the > shadow of the 1000ZXL deck, nor was a poor man's substitution. It has > its own place in the Nak line and cassette deck history. I have the > remote Dolby C unit and the three mics & little mixer if you feel the > need to record live. You can save bias an equalization settings for a > number of tapes as well.....old transport with the big flywheels etc. > By comparison, I have a RX-505. > > For digitization work that would require significant #'s, my bet would > be on the 700ZXL to last the longer of the two without issue. > > Kevin > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki!http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here:http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -- Richard L. Hess email:richard at richardhess.com Aurora, Ontario, Canadahttp://www.richardhess.com/ http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From perry.nak at comcast.net Fri May 13 15:13:50 2022 From: perry.nak at comcast.net (Perry.nak) Date: Fri, 13 May 2022 09:13:50 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Naks to avoid etc Message-ID: The 1000zxl and 700zxl both have identical transports, same as the ZX-7 and 670/680zx/682zx etc. There is nothing special heavy duty about them at all. RX-505 is the same transport as well, but uses slightly lighter flywheels. For playback to archive tapes there is no real reason to use decks that have extensive recording features like the 1000zxl/700zxl or 682zx etc. If those older decks have not had many caps replaced and have been recently serviced, they will be less reliable, have a noisier baseline and less neutral playback Newer Dragons & CR-7 are excellent for that, since both have lower W&F and adjustable or automatic playback azimuth, and use newer Dolby chips & design than the older zxl and zx models. My 2 cents Sent from my iPhone From pfotes at asbcustom.com Fri May 13 01:51:33 2022 From: pfotes at asbcustom.com (pfotes) Date: Thu, 12 May 2022 17:51:33 -0600 Subject: [naktalk] Naks to avoid and options for cassette digitization In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01df01d8665b$36330500$a2990f00$@asbcustom.com> Richard, I’m a long time lurker here but have never really had anything to contribute until now. I have done, and helped others do, large tape collection archives and have some of my own preferences. One of the archive projects I’ve worked on was a room full of mostly poorly recorded talks given by a particular individual. Many of these were made from battery operated portables of no particular quality so had azimuth errors aplenty. I chose Nakamichi 582’s because they were plentiful, reasonable, and anyone could easily tune the azimuth errors and create an acceptable capture. Another preference I have is for the Tascam 112 series in particular even more so than the 122 mklll mentioned. Like the 122’s, the 112 is single capstan of course, which is inherently gentle on old and brittle tape, but also has one of the lowest take up torque and back tension numbers I’ve ever seen. It’s a very reliable belt-driven machine, extremely easy to service, gives nothing up to frequency response, and can be reasonably acquired. The 122 mkll is a better choice than the mklll but commands very high dollars now. They both must also undergo a capstan motor capacitor replacement or will undoubtedly fail at some point. There are many others I’m certain, but I have a lot of experience with these two and can recommend them without hesitation. All the best, Peter From: Naktalk [mailto:naktalk-bounces at lists.naks.com] On Behalf Of Richard L. Hess via Naktalk Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2022 4:01 PM To: Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Cc: Richard L. Hess Subject: [naktalk] Naks to avoid and options for cassette digitization Hi, All, I am giving a presentation along with Seth Winner and Nick Bergh at the ARSC pre-conference workshop next week about digitizing cassettes. One thing that would be useful would be to provide a list of cassette machines that archivists could use to get above-average playback of cassettes for the purposes of creating digital archives of the information. The first question I have is based on some information that came from Willy Hermann that he no longer accepts Dragons with a serial number under 8,000. Fortunately, my oldest Dragon is 11,9xx and three are 29,xxx, with three more in between. I am VERY CURIOUS as to the WHY of this? Also, are there any other models that have a "Don't buy earlier versions" warning? Nick uses a CR-7 and Seth uses Tascam 122 MK III machines. In a quick browsing of Naks.com's list of machines, it seems that these have pressure pad lifters and are three-head, three-motor decks. Do all of them have the ease of playback head azimuth adjustment that the MR-1 (for example) has? Would you avoid any? Add any? 481Z, 482Z, BX–300, CR–3, CR–4, CR–5, CR–7, DR-10, Dragon, MR–1, ZX–5, and ZX–9 Please don't tell me not to recommend the Tascam -- it is widely used in tape digitization as it was the last major "pro" machine to be made. What other manufacturer and models would you recommend that have relatively easy azimuth adjustment? We don't need XLR outputs, but we need some degree of ruggedness. Finally, has anyone found a USB cassette machine worthy? A Nak and a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 would be my solution to a USB cassette machine on a budget. By the way, in addition to the Dragons, I still have a CR-4 that is quite competent. I sold my four MR-1s to another list member. Cheers, Richard -- Richard L. Hess email: richard at richardhess.com Aurora, Ontario, Canada http://www.richardhess.com/ http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: winmail.dat Type: application/ms-tnef Size: 6510 bytes Desc: not available URL: From lists at richardhess.com Fri May 13 22:13:00 2022 From: lists at richardhess.com (Richard L. Hess) Date: Fri, 13 May 2022 16:13:00 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Naks to avoid etc In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi, Perry, Thanks! The general consensus (if there ever is one) in the archival world is that the Dragon and CR-7 are the go-to machines for high-end archiving. The various versions of the TASCAM 122 are also widely used. To be honest, I have transferred relatively few high-end cassettes, and many were mine, made on a Nak 550 and then later a Sony TCD-5M using AKG C451 mics. Most of the important cassettes I am asked to transfer (from an historical standpoint) were made on relatively inexpensive machines by inexperienced operators. It seems that both Marantz bit.ly/37HHyZU and TASCAM bit.ly/3l4TjNc still sell (and possibly even make) cassette machines, but according to this article bit.ly/3wr7T6R even the now $600 Tascam is made with these low-end mechanisms. The Marantz is only $159, and neither is currently in stock at B&H Photo in NY, with the Marantz due in the end of June. I think an older Nak is a much better choice, but some people have to buy new, sadly. I'm not certain that these two machines will perform well enough to get the job done. Richard On 2022-05-13 9:13 a.m., Perry.nak via Naktalk wrote: > The 1000zxl and 700zxl both have identical transports, same as the ZX-7 and 670/680zx/682zx etc. There is nothing special heavy duty about them at all. RX-505 is the same transport as well, but uses slightly lighter flywheels. For playback to archive tapes there is no real reason to use decks that have extensive recording features like the 1000zxl/700zxl or 682zx etc. > > If those older decks have not had many caps replaced and have been recently serviced, they will be less reliable, have a noisier baseline and less neutral playback > Newer Dragons & CR-7 are excellent for that, since both have lower W&F and adjustable or automatic playback azimuth, and use newer Dolby chips & design than the older zxl and zx models. > > My 2 cents > Sent from my iPhone > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki!http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here:http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -- Richard L. Hess email:richard at richardhess.com Aurora, Ontario, Canadahttp://www.richardhess.com/ http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From perry.nak at comcast.net Sat May 14 14:18:18 2022 From: perry.nak at comcast.net (Perry.nak) Date: Sat, 14 May 2022 08:18:18 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Not recommend Dragons under 8000 Message-ID: <85E26AC5-8DD0-44A6-B773-FE7DE69212B5@comcast.net> I cannot speak specifically for Willy, of course, but I can suggest why he decided on that number. He did this for a living and I assume he does it on a smaller scale now, since I think he retired. Dragons under 8000 have or may have the following issues: smaller diameter take up capstan, which, if even slightly bent makes it useless, a build date of 1983 & older, so most likely to have orange cap disease, electrolytic capacitor problems, smaller sized PS caps, worn or defective play back heads, burnt out bulbs and worn motors, and shrunken nylon that may require replacement transport plates or repairs in the form of broken posts, pivots and standoffs. Even older ones may have a missing azimuth spring and many original circuit issues that make NAAC less responsive/reliable and factory added in rats nests of caps & wires. They glued a lot of these components to the trace side and the glue has corroded some traces. All this adds up to more work to begin with, just to find out if the deck is worth restoring, which is a lot of headaches and costs that have to be passed on the customer, even if it is a fail. At this stage, if he is doing repairs, he would want ones that are less challenging and problematic. Like any of us that repair Nakamichis, there are many models we avoid as “sorry, not worth it” as we have a years worth of backlog of even straight forward restores. I don’t repair 1000/700/600/500/550 and other headache decks for the same reasons. However, in terms of performance, a fully restored (not just repaired) Dragon is perfectly fine. I restored one about 12 years ago with a 2000 range serial number. It has operated perfectly for the owner since then. Sent from my iPhone From mortechpr at yahoo.com Sat May 14 14:34:55 2022 From: mortechpr at yahoo.com (Carlos Guzman) Date: Sat, 14 May 2022 12:34:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Not recommend Dragons under 8000 In-Reply-To: <85E26AC5-8DD0-44A6-B773-FE7DE69212B5@comcast.net> References: <85E26AC5-8DD0-44A6-B773-FE7DE69212B5@comcast.net> Message-ID: <533677082.1823588.1652531695729@mail.yahoo.com> Willy has been retired for the last 5 years and now he’s working more than ever and with a backlog of a year. He’s not doing old Dragons, his favorite deck to work on, neither ZXL behemoths. I think one of my 700 ZXE was one of his last ones.  He still in the game, though. He has serviced a lot of my decks in the past, but nowadays I deal with Perry because Virginia is closer to Puerto Rico than California. Best regards, Carlos Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Saturday, May 14, 2022, 8:18 AM, Perry.nak via Naktalk wrote: I cannot speak specifically for Willy, of course, but I can suggest why he decided on that number. He did this for a living and I assume he does it on a smaller scale now, since I think he retired. Dragons under 8000 have or may have the following issues: smaller diameter take up capstan, which, if even slightly bent makes it useless, a build date of 1983 & older, so most likely to have orange cap disease, electrolytic capacitor problems, smaller sized PS caps, worn or defective play back heads, burnt out bulbs and worn motors, and shrunken nylon that may require replacement transport plates or repairs in the form of broken posts, pivots and standoffs. Even older ones may have a missing azimuth spring and many original circuit issues that make NAAC less responsive/reliable and factory added in rats nests of caps & wires. They glued a lot of these components to the trace side and the glue has corroded some traces. All this adds up to more work to begin with, just to find out if the deck is worth restoring, which is a lot of headaches and costs that have to be passed on the customer, even if it is a fail. At this stage, if he is doing repairs, he would want ones that are less challenging and problematic.  Like any of us that repair Nakamichis, there are many models we avoid as “sorry, not worth it” as we have a years worth of backlog of even straight forward restores.  I don’t repair 1000/700/600/500/550 and other headache decks for the same reasons. However, in terms of performance, a fully restored (not just repaired) Dragon is perfectly fine. I restored one about 12 years ago with a 2000 range serial number. It has operated perfectly for the owner since then. Sent from my iPhone ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From shoeihell at yahoo.com Sun May 15 16:27:14 2022 From: shoeihell at yahoo.com (Kevin Fetner) Date: Sun, 15 May 2022 14:27:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Not recommend Dragons under 8000 References: <1801124156.1952778.1652624834188.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1801124156.1952778.1652624834188@mail.yahoo.com> Well then.....I see that most won't touch the 700ZXL now, that's not very comforting.  Willy was the one that lauded the find of my 700ZXL as like finding a '67 427 Vette. He worked on it. It had a hum and went back.....took him forever to find the source of the hum. I guess it's ESL now or nothing if I ever need it repaired again. Probably won't happen in my lifetime, as I'd put that kinda money into a R2R first. Kevin -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josephjean at verizon.net Sun May 15 21:21:18 2022 From: josephjean at verizon.net (Roland) Date: Sun, 15 May 2022 15:21:18 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Not recommend Dragons under 8000 In-Reply-To: <1801124156.1952778.1652624834188@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1801124156.1952778.1652624834188.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1801124156.1952778.1652624834188@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Kevin, I'm a lurker on this board and don't have any technical offerings for anyone. However, I share your concern.  I have two Dragons one of which is in the hand of someone on this board so understand I don't want to share the name. My other very late model Dragon (serial number 19545) appears to have developed a heat issue where on occasion it stops playing only in the reverse direction.  Yup, shows up in the Service Manual. However, even though I did electrical engineering for automated control systems, I'm not qualified to be in their playing with that transistor.  So, I'm at the mercy of an every shrinking pool of 'fix it guys'. Jeff at ESL is a great guy but backlog is 18 months!  However, I live two hours from his shop.  I either do it now or pray that the shrinking pool of service people hasn't dwindled too much. On 5/15/2022 10:27 AM, Kevin Fetner via Naktalk wrote: > Well then.....I see that most won't touch the 700ZXL now, that's not > very comforting.  Willy was the one that lauded the find of my 700ZXL > as like finding a '67 427 Vette. He worked on it. It had a hum and > went back.....took him forever to find the source of the hum. > > I guess it's ESL now or nothing if I ever need it repaired again. > Probably won't happen in my lifetime, as I'd put that kinda money into > a R2R first. > > Kevin > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki!http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here:http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From shoeihell at yahoo.com Mon May 16 15:58:40 2022 From: shoeihell at yahoo.com (Kevin Fetner) Date: Mon, 16 May 2022 13:58:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Not recommend Dragons under 8000 References: <1551562782.2128081.1652709520764.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1551562782.2128081.1652709520764@mail.yahoo.com> Roland,I tell folks there's about 6 people in all of NA who can fix the more complicated Nak decks.....and that's probably being generous. Turnaround time is incredible....doesn't seem to be a way around that. As I get older, that becomes significant. There was a guy on YouTube who always wanted a Nak. He takes you on his 'journey' to buy one. Did all the wrong things....bought on eBay with the promise that it had been 'gone through'. Part of it didn't work, seller refused to fix it, yadda, yadda, yadda. Wound up with another deck, a CR-7a. Had somebody local fix it, but they didn't have the tools to calibrate it etc. I think he's waiting to save enough to submit to ESL. Kevin -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josephjean at verizon.net Sun May 22 14:39:00 2022 From: josephjean at verizon.net (Roland) Date: Sun, 22 May 2022 08:39:00 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Is the CR4 a valuable deck? References: <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35.ref@verizon.net> Message-ID: <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35@verizon.net> I'm just looking for opinion on the CR4.  I've been told that this deck ranks towards the top of the list. I'm assuming a properly aligned and calibrated CR4 comes close to the sonic quality of the Dragon and CR7.  Of course, admittedly, age diminishes the ability to detect subtle differences. For those who own this deck, what is your opinion? I've owned a CR7 in the past and currently own two Dragons and a 600.  I kind of like the 600. From martinferreira at hotmail.com Sun May 22 14:41:45 2022 From: martinferreira at hotmail.com (martin ferreira) Date: Sun, 22 May 2022 12:41:45 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Is the CR4 a valuable deck? In-Reply-To: <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35@verizon.net> References: <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35.ref@verizon.net> <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35@verizon.net> Message-ID: Is it made in Japan? Or Taiwan. I once had a cr3 made in Taiwan and it had constant control motor issues. Martin Ferreira ________________________________ From: Naktalk on behalf of Roland via Naktalk Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2022 1:39 PM To: Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Cc: Roland Subject: [naktalk] Is the CR4 a valuable deck? I'm just looking for opinion on the CR4. I've been told that this deck ranks towards the top of the list. I'm assuming a properly aligned and calibrated CR4 comes close to the sonic quality of the Dragon and CR7. Of course, admittedly, age diminishes the ability to detect subtle differences. For those who own this deck, what is your opinion? I've owned a CR7 in the past and currently own two Dragons and a 600. I kind of like the 600. ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From reddog23 at cox.net Sun May 22 15:40:20 2022 From: reddog23 at cox.net (Ken) Date: Sun, 22 May 2022 08:40:20 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Is the CR4 a valuable deck? In-Reply-To: References: <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35.ref@verizon.net> <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35@verizon.net> Message-ID: <001f01d86de1$7c625d40$752717c0$@cox.net> Japan.... See attached Thx From: Naktalk On Behalf Of martin ferreira via Naktalk Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2022 7:42 AM To: Roland via Naktalk Cc: martin ferreira Subject: Re: [naktalk] Is the CR4 a valuable deck? Is it made in Japan? Or Taiwan. I once had a cr3 made in Taiwan and it had constant control motor issues. Martin Ferreira _____ From: Naktalk > on behalf of Roland via Naktalk > Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2022 1:39 PM To: Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks > Cc: Roland > Subject: [naktalk] Is the CR4 a valuable deck? I'm just looking for opinion on the CR4. I've been told that this deck ranks towards the top of the list. I'm assuming a properly aligned and calibrated CR4 comes close to the sonic quality of the Dragon and CR7. Of course, admittedly, age diminishes the ability to detect subtle differences. For those who own this deck, what is your opinion? I've owned a CR7 in the past and currently own two Dragons and a 600. I kind of like the 600. ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2448289 bytes Desc: not available URL: From reddog23 at cox.net Sun May 22 15:43:22 2022 From: reddog23 at cox.net (Ken) Date: Sun, 22 May 2022 08:43:22 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Is the CR4 a valuable deck? In-Reply-To: References: <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35.ref@verizon.net> <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35@verizon.net> Message-ID: <002501d86de1$e8c20c10$ba462430$@cox.net> Sorry Guys ... Thought this question was in response to an ad I have running for a 680 for sale om Audio Mart My Bad... Need more coffee!!! Ken From: Naktalk On Behalf Of martin ferreira via Naktalk Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2022 7:42 AM To: Roland via Naktalk Cc: martin ferreira Subject: Re: [naktalk] Is the CR4 a valuable deck? Is it made in Japan? Or Taiwan. I once had a cr3 made in Taiwan and it had constant control motor issues. Martin Ferreira _____ From: Naktalk > on behalf of Roland via Naktalk > Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2022 1:39 PM To: Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks > Cc: Roland > Subject: [naktalk] Is the CR4 a valuable deck? I'm just looking for opinion on the CR4. I've been told that this deck ranks towards the top of the list. I'm assuming a properly aligned and calibrated CR4 comes close to the sonic quality of the Dragon and CR7. Of course, admittedly, age diminishes the ability to detect subtle differences. For those who own this deck, what is your opinion? I've owned a CR7 in the past and currently own two Dragons and a 600. I kind of like the 600. ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From perry.nak at comcast.net Mon May 23 15:27:29 2022 From: perry.nak at comcast.net (Perry.nak) Date: Mon, 23 May 2022 09:27:29 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] CR-4 is excellent Message-ID: <1845CE13-1D0F-4A9B-A13E-84498D2568AA@comcast.net> The CR-4 is an excellent deck. The least expensive deck that has the exact same heads and direct drive as the CR-7, and has very good manual adjustment for both level sensitivity and bias via internal test tones and uses the meter to show the correct adjustment. The Japan ones have mostly Nichicon and some Shoei caps. The Taiwan ones usually have Taicon caps. In most all Taicon capped decks from that era (CR-3 &4) there is an extremely common problem with the orange 10uF/25v caps failing on high ESR & very low capacitance. They are the cause of many maladies. The CR-4s often came with incorrect eq resistor values if 5.49 or 6.04k, and an increase to 6.3 or even 6.4k makes a huge difference once the 20kHz level is reset. The internal 20kHz level adjust is a great adjustment missing in most all decks that can really change the character desired and compensate for uneven HF/channel. Most came with gear drive idler already, IIRC. Like many Sankyo decks of that era, the mode and reel motors are subject to dead spot problems and must be rebuilt or replaced. There is an active thread on this at Tapeheads. The only thing I dislike about the CR-4 (and CR-3) is the 1/2 V output. Sent from my iPhone From josephjean at verizon.net Mon May 23 16:05:49 2022 From: josephjean at verizon.net (Roland) Date: Mon, 23 May 2022 10:05:49 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] CR-4 is excellent In-Reply-To: <1845CE13-1D0F-4A9B-A13E-84498D2568AA@comcast.net> References: <1845CE13-1D0F-4A9B-A13E-84498D2568AA@comcast.net> Message-ID: Thanks for this Perry.  I had another respected person who services Naks tell me the very same. I have two Dragons and a 600 but with the prices of the CR7A approaching the stratosphere along with Dragons, a cheaper addition without losing sonic abilities is more in line with what I might be will to pay in the future. Were CR4s manufactured in either Japan or Taiwan indiscriminate of serial numbers? You had me just checking my Dragon for country of manufacture as I've never looked.  Japan. On 5/23/2022 9:27 AM, Perry.nak via Naktalk wrote: > The CR-4 is an excellent deck. The least expensive deck that has the exact same heads and direct drive as the CR-7, and has very good manual adjustment for both level sensitivity and bias via internal test tones and uses the meter to show the correct adjustment. The Japan ones have mostly Nichicon and some Shoei caps. The Taiwan ones usually have Taicon caps. In most all Taicon capped decks from that era (CR-3 &4) there is an extremely common problem with the orange 10uF/25v caps failing on high ESR & very low capacitance. They are the cause of many maladies. > > The CR-4s often came with incorrect eq resistor values if 5.49 or 6.04k, and an increase to 6.3 or even 6.4k makes a huge difference once the 20kHz level is reset. > > The internal 20kHz level adjust is a great adjustment missing in most all decks that can really change the character desired and compensate for uneven HF/channel. > > Most came with gear drive idler already, IIRC. > > Like many Sankyo decks of that era, the mode and reel motors are subject to dead spot problems and must be rebuilt or replaced. There is an active thread on this at Tapeheads. > > The only thing I dislike about the CR-4 (and CR-3) is the 1/2 V output. > > Sent from my iPhone > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= From perry.nak at comcast.net Tue May 24 14:07:59 2022 From: perry.nak at comcast.net (Perry.nak) Date: Tue, 24 May 2022 08:07:59 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] CR-4 serial numbers Message-ID: <1A5BCB7C-6DDF-477E-872C-B9EC11D431C1@comcast.net> No, the origin of manufacturer is serial number based. Decks through 20,000 are made in Taiwan. Decks from 50,000 are Made in Japan. They appear to have skipped from 20,000 to 50,000. Sent from my iPhone From uraldurusu at kozaglobal.com Wed May 25 15:26:22 2022 From: uraldurusu at kozaglobal.com (Ural Durusu) Date: Wed, 25 May 2022 16:26:22 +0300 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon auto reverse Message-ID: Hello, I have a dragon with the symptoms below; 1- When azimuth test tape is loaded it works problem free and the pointer stays at the center indicator for both ways. 2- When the bias test signal is recorded by the deck the pointer also stays at the center position for both ways. 3- If a music is recorded while recording the pointer is at the center. During playback for the forward direction no problem, when I reverse the deck for the same recording head moves to right side and starts to click. If I load a cassette recorded with CR7 it playbacks normally for both directions, and the head swing is more or less even for both directions also. What is the problem here? Best regards Ural Durusu iPhone’umdan gönderildi From perry.nak at comcast.net Thu May 26 14:06:42 2022 From: perry.nak at comcast.net (Perry.nak) Date: Thu, 26 May 2022 13:06:42 +0100 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon Auto reverse azimuth issue Message-ID: This is indeed a strange issue. The azimuth tape is full track, so it works properly in both directions on the Dragon. The CR-7 record head is properly aligned so it works properly in both directions played on the Dragon. A 15kHz recording plays back properly in both directions, but a recording of music made on Dragon only works properly in forward. Therefore, when the dominant frequencies, which are much higher level, are included, then in reverse the Dragon reads the azimuth differently. So it MUST be the setting of the NAAC pot vr702. I would suspect that it is set for perhaps a false azimuth peak, or even possible a full phase out of sync. When the dominant frequencies are say 2k through 6k, the correct in sync waveform is easily read, and NAAC is trying to resolve it. You don’t say what frequency your azimuth tape is. First, assuming good play head alignment, I would first try a say, 10kHz tape in reverse and also a 10kHz PBFR tape in reverse and monitor the two channel waveforms to adjust the vr702 for true peak azimuth on an oscilloscope. Also, you need to check for actual head height via a a Nak height tape in both directions to see how far out height is, in both directions. This is the usual root cause of what you are seeing. It is rare for height to be perfect in both directions with CN-5 disconnected. Usually the right hand guide has to be adjusted to make height as closes as reasonable in both directions. Sent from my iPhone From perry.nak at comcast.net Thu May 26 14:11:57 2022 From: perry.nak at comcast.net (Perry.nak) Date: Thu, 26 May 2022 13:11:57 +0100 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon azimuth issue Message-ID: Also, the record head could be adjusted wrong, same type of issue. I would record different tones of high frequencies and play them back on the CR-7 and see what their relative levels and azimuth are. Record head head height & azimuth needs to be verified at frequencies lower than 15kHz. Sent from my iPhone From MCHRON1 at yahoo.com Thu May 26 14:30:31 2022 From: MCHRON1 at yahoo.com (Michael Chronister) Date: Thu, 26 May 2022 12:30:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Looking for a RM-3TA Schematic References: <912997222.2545689.1653568231451.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <912997222.2545689.1653568231451@mail.yahoo.com> Tragically my TA-3A remote took on water yesterday. I'm hoping that someone has a remote schematic as i'm going to attempt to repair the unit. I'd appreciate any help on this. Thanks,Mike Chronister -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From uraldurusu at kozaglobal.com Thu May 26 15:22:03 2022 From: uraldurusu at kozaglobal.com (Ural Durusu) Date: Thu, 26 May 2022 16:22:03 +0300 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon azimuth issue In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <84F5E43D-CC5E-44C7-B354-35D5FE9B808B@kozaglobal.com> Thank you Perry. I used 2 different azimuth tapes one is 15 kHz for Nakamichi, and the other one 10 kHz(Akai). Best regards Ural Durusu iPhone’umdan gönderildi > Perry.nak via Naktalk şunları yazdı (26 May 2022 15:11): > > Also, the record head could be adjusted wrong, same type of issue. I would record different tones of high frequencies and play them back on the CR-7 and see what their relative levels and azimuth are. Record head head height & azimuth needs to be verified at frequencies lower than 15kHz. > > Sent from my iPhone > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= From nakdoc77 at gmail.com Sat Jun 11 23:44:15 2022 From: nakdoc77 at gmail.com (Tom Brucker) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2022 16:44:15 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Is the CR4 a valuable deck? In-Reply-To: <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35@verizon.net> References: <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35.ref@verizon.net> <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35@verizon.net> Message-ID: The CR4 is a poor man's 7, so you already know what it sounds like. Since you have discovered the joys of the 600, I'd suggest looking for a 680 or something in that series. Another sleeper is the LX5. For some reason, some of them sound outstanding. I can suggest why they vary, but if you get an opportunity to listen before buying, maybe you'll hear the magic. On Sun, May 22, 2022, 7:39 AM Roland via Naktalk wrote: > I'm just looking for opinion on the CR4. I've been told that this deck > ranks towards the top of the list. > > I'm assuming a properly aligned and calibrated CR4 comes close to the > sonic quality of the Dragon and CR7. Of course, admittedly, age > diminishes the ability to detect subtle differences. > > For those who own this deck, what is your opinion? > > I've owned a CR7 in the past and currently own two Dragons and a 600. I > kind of like the 600. > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark8559 at hotmail.com Sun Jun 12 02:22:02 2022 From: mark8559 at hotmail.com (Mark Exstedt) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2022 00:22:02 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Is the CR4 a valuable deck? In-Reply-To: References: <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35.ref@verizon.net> <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35@verizon.net> Message-ID: I also love the sound of the 680 and LX-5. Have both of them ! ________________________________ From: Naktalk on behalf of Tom Brucker via Naktalk Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2022 2:44 PM To: Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Cc: Tom Brucker Subject: Re: [naktalk] Is the CR4 a valuable deck? The CR4 is a poor man's 7, so you already know what it sounds like. Since you have discovered the joys of the 600, I'd suggest looking for a 680 or something in that series. Another sleeper is the LX5. For some reason, some of them sound outstanding. I can suggest why they vary, but if you get an opportunity to listen before buying, maybe you'll hear the magic. On Sun, May 22, 2022, 7:39 AM Roland via Naktalk > wrote: I'm just looking for opinion on the CR4. I've been told that this deck ranks towards the top of the list. I'm assuming a properly aligned and calibrated CR4 comes close to the sonic quality of the Dragon and CR7. Of course, admittedly, age diminishes the ability to detect subtle differences. For those who own this deck, what is your opinion? I've owned a CR7 in the past and currently own two Dragons and a 600. I kind of like the 600. ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josephjean at verizon.net Sun Jun 12 12:15:56 2022 From: josephjean at verizon.net (Roland) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2022 06:15:56 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Is the CR4 a valuable deck? In-Reply-To: References: <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35.ref@verizon.net> <218c15fb-fb5d-036f-d188-5f84f1e0ca35@verizon.net> Message-ID: <27e54f32-4f7a-a591-dc2a-0de33a7601f5@verizon.net> Thanks to all that responded.  I like the looks of the 680 and looked at the LX line too.  I've also owned a BX300 but hated those sliders and needed cleaning too often. I'm not in a position (due to living conditions) to purchase another deck now but given that the CR4 is a poor man's CR7, I'd probably go with that one. Of course, to be considered are non Naks but servicing can be an issue. On 6/11/2022 8:22 PM, Mark Exstedt via Naktalk wrote: > I also love the sound of the 680 and LX-5. Have both of them ! > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Naktalk on behalf of Tom > Brucker via Naktalk > *Sent:* Saturday, June 11, 2022 2:44 PM > *To:* Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks > *Cc:* Tom Brucker > *Subject:* Re: [naktalk] Is the CR4 a valuable deck? > The CR4 is a poor man's 7, so you already know what it sounds like. > Since you have discovered the joys of the 600, I'd suggest looking for > a 680 or something in that series. Another sleeper is the LX5. For > some reason, some of them sound outstanding. I can suggest why they > vary, but if you get an opportunity to listen before buying, maybe > you'll hear the magic. > > On Sun, May 22, 2022, 7:39 AM Roland via Naktalk > wrote: > > I'm just looking for opinion on the CR4.  I've been told that this > deck > ranks towards the top of the list. > > I'm assuming a properly aligned and calibrated CR4 comes close to the > sonic quality of the Dragon and CR7.  Of course, admittedly, age > diminishes the ability to detect subtle differences. > > For those who own this deck, what is your opinion? > > I've owned a CR7 in the past and currently own two Dragons and a > 600.  I > kind of like the 600. > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: > http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki!http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here:http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark8559 at hotmail.com Sun Jun 19 04:21:24 2022 From: mark8559 at hotmail.com (Mark Exstedt) Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2022 02:21:24 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] LX-3 Does Not Record Message-ID: Have an LX-3 that plays well but when I record by pressing REC and PLAY button, the tape does not move. Then perhaps after a while, the tape moves (the unit is now recording), but the record light goes out while recording. At times the right channel meter will go low on its own and then I adjust the meter higher and the meter kicks in. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bernard.boitrel at gmail.com Mon Jun 20 12:17:37 2022 From: bernard.boitrel at gmail.com (boitrel) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2022 12:17:37 +0200 Subject: [naktalk] MB-2 and MB-1S owner and servcie manuals Message-ID: <36e68893-8b3d-09e6-99be-01b800817d3c@gmail.com> Dear all, Hope you are doing good ! May be it is not the best place to ask for CD players documentation but as the wiki official documents already show some, I am trying. I would be interested in all COMPLET documentations about Nakamichi music bank systems MB-1S (owner manual) and MB-2 (owner and service manuals) thanks a lot Bernard From gabrenas at math.utah.edu Mon Jun 20 17:41:53 2022 From: gabrenas at math.utah.edu (Victor Gabrenas) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2022 09:41:53 -0600 Subject: [naktalk] MB-2 and MB-1S owner and servcie manuals In-Reply-To: <36e68893-8b3d-09e6-99be-01b800817d3c@gmail.com> References: <36e68893-8b3d-09e6-99be-01b800817d3c@gmail.com> Message-ID: <7B27B394-F2D4-4672-B8D9-F9A10BD82BBC@math.utah.edu> Have you tried the link below? http://wiki.naks.com Pretty sure I have seen it listed Vic > On Jun 20, 2022, at 4:17 AM, boitrel via Naktalk wrote: > > Dear all, > > Hope you are doing good ! > > May be it is not the best place to ask for CD players documentation but as the wiki official documents already show some, I am trying. > > I would be interested in all COMPLET documentations about Nakamichi music bank systems MB-1S (owner manual) and MB-2 (owner and service manuals) > > thanks a lot > > Bernard > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= From summarex at yahoo.com Wed Jun 22 20:25:20 2022 From: summarex at yahoo.com (Javier Perez) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2022 18:25:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Two issues with a 1000 tri-tracer References: <1857124631.4085235.1655922320028.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1857124631.4085235.1655922320028@mail.yahoo.com> Hi everyone. I'm having two issues with a 1000 series 1 deck. First of all, I get a chattering noise very often on rewind. One of the FF/RW wheels on the sub carriage bounces and the rewind is slow. Sometime it fixes itself, other times I have to stop and reassert rewind. Is that a weak spring or do I need to replace the wheel? The belts are fine. Second: The transport controls don't work when I hook the RCA jacks to my receiver (Mac4280). But if I pull out the jacks it works fine. Ironically, if I assert play and then hook it up to the receiver it plays just fine. I tried to reverse the polarity on the power cord but it still doesn't work when the audio is connected. Is there a quick fix for this? It has to be a polarity or grounding issue. I suppose I could try it with another receiver. Anyway, if anyone has any info on either of these issues, I'd love to hear about it. Thanks Javier From geoffgmfisher at hotmail.com Wed Jul 6 09:19:28 2022 From: geoffgmfisher at hotmail.com (G. Fisher) Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2022 07:19:28 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! Message-ID: Hi everyone. I’m in the final stages of tweaking bias and EQ settings on my old 480, optimising it for TDK AD, SA and MA. With AD and MA I’m obtaining a pretty good response curve on a pink noise test at -20db, with THD distortion figures at 400Hz also within spec. With TDK SA, not at all, there’s a very pronounced HF roll-off in the right channel, as per the screenshot below. I’ve tried it with at least three different TDK SA cassettes from the 70s, 80s and 90s, and the response each time is similar. I can only reduce the roll-off by a few db by severely under-biasing the right channel, and then the THD distortion figure at 400Hz goes through the roof, so that’s not a solution. I’m using the correct bias EQ settings for the tape i.e. the SX button is depressed and 70us EQ selected. I have an identical 480 that does not exhibit this problem with any of my TDK SA test tapes, it will calibrate up just fine. I’m really puzzled about the possible cause of this. Has anyone ever experienced something similar? Geoff Canberra, Australia [cid:image002.png at 01D8915C.832701A0] Sent from Mail for Windows -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 02086961EC414993B7906C2EFD3BB9BB.png Type: image/png Size: 169158 bytes Desc: 02086961EC414993B7906C2EFD3BB9BB.png URL: From lists at richardhess.com Wed Jul 6 16:48:44 2022 From: lists at richardhess.com (Richard L. Hess) Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2022 10:48:44 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <62d5d10f-0850-3f14-2004-b2dcb3684ae3@richardhess.com> Hi, Geoff, The first place I would look is in the circuitry surrounding the SA switch and more likely the switch itself. I'd then expand my search from there. In other words, look only at components that are in the system when you've selected SA. By the way, is that the Anaxwaves T-100 emulator? Cheers, Richard On 2022-07-06 3:19 a.m., G. Fisher via Naktalk wrote: > > Hi everyone. I’m in the final stages of tweaking bias and EQ settings > on my old 480, optimising it for TDK AD, SA and MA. With AD and MA I’m > obtaining a pretty good response curve on a pink noise test at -20db, > with THD distortion figures at 400Hz also within spec. With TDK SA, > not at all, there’s a very pronounced HF roll-off in the right > channel, as per the screenshot below. I’ve tried it with at least > three different TDK SA cassettes from the 70s, 80s and 90s, and the > response each time is similar. I can only reduce the roll-off by a few > db by severely under-biasing the right channel, and then the THD > distortion figure at 400Hz goes through the roof, so that’s not a > solution. I’m using the correct bias EQ settings for the tape i.e. the > SX button is depressed and 70us EQ selected. > > I have an identical 480 that does not exhibit this problem with any of > my TDK SA test tapes, it will calibrate up just fine. > > I’m really puzzled about the possible cause of this. Has anyone ever > experienced something similar? > > Geoff > > Canberra, Australia > > Sent from Mail for > Windows > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki!http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here:http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -- Richard L. Hess email:richard at richardhess.com Aurora, Ontario, Canadahttp://www.richardhess.com/ http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 02086961EC414993B7906C2EFD3BB9BB.png Type: image/png Size: 169158 bytes Desc: not available URL: From geoffgmfisher at hotmail.com Thu Jul 7 00:51:36 2022 From: geoffgmfisher at hotmail.com (G. Fisher) Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2022 22:51:36 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! In-Reply-To: <62d5d10f-0850-3f14-2004-b2dcb3684ae3@richardhess.com> References: <62d5d10f-0850-3f14-2004-b2dcb3684ae3@richardhess.com> Message-ID: That’s an excellent idea, thanks very much Richard. And yes, I’m using the Anaxwaves T-100 software emulator. I find it a great help, especially since I have no test equipment other than a digital multimeter. I occasionally have to restart the software if I start to see odd behaviour, but the same could be said of a lot of the software running on my Windows 10 PC. Regards, Geoff Sent from Mail for Windows From: Richard L. Hess via Naktalk Sent: Thursday, 7 July 2022 4:42 AM To: G. Fisher via Naktalk Cc: Richard L. Hess Subject: Re: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! Hi, Geoff, The first place I would look is in the circuitry surrounding the SA switch and more likely the switch itself. I'd then expand my search from there. In other words, look only at components that are in the system when you've selected SA. By the way, is that the Anaxwaves T-100 emulator? Cheers, Richard On 2022-07-06 3:19 a.m., G. Fisher via Naktalk wrote: Hi everyone. I’m in the final stages of tweaking bias and EQ settings on my old 480, optimising it for TDK AD, SA and MA. With AD and MA I’m obtaining a pretty good response curve on a pink noise test at -20db, with THD distortion figures at 400Hz also within spec. With TDK SA, not at all, there’s a very pronounced HF roll-off in the right channel, as per the screenshot below. I’ve tried it with at least three different TDK SA cassettes from the 70s, 80s and 90s, and the response each time is similar. I can only reduce the roll-off by a few db by severely under-biasing the right channel, and then the THD distortion figure at 400Hz goes through the roof, so that’s not a solution. I’m using the correct bias EQ settings for the tape i.e. the SX button is depressed and 70us EQ selected. I have an identical 480 that does not exhibit this problem with any of my TDK SA test tapes, it will calibrate up just fine. I’m really puzzled about the possible cause of this. Has anyone ever experienced something similar? Geoff Canberra, Australia [cid:part1.W4igHqxb.gGQxytcM at richardhess.com] Sent from Mail for Windows ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -- Richard L. Hess email: richard at richardhess.com Aurora, Ontario, Canada http://www.richardhess.com/ http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 02086961EC414993B7906C2EFD3BB9BB.png Type: image/png Size: 169158 bytes Desc: 02086961EC414993B7906C2EFD3BB9BB.png URL: From mk.harris1 at virginmedia.com Thu Jul 7 08:41:42 2022 From: mk.harris1 at virginmedia.com (Mark Harris) Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2022 07:41:42 +0100 Subject: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2D21DF8C-937D-45CB-9962-9596C8661F82@virginmedia.com> Hi Geoff, I would certainly be looking for failed components/dirty switching in that circuit. I would guess that Nakamichi never imagined we would still be using and repairing these legendary decks some 40+ years on. I have two 480’s of my own in the workshop along with 580’s, 581’s and 582’s that I will get around to restoring at some point! 😂 Regards, Mark Hifi Wales Sent from my iPhone > On 7 Jul 2022, at 06:39, G. Fisher via Naktalk wrote: > >  > That’s an excellent idea, thanks very much Richard. And yes, I’m using the Anaxwaves T-100 software emulator. I find it a great help, especially since I have no test equipment other than a digital multimeter. I occasionally have to restart the software if I start to see odd behaviour, but the same could be said of a lot of the software running on my Windows 10 PC. > > Regards, > > Geoff > > > > > Sent from Mail for Windows > > From: Richard L. Hess via Naktalk > Sent: Thursday, 7 July 2022 4:42 AM > To: G. Fisher via Naktalk > Cc: Richard L. Hess > Subject: Re: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! > > Hi, Geoff, > > The first place I would look is in the circuitry surrounding the SA switch and more likely the switch itself. I'd then expand my search from there. In other words, look only at components that are in the system when you've selected SA. > > By the way, is that the Anaxwaves T-100 emulator? > > Cheers, > > Richard > > On 2022-07-06 3:19 a.m., G. Fisher via Naktalk wrote: > Hi everyone. I’m in the final stages of tweaking bias and EQ settings on my old 480, optimising it for TDK AD, SA and MA. With AD and MA I’m obtaining a pretty good response curve on a pink noise test at -20db, with THD distortion figures at 400Hz also within spec. With TDK SA, not at all, there’s a very pronounced HF roll-off in the right channel, as per the screenshot below. I’ve tried it with at least three different TDK SA cassettes from the 70s, 80s and 90s, and the response each time is similar. I can only reduce the roll-off by a few db by severely under-biasing the right channel, and then the THD distortion figure at 400Hz goes through the roof, so that’s not a solution. I’m using the correct bias EQ settings for the tape i.e. the SX button is depressed and 70us EQ selected. > > I have an identical 480 that does not exhibit this problem with any of my TDK SA test tapes, it will calibrate up just fine. > > I’m really puzzled about the possible cause of this. Has anyone ever experienced something similar? > > Geoff > Canberra, Australia > > > > > > Sent from Mail for Windows > > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > -- > Richard L. Hess email: richard at richardhess.com > Aurora, Ontario, Canada http://www.richardhess.com/ > http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm > Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes. > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 02086961EC414993B7906C2EFD3BB9BB.png Type: image/png Size: 169158 bytes Desc: not available URL: From geoffgmfisher at hotmail.com Thu Jul 7 09:55:26 2022 From: geoffgmfisher at hotmail.com (G. Fisher) Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2022 07:55:26 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! In-Reply-To: <2D21DF8C-937D-45CB-9962-9596C8661F82@virginmedia.com> References: <2D21DF8C-937D-45CB-9962-9596C8661F82@virginmedia.com> Message-ID: Thanks very much Mark. And yes, it's quite incredible that we can still be breathing life back into these decks some 40 years on. It's such a buzz when one can be brought back from the dead! Regards, Geoff Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: Mark Harris via Naktalk Date: 7/7/22 4:54 pm (GMT+10:00) To: Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Cc: Mark Harris Subject: Re: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! Hi Geoff, I would certainly be looking for failed components/dirty switching in that circuit. I would guess that Nakamichi never imagined we would still be using and repairing these legendary decks some 40+ years on. I have two 480’s of my own in the workshop along with 580’s, 581’s and 582’s that I will get around to restoring at some point! 😂 Regards, Mark Hifi Wales Sent from my iPhone On 7 Jul 2022, at 06:39, G. Fisher via Naktalk wrote:  That’s an excellent idea, thanks very much Richard. And yes, I’m using the Anaxwaves T-100 software emulator. I find it a great help, especially since I have no test equipment other than a digital multimeter. I occasionally have to restart the software if I start to see odd behaviour, but the same could be said of a lot of the software running on my Windows 10 PC. Regards, Geoff Sent from Mail for Windows From: Richard L. Hess via Naktalk Sent: Thursday, 7 July 2022 4:42 AM To: G. Fisher via Naktalk Cc: Richard L. Hess Subject: Re: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! Hi, Geoff, The first place I would look is in the circuitry surrounding the SA switch and more likely the switch itself. I'd then expand my search from there. In other words, look only at components that are in the system when you've selected SA. By the way, is that the Anaxwaves T-100 emulator? Cheers, Richard On 2022-07-06 3:19 a.m., G. Fisher via Naktalk wrote: Hi everyone. I’m in the final stages of tweaking bias and EQ settings on my old 480, optimising it for TDK AD, SA and MA. With AD and MA I’m obtaining a pretty good response curve on a pink noise test at -20db, with THD distortion figures at 400Hz also within spec. With TDK SA, not at all, there’s a very pronounced HF roll-off in the right channel, as per the screenshot below. I’ve tried it with at least three different TDK SA cassettes from the 70s, 80s and 90s, and the response each time is similar. I can only reduce the roll-off by a few db by severely under-biasing the right channel, and then the THD distortion figure at 400Hz goes through the roof, so that’s not a solution. I’m using the correct bias EQ settings for the tape i.e. the SX button is depressed and 70us EQ selected. I have an identical 480 that does not exhibit this problem with any of my TDK SA test tapes, it will calibrate up just fine. I’m really puzzled about the possible cause of this. Has anyone ever experienced something similar? Geoff Canberra, Australia [02086961EC414993B7906C2EFD3BB9BB.png] Sent from Mail for Windows ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -- Richard L. Hess email: richard at richardhess.com Aurora, Ontario, Canada http://www.richardhess.com/ http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes. ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 02086961EC414993B7906C2EFD3BB9BB.png Type: image/png Size: 169158 bytes Desc: 02086961EC414993B7906C2EFD3BB9BB.png URL: From johngipps at aol.com Thu Jul 7 16:57:45 2022 From: johngipps at aol.com (johngipps at aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2022 14:57:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! (G. Fisher) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <43139452.3228699.1657205865791@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Geoff One other factor that might be causing your problem with SA is head wear. In my experience, it's easier to get good results from a worn R/P head in a two head Nakamichi with lower bias tapes, and with higher bias tapes, a worn R/P head will give a result with increased THD. While the satisfactory results you are obtaining with MA seem to contradict this, it might be the case that an OK result with MA has been achieved at the expense of higher than normal distortion. So if your other 480 not only works well on SA, but also scores significantly better THD on MA than your problem 480, then my hunch would be that your problem 480 has an R/P head in worse condition. If this does turn out to be the problem, better subjective results will be achieved with the worn head by ajusting bias on SA to a point where distortion is acceptable, at the expense of a less impressive frequency response. Cheers John Gipps  1. My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! (G. Fisher) Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2022 07:19:28 +0000 From: "G. Fisher" To: Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks Subject: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! Message-ID:         Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Hi everyone. I’m in the final stages of tweaking bias and EQ settings on my old 480, optimising it for TDK AD, SA and MA. With AD and MA I’m obtaining a pretty good response curve on a pink noise test at -20db, with THD distortion figures at 400Hz also within spec. With TDK SA, not at all, there’s a very pronounced HF roll-off in the right channel, as per the screenshot below. I’ve tried it with at least three different TDK SA cassettes from the 70s, 80s and 90s, and the response each time is similar. I can only reduce the roll-off by a few db by severely under-biasing the right channel, and then the THD distortion figure at 400Hz goes through the roof, so that’s not a solution. I’m using the correct bias EQ settings for the tape i.e. the SX button is depressed and 70us EQ selected. I have an identical 480 that does not exhibit this problem with any of my TDK SA test tapes, it will calibrate up just fine. I’m really puzzled about the possible cause of this. Has anyone ever experienced something similar? Geoff Canberra, Australia [cid:image002.png at 01D8915C.832701A0] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lists at richardhess.com Thu Jul 7 17:45:16 2022 From: lists at richardhess.com (Richard L. Hess) Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2022 11:45:16 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! (G. Fisher) In-Reply-To: <43139452.3228699.1657205865791@mail.yahoo.com> References: <43139452.3228699.1657205865791@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9d941991-fe5d-d304-9d9c-504c2d614d07@richardhess.com> That is an elegant theory, John. I thought briefly about it before making my original suggestion, but what I question is that the RIGHT channel is the one that is down. I usually see problems manifest on the edge tracks before the centre tracks, but that experience is mostly in reel-to-reel--and I use tape in playback only mode. I'm trying to understand the mechanics of what you're suggesting--I guess if the gap somehow widened that might be a factor, but I can't see how that would be SA only. Cheers, Richard On 2022-07-07 10:57 a.m., John Gipps via Naktalk wrote: > Hi Geoff > > One other factor that might be causing your problem with SA is head > wear. In my experience, it's easier to get good results from a worn > R/P head in a two head Nakamichi with lower bias tapes, and with > higher bias tapes, a worn R/P head will give a result with increased > THD. While the satisfactory results you are obtaining with MA seem to > contradict this, it might be the case that an OK result with MA has > been achieved at the expense of higher than normal distortion. So if > your other 480 not only works well on SA, but also scores > significantly better THD on MA than your problem 480, then my hunch > would be that your problem 480 has an R/P head in worse condition. If > this does turn out to be the problem, better subjective results will > be achieved with the worn head by ajusting bias on SA to a point where > distortion is acceptable, at the expense of a less impressive > frequency response. > > Cheers > > John Gipps > > > >  1. My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! (G. Fisher) > > Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2022 07:19:28 +0000 > From: "G. Fisher" > To: Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks > Subject: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! > Message-ID: >     > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" > > Hi everyone. I’m in the final stages of tweaking bias and EQ settings > on my old 480, optimising it for TDK AD, SA and MA. With AD and MA I’m > obtaining a pretty good response curve on a pink noise test at -20db, > with THD distortion figures at 400Hz also within spec. With TDK SA, > not at all, there’s a very pronounced HF roll-off in the right > channel, as per the screenshot below. I’ve tried it with at least > three different TDK SA cassettes from the 70s, 80s and 90s, and the > response each time is similar. I can only reduce the roll-off by a few > db by severely under-biasing the right channel, and then the THD > distortion figure at 400Hz goes through the roof, so that’s not a > solution. I’m using the correct bias EQ settings for the tape i.e. the > SX button is depressed and 70us EQ selected. > > I have an identical 480 that does not exhibit this problem with any of > my TDK SA test tapes, it will calibrate up just fine. > > I’m really puzzled about the possible cause of this. Has anyone ever > experienced something similar? > > Geoff > Canberra, Australia > > [cid:image002.png at 01D8915C.832701A0] > > > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki!http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here:http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -- Richard L. Hess email:richard at richardhess.com Aurora, Ontario, Canadahttp://www.richardhess.com/ http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From geoffgmfisher at hotmail.com Fri Jul 8 00:57:28 2022 From: geoffgmfisher at hotmail.com (G. Fisher) Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2022 22:57:28 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! (G. Fisher) In-Reply-To: <43139452.3228699.1657205865791@mail.yahoo.com> References: <43139452.3228699.1657205865791@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks very much John. Head wear was my first thought but I did think it would affect all tape types equally, so I eliminated it. But you've given me a different perspective on it now, so I will investigate it if the other theories about issues in the SX circuit or switch don't uncover the problem. Thanks again. Regards, Geoff Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: John Gipps via Naktalk Date: 8/7/22 1:23 am (GMT+10:00) To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Cc: johngipps at aol.com Subject: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! (G. Fisher) Hi Geoff One other factor that might be causing your problem with SA is head wear. In my experience, it's easier to get good results from a worn R/P head in a two head Nakamichi with lower bias tapes, and with higher bias tapes, a worn R/P head will give a result with increased THD. While the satisfactory results you are obtaining with MA seem to contradict this, it might be the case that an OK result with MA has been achieved at the expense of higher than normal distortion. So if your other 480 not only works well on SA, but also scores significantly better THD on MA than your problem 480, then my hunch would be that your problem 480 has an R/P head in worse condition. If this does turn out to be the problem, better subjective results will be achieved with the worn head by ajusting bias on SA to a point where distortion is acceptable, at the expense of a less impressive frequency response. Cheers John Gipps 1. My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! (G. Fisher) Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2022 07:19:28 +0000 From: "G. Fisher" > To: Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks > Subject: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Hi everyone. I’m in the final stages of tweaking bias and EQ settings on my old 480, optimising it for TDK AD, SA and MA. With AD and MA I’m obtaining a pretty good response curve on a pink noise test at -20db, with THD distortion figures at 400Hz also within spec. With TDK SA, not at all, there’s a very pronounced HF roll-off in the right channel, as per the screenshot below. I’ve tried it with at least three different TDK SA cassettes from the 70s, 80s and 90s, and the response each time is similar. I can only reduce the roll-off by a few db by severely under-biasing the right channel, and then the THD distortion figure at 400Hz goes through the roof, so that’s not a solution. I’m using the correct bias EQ settings for the tape i.e. the SX button is depressed and 70us EQ selected. I have an identical 480 that does not exhibit this problem with any of my TDK SA test tapes, it will calibrate up just fine. I’m really puzzled about the possible cause of this. Has anyone ever experienced something similar? Geoff Canberra, Australia [cid:image002.png at 01D8915C.832701A0] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johngipps at aol.com Fri Jul 8 18:57:39 2022 From: johngipps at aol.com (johngipps at aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 16:57:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! (G. Fisher) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1507631932.3775266.1657299459987@mail.yahoo.com>  Hi Richard It may or may not be the cause of Geoff's problem, but it isn't so much an elegant theory, as a well and truly proven observation over decades of adjusting Nak decks and dealing with dozens of decks with worn or damaged heads. Any head significantly worn, or with corrosion or other surface damage in the vicinity of the head gaps, will show a premature roll off in high frequency response. Whether it's on both channels, or just L, or just R, depends on the wear pattern or on the position of surface damage or corrosion. When you adjust the bias on such a deck, if your goal in adjusting bias is to achieve the best frequency response that you can, then you tend to under-bias the deck, and this lifts the high frequency response to compensate for the premature roll off. Unfortunately, under-biasing also causes an increase in THD. Over a long period,and with a lot of decks, I have observed that the effect is more pronounced on higher bias tapes. When there is head damage or wear, the best subjective results on any tape, in my experience, are obtained by adjusting the bias so as to keep the THD to a reasonable value. Under-bias a little, but not at the cost of too much THD. At the end of the day, losing a few KHz of response is far better subjectively than accepting too much THD. Cheers John Gipps    Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2022 11:45:16 -0400 From: "Richard L. Hess" To: John Gipps via Naktalk Subject: Re: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! (G.     Fisher) Message-ID: <9d941991-fe5d-d304-9d9c-504c2d614d07 at richardhess.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" That is an elegant theory, John. I thought briefly about it before making my original suggestion, but what I question is that the RIGHT channel is the one that is down. I usually see problems manifest on the edge tracks before the centre tracks, but that experience is mostly in reel-to-reel--and I use tape in playback only mode. I'm trying to understand the mechanics of what you're suggesting--I guess if the gap somehow widened that might be a factor, but I can't see how that would be SA only. Cheers, Richard On 2022-07-07 10:57 a.m., John Gipps via Naktalk wrote: > Hi Geoff > > One other factor that might be causing your problem with SA is head > wear. In my experience, it's easier to get good results from a worn > R/P head in a two head Nakamichi with lower bias tapes, and with > higher bias tapes, a worn R/P head will give a result with increased > THD. While the satisfactory results you are obtaining with MA seem to > contradict this, it might be the case that an OK result with MA has > been achieved at the expense of higher than normal distortion. So if > your other 480 not only works well on SA, but also scores > significantly better THD on MA than your problem 480, then my hunch > would be that your problem 480 has an R/P head in worse condition. If > this does turn out to be the problem, better subjective results will > be achieved with the worn head by ajusting bias on SA to a point where > distortion is acceptable, at the expense of a less impressive > frequency response. > > Cheers > > John Gipps -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kannan_srinivasa at yahoo.com Fri Jul 8 19:25:45 2022 From: kannan_srinivasa at yahoo.com (kannan srinivasaraghavan) Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 17:25:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] My old 480 doesn't like chrome tapes! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1699206309.2942788.1657301145232@mail.yahoo.com> This is clearly record circuit problem - if MA tape is working and showing correct response, this would be related Type II Record equalization circuit probably a Capacitor.Bias Trap is common and only part will be related Level and Bias adjusting circuits in Nak. Simply replace capacitors as a first stepkannan  On Wednesday, July 6, 2022 at 02:21:08 AM CDT, G. Fisher via Naktalk wrote: Hi everyone. I’m in the final stages of tweaking bias and EQ settings on my old 480, optimising it for TDK AD, SA and MA. With AD and MA I’m obtaining a pretty good response curve on a pink noise test at -20db, with THD distortion figures at 400Hz also within spec. With TDK SA, not at all, there’s a very pronounced HF roll-off in the right channel, as per the screenshot below. I’ve tried it with at least three different TDK SA cassettes from the 70s, 80s and 90s, and the response each time is similar. I can only reduce the roll-off by a few db by severely under-biasing the right channel, and then the THD distortion figure at 400Hz goes through the roof, so that’s not a solution. I’m using the correct bias EQ settings for the tape i.e. the SX button is depressed and 70us EQ selected.   I have an identical 480 that does not exhibit this problem with any of my TDK SA test tapes, it will calibrate up just fine.   I’m really puzzled about the possible cause of this. Has anyone ever experienced something similar?   Geoff Canberra, Australia         Sent from Mail for Windows   ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 02086961EC414993B7906C2EFD3BB9BB.png Type: image/png Size: 169158 bytes Desc: not available URL: From horsestuff at zipnet.us Thu Jul 21 23:19:37 2022 From: horsestuff at zipnet.us (horsestuff Administrator) Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2022 17:19:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi RX 202 Recording and Play back issues Message-ID: <7180761.94651280.1658438377759.JavaMail.zimbra@zipnet.us> Recently purchased a Nakamichi RX 202 that didn't work. I replaced the idler tire now fast forward rewind and play work. The issue im having is when you record the recording volume is really low even though i set the recording level to +3db. The meters don't even move when you play the recorded material. One other issue is when you play one of my pre recorded tapes Sony ES and TDK SAx the bass sounds muffled. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks Al PS I already cleaned the heads, capstans and pinch rollers several times using S-721H cleaning fluid -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From MCHRON1 at yahoo.com Thu Jul 28 19:29:09 2022 From: MCHRON1 at yahoo.com (Michael Chronister) Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 17:29:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Need to Source NEC Chip for TA-3A Remote References: <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762@mail.yahoo.com> A while back my RM-3TA remote for my TA-3A took an unwanted bath rendering the remote inoperable. Troubleshooting has led to the conclusion that the microchip (NEC uPD6125A) has failed. Source voltage reaches the chip, unfortunately the chip is no longer oscillating. I'd like to source this chip, however, i'm not finding anything through my normal electronics parts channels. If anyone could shed some light on this IC Chip, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance,Mike C. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nakdoc77 at gmail.com Thu Jul 28 19:47:55 2022 From: nakdoc77 at gmail.com (Tom Brucker) Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 12:47:55 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Need to Source NEC Chip for TA-3A Remote In-Reply-To: <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The ic should be ok. You may need to remove it to clean residue. Oscillation failure is the 440kHz ceramic filter. These are used in every older remote. On Thu, Jul 28, 2022, 12:29 PM Michael Chronister via Naktalk < naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > A while back my RM-3TA remote for my TA-3A took an unwanted bath rendering > the remote inoperable. Troubleshooting has led to the conclusion that the > microchip (NEC uPD6125A) has failed. Source voltage reaches the chip, > unfortunately the chip is no longer oscillating. I'd like to source this > chip, however, i'm not finding anything through my normal electronics parts > channels. If anyone could shed some light on this IC Chip, it would be > greatly appreciated. > > Thanks in advance, > Mike C. > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jdcolombo at gmail.com Thu Jul 28 19:51:20 2022 From: jdcolombo at gmail.com (John Colombo) Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 12:51:20 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Need to Source NEC Chip for TA-3A Remote In-Reply-To: <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <15508080-EF45-48D1-ADF3-D4B6284664B0@gmail.com> HI Michael. You might want to post this question on the Cassette forum at Tapeheads.net Tapeheads has several dedicated Nakamichi techs that post there, including ones from Europe that sometimes have access to parts that are harder to find in the US. There’s a LOT more Nakamichi repair traffic on Tapeheads than on NakTalk these days . . . John Colombo (not a tech, just a Nak owner). > On Jul 28, 2022, at 12:29 PM, Michael Chronister via Naktalk wrote: > > A while back my RM-3TA remote for my TA-3A took an unwanted bath rendering the remote inoperable. Troubleshooting has led to the conclusion that the microchip (NEC uPD6125A) has failed. Source voltage reaches the chip, unfortunately the chip is no longer oscillating. I'd like to source this chip, however, i'm not finding anything through my normal electronics parts channels. If anyone could shed some light on this IC Chip, it would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks in advance, > Mike C. > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kslwinter at gmail.com Thu Jul 28 20:22:07 2022 From: kslwinter at gmail.com (kslwinter at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 14:22:07 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Need to Source NEC Chip for TA-3A Remote In-Reply-To: <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <016501d8a2ae$f21e2260$d65a6720$@gmail.com> There are some on Ebay… They have another number following a dash…could be specific programming for that chip… From: Naktalk On Behalf Of Michael Chronister via Naktalk Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2022 1:29 PM To: Talk About Nakamichi Cassette Decks Cc: Michael Chronister Subject: [naktalk] Need to Source NEC Chip for TA-3A Remote A while back my RM-3TA remote for my TA-3A took an unwanted bath rendering the remote inoperable. Troubleshooting has led to the conclusion that the microchip (NEC uPD6125A) has failed. Source voltage reaches the chip, unfortunately the chip is no longer oscillating. I'd like to source this chip, however, i'm not finding anything through my normal electronics parts channels. If anyone could shed some light on this IC Chip, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Mike C. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From MCHRON1 at yahoo.com Thu Jul 28 20:32:23 2022 From: MCHRON1 at yahoo.com (Michael Chronister) Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 18:32:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Need to Source NEC Chip for TA-3A Remote In-Reply-To: <016501d8a2ae$f21e2260$d65a6720$@gmail.com> References: <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762@mail.yahoo.com> <016501d8a2ae$f21e2260$d65a6720$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1501195338.2709355.1659033143350@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Everyone for the feedback. It is true that the three digit suffix pertains to programming. In my case that suffix is .573. Cheers,Mike C On Thursday, July 28, 2022 at 02:26:48 PM EDT, Bluaud via Naktalk wrote: There are some on Ebay… They have another number following a dash…could be specific programming for that chip…   From: Naktalk On Behalf Of Michael Chronister via Naktalk Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2022 1:29 PM To: Talk About Nakamichi Cassette Decks Cc: Michael Chronister Subject: [naktalk] Need to Source NEC Chip for TA-3A Remote   A while back my RM-3TA remote for my TA-3A took an unwanted bath rendering the remote inoperable. Troubleshooting has led to the conclusion that the microchip (NEC uPD6125A) has failed. Source voltage reaches the chip, unfortunately the chip is no longer oscillating. I'd like to source this chip, however, i'm not finding anything through my normal electronics parts channels. If anyone could shed some light on this IC Chip, it would be greatly appreciated.   Thanks in advance, Mike C.   ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ricktrumpetman at aol.com Sat Jul 30 20:47:46 2022 From: ricktrumpetman at aol.com (Dwight Price) Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2022 18:47:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Seeking assistance with Dragon frozen grease/pinch roller issue In-Reply-To: <1501195338.2709355.1659033143350@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762@mail.yahoo.com> <016501d8a2ae$f21e2260$d65a6720$@gmail.com> <1501195338.2709355.1659033143350@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1859325359.4301070.1659206866559@mail.yahoo.com> Hi everyone, My messages tend to be too long. Just know I'm trying to do better with screed length.  : - ) It's funny how the advantage of more than one of something (like eyes, ears, or in this case a tape deck) lends insight into understanding. I lucked into a Dragon about fifteen years ago and had great luck restoring it to full functionality.  It was an earlier unit but gave great service until a year or so ago. With the pandemic and a number of health issues in the family, I didn't listen to it as often as I had for most of the time I've owned it and apparently the pinch rollers seized for a second time.  They were seized when I first acquired it, but were freed with very little effort. I didn't recall what was going on at first.  But, I believe through retroactive analysis, it to have contributed an issue with the door not operating properly when I tried to either remove a tape or insert a tape.  (The deck is located just above eye level which precludes being able to easily see the entirety of the cassette well.) I got the pinch rollers going again, and it didn't take very much in the way of coaxing, but now I know what the issue is and how it presents. I was able to repair the door using a phono cartridge screw and all's well with that machine now.  (But it still needs to be gone through-I'm on Perry's waiting list.) Even with that experience, I wasn't prepared for what I've encountered with a second Dragon I recently acquired.  Everything was locked up TIGHT. I've restored the fast wind functions, and the head block is now moving up and down pretty much as it should.  Everything else seems to work 100% in terms of the electronics. That leaves these two pinch rollers.  I've loosened them to the point I can move them with my fingers from beneath the transport.  The right one is looser than the left and I've been exercising them manually with a tape belt replacement tool.  But they're not loosening any further. I've heated the grease with a hair dryer and I can get them to move on their own while they're warm, but I only do that for about 20 or so seconds  as a time because there being so much nylon and plastic in the deck.  And that doesn't last. (Finally...) There are threads and videos of restorations of Dragons out there to be found, but I can't find one that specifically speaks to accessing the EXACT locations of the frozen grease or where to apply anything that might cut or thin it. Any advice or links to help with this would be VERY much appreciated. I hope everyone's having a great Summer and thanks again... Dwight  -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kslwinter at gmail.com Sun Jul 31 03:42:10 2022 From: kslwinter at gmail.com (kslwinter at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2022 21:42:10 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Seeking assistance with Dragon frozen grease/pinch roller issue In-Reply-To: <1859325359.4301070.1659206866559@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762@mail.yahoo.com> <016501d8a2ae$f21e2260$d65a6720$@gmail.com> <1501195338.2709355.1659033143350@mail.yahoo.com> <1859325359.4301070.1659206866559@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00bd01d8a47e$c06bbb70$41433250$@gmail.com> Hi, After removing the rubber roller and plastic, I VERY CAREFULLY use a butane micro torch to heat the metal so the pinch roller holder can be removed. Works great every time! (Been fixin’ Naks for 40 years, and used to play a silver cornet…) Scott From: Naktalk On Behalf Of Dwight Price via Naktalk Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2022 2:48 PM To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Cc: Dwight Price Subject: [naktalk] Seeking assistance with Dragon frozen grease/pinch roller issue Hi everyone, My messages tend to be too long. Just know I'm trying to do better with screed length. : - ) It's funny how the advantage of more than one of something (like eyes, ears, or in this case a tape deck) lends insight into understanding. I lucked into a Dragon about fifteen years ago and had great luck restoring it to full functionality. It was an earlier unit but gave great service until a year or so ago. With the pandemic and a number of health issues in the family, I didn't listen to it as often as I had for most of the time I've owned it and apparently the pinch rollers seized for a second time. They were seized when I first acquired it, but were freed with very little effort. I didn't recall what was going on at first. But, I believe through retroactive analysis, it to have contributed an issue with the door not operating properly when I tried to either remove a tape or insert a tape. (The deck is located just above eye level which precludes being able to easily see the entirety of the cassette well.) I got the pinch rollers going again, and it didn't take very much in the way of coaxing, but now I know what the issue is and how it presents. I was able to repair the door using a phono cartridge screw and all's well with that machine now. (But it still needs to be gone through-I'm on Perry's waiting list.) Even with that experience, I wasn't prepared for what I've encountered with a second Dragon I recently acquired. Everything was locked up TIGHT. I've restored the fast wind functions, and the head block is now moving up and down pretty much as it should. Everything else seems to work 100% in terms of the electronics. That leaves these two pinch rollers. I've loosened them to the point I can move them with my fingers from beneath the transport. The right one is looser than the left and I've been exercising them manually with a tape belt replacement tool. But they're not loosening any further. I've heated the grease with a hair dryer and I can get them to move on their own while they're warm, but I only do that for about 20 or so seconds as a time because there being so much nylon and plastic in the deck. And that doesn't last. (Finally...) There are threads and videos of restorations of Dragons out there to be found, but I can't find one that specifically speaks to accessing the EXACT locations of the frozen grease or where to apply anything that might cut or thin it. Any advice or links to help with this would be VERY much appreciated. I hope everyone's having a great Summer and thanks again... Dwight -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ricktrumpetman at aol.com Sun Jul 31 09:26:33 2022 From: ricktrumpetman at aol.com (Dwight Price) Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2022 07:26:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Seeking assistance with Dragon frozen grease/pinch roller issue In-Reply-To: <00bd01d8a47e$c06bbb70$41433250$@gmail.com> References: <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762@mail.yahoo.com> <016501d8a2ae$f21e2260$d65a6720$@gmail.com> <1501195338.2709355.1659033143350@mail.yahoo.com> <1859325359.4301070.1659206866559@mail.yahoo.com> <00bd01d8a47e$c06bbb70$41433250$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1341544031.4390017.1659252393639@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Scott, Thank you for your reply and helpful advice! I'm at a place now that's best described as "sideways, maybe backwards" and I'm more concerned now than I was before. The transport is moving inward on one side as it goes up.  Which is something that I did not notice before, perhaps it did it previously, but I suspect it will affectthe head block alignment.  It's noisier than it was previously, and it's difficult to tell if that's from the few drops of synthetic Oil I applied to places where I already saw lubrication.  The left side of the transport is sliding over the pointed end of the left pinch roller post.  Something may have been inadvertently bent,but I thought I was pretty delicate when I tried to free that left pinch roller.  There's a catch in its travel now, and there is a very slight separation in the tape guide spring, so I'm looking for a replacement, even though I'm pretty sure it would function if the pinch roller functioned. I'd prefer to have someone with more experience help with this but I don't know anyone trustworthy in the Western North/South Carolina area. It doesn't have to work, but I didn't buy it just to look at...  : - ) Again, any assistance is greatly appreciated. Dwight  -----Original Message----- From: kslwinter at gmail.com To: 'Dwight Price' ; 'Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks' Sent: Sat, Jul 30, 2022 9:42 pm Subject: RE: [naktalk] Seeking assistance with Dragon frozen grease/pinch roller issue Hi,After removing the rubber roller and plastic, I VERY CAREFULLY use a butane micro torch to heat the metal so the pinch roller holder can be removed.Works great every time! (Been fixin’ Naks for 40 years, and used to play a silver cornet…)Scott  From: Naktalk On Behalf Of Dwight Price via Naktalk Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2022 2:48 PM To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Cc: Dwight Price Subject: [naktalk] Seeking assistance with Dragon frozen grease/pinch roller issue  Hi everyone,  My messages tend to be too long. Just know I'm trying to do better with screed length.  : - )  It's funny how the advantage of more than one of something (like eyes, ears, or in this case a tape deck) lends insight into understanding.  I lucked into a Dragon about fifteen years ago and had great luck restoring it to full functionality.  It was an earlier unit but gave great service until a year or so ago.  With the pandemic and a number of health issues in the family, I didn't listen to it as often as I had for most of the time I've owned it and apparently the pinch rollers seized for a  second time.  They were seized when I first acquired it, but were freed with very little effort.  I didn't recall what was going on at first.  But, I believe through retroactive analysis, it to have contributed an issue with the door not operating properly when I tried to either  remove a tape or insert a tape.  (The deck is located just above eye level which precludes being able to easily see the entirety of the cassette well.)  I got the pinch rollers going again, and it didn't take very much in the way of coaxing, but now I know what the issue is and how it presents.  I was able to repair the door using a phono cartridge screw and all's well with that machine now.  (But it still needs to be gone through-I'm on Perry's waiting list.)    Even with that experience, I wasn't prepared for what I've encountered with a second Dragon I recently acquired.  Everything was locked up TIGHT.  I've restored the fast wind functions, and the head block is now moving up and down pretty much as it should.  Everything else seems to work 100% in terms of the electronics.  That leaves these two pinch rollers.  I've loosened them to the point I can move them with my fingers from beneath the transport.   The right one is looser than the left and I've been exercising them manually with a tape belt replacement tool.  But they're not loosening any further.  I've heated the grease with a hair dryer and I can get them to move on their own while they're warm, but I only do that for about 20 or so seconds   as a time because there being so much nylon and plastic in the deck.  And that doesn't last.  (Finally...)  There are threads and videos of restorations of Dragons out there to be found, but I can't find one that specifically speaks to accessing the EXACT  locations of the frozen grease or where to apply anything that might cut or thin it.  Any advice or links to help with this would be VERY much appreciated.  I hope everyone's having a great Summer and thanks again... Dwight        -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kannan_srinivasa at yahoo.com Thu Aug 4 18:42:32 2022 From: kannan_srinivasa at yahoo.com (kannan srinivasaraghavan) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2022 16:42:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Seeking assistance with Dragon frozen grease/pinch roller issue In-Reply-To: <1341544031.4390017.1659252393639@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1899554210.2669368.1659029349762@mail.yahoo.com> <016501d8a2ae$f21e2260$d65a6720$@gmail.com> <1501195338.2709355.1659033143350@mail.yahoo.com> <1859325359.4301070.1659206866559@mail.yahoo.com> <00bd01d8a47e$c06bbb70$41433250$@gmail.com> <1341544031.4390017.1659252393639@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1350266488.660681.1659631352854@mail.yahoo.com> Whatever method you use, you need to take out the assembly from the Shaft and clean the bore of the assembly and shaft both for proper operation. This means you need proper tools to align the pinch roller guide block with spring on top the pinch roller. This is extremely critical in Dragon as both the Pinch roller block has spring loaded tape guide - they have to precisely placed. The assembly is secured by friction fit lock nut. I hate Nakamichi for not providing threaded lock for adjustment!  I will highly recommend sending this Dragon to some tech who has Nakamichi Gauges /alignment tapes in hand to do the alignment and of course worked with frozen pinch roller assembly of Dragons. kannan On Sunday, July 31, 2022 at 02:26:42 AM CDT, Dwight Price via Naktalk wrote: Hi Scott, Thank you for your reply and helpful advice! I'm at a place now that's best described as "sideways, maybe backwards" and I'm more concerned now than I was before. The transport is moving inward on one side as it goes up.  Which is something that I did not notice before, perhaps it did it previously, but I suspect it will affectthe head block alignment.  It's noisier than it was previously, and it's difficult to tell if that's from the few drops of synthetic Oil I applied to places where I already saw lubrication.  The left side of the transport is sliding over the pointed end of the left pinch roller post.  Something may have been inadvertently bent,but I thought I was pretty delicate when I tried to free that left pinch roller.  There's a catch in its travel now, and there is a very slight separation in the tape guide spring, so I'm looking for a replacement, even though I'm pretty sure it would function if the pinch roller functioned. I'd prefer to have someone with more experience help with this but I don't know anyone trustworthy in the Western North/South Carolina area. It doesn't have to work, but I didn't buy it just to look at...  : - ) Again, any assistance is greatly appreciated. Dwight  -----Original Message----- From: kslwinter at gmail.com To: 'Dwight Price' ; 'Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks' Sent: Sat, Jul 30, 2022 9:42 pm Subject: RE: [naktalk] Seeking assistance with Dragon frozen grease/pinch roller issue Hi,After removing the rubber roller and plastic, I VERY CAREFULLY use a butane micro torch to heat the metal so the pinch roller holder can be removed.Works great every time! (Been fixin’ Naks for 40 years, and used to play a silver cornet…)Scott  From: Naktalk On Behalf Of Dwight Price via Naktalk Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2022 2:48 PM To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Cc: Dwight Price Subject: [naktalk] Seeking assistance with Dragon frozen grease/pinch roller issue  Hi everyone,  My messages tend to be too long. Just know I'm trying to do better with screed length.  : - )  It's funny how the advantage of more than one of something (like eyes, ears, or in this case a tape deck) lends insight into understanding.  I lucked into a Dragon about fifteen years ago and had great luck restoring it to full functionality.  It was an earlier unit but gave great service until a year or so ago.  With the pandemic and a number of health issues in the family, I didn't listen to it as often as I had for most of the time I've owned it and apparently the pinch rollers seized for a  second time.  They were seized when I first acquired it, but were freed with very little effort.  I didn't recall what was going on at first.  But, I believe through retroactive analysis, it to have contributed an issue with the door not operating properly when I tried to either  remove a tape or insert a tape.  (The deck is located just above eye level which precludes being able to easily see the entirety of the cassette well.)  I got the pinch rollers going again, and it didn't take very much in the way of coaxing, but now I know what the issue is and how it presents.  I was able to repair the door using a phono cartridge screw and all's well with that machine now.  (But it still needs to be gone through-I'm on Perry's waiting list.)    Even with that experience, I wasn't prepared for what I've encountered with a second Dragon I recently acquired.  Everything was locked up TIGHT.  I've restored the fast wind functions, and the head block is now moving up and down pretty much as it should.  Everything else seems to work 100% in terms of the electronics.  That leaves these two pinch rollers.  I've loosened them to the point I can move them with my fingers from beneath the transport.   The right one is looser than the left and I've been exercising them manually with a tape belt replacement tool.  But they're not loosening any further.  I've heated the grease with a hair dryer and I can get them to move on their own while they're warm, but I only do that for about 20 or so seconds   as a time because there being so much nylon and plastic in the deck.  And that doesn't last.  (Finally...)  There are threads and videos of restorations of Dragons out there to be found, but I can't find one that specifically speaks to accessing the EXACT  locations of the frozen grease or where to apply anything that might cut or thin it.  Any advice or links to help with this would be VERY much appreciated.  I hope everyone's having a great Summer and thanks again... Dwight       ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From perry.nak at comcast.net Fri Aug 5 14:16:05 2022 From: perry.nak at comcast.net (Perry.nak) Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2022 08:16:05 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon frozen grease Message-ID: <9345586B-E3B1-4A69-A360-B544399195EE@comcast.net> He sent it to me. I will take care of it. Sent from my iPhone From daniel.botelho at gmail.com Fri Aug 5 14:33:19 2022 From: daniel.botelho at gmail.com (Daniel Botelho) Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2022 08:33:19 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon frozen grease In-Reply-To: <9345586B-E3B1-4A69-A360-B544399195EE@comcast.net> References: <9345586B-E3B1-4A69-A360-B544399195EE@comcast.net> Message-ID: At least it's in good hands. 😎. Good call! On Fri., Aug. 5, 2022, 8:16 a.m. Perry.nak via Naktalk, < naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > He sent it to me. I will take care of it. > > Sent from my iPhone > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ricktrumpetman at aol.com Fri Aug 5 16:19:40 2022 From: ricktrumpetman at aol.com (Dwight Price) Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2022 14:19:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Dragon frozen grease In-Reply-To: <9345586B-E3B1-4A69-A360-B544399195EE@comcast.net> References: <9345586B-E3B1-4A69-A360-B544399195EE@comcast.net> Message-ID: <305749602.1272293.1659709180835@mail.yahoo.com> I very much appreciate everyone's advice. I usually don't hesitate to go into a deck, but this deck is not a typical cassette machine and that's something of which I'm very much aware. Thanks, also to Perry.  I look forward to receiving it once he's completed the overhaul. Best Regards,  Dwight -----Original Message----- From: Perry.nak via Naktalk To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Cc: Perry.nak Sent: Fri, Aug 5, 2022 8:16 am Subject: [naktalk] Dragon frozen grease He sent it to me. I will take care of it. Sent from my iPhone ========---------------------------------------------------------=========           Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------=========                         Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bernardsda at hotmail.com Sun Aug 21 13:54:31 2022 From: bernardsda at hotmail.com (Bernard White) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2022 20:54:31 +0900 Subject: [naktalk] Dr 10 belt(s) References: <5b5be534-456d-4a68-9bdb-d13932ce997f@Spark> Message-ID: Hi everyone. I?d appreciate some advice on my DR 10 (purchased new in 2001). The sound became unstable in about 2018 after a period of disuse. Got it serviced and noticed immediately that the sound was not as warm as before. I suspected it was pitched too high. I confirmed this with a CD of exactly the same recording. Took it back, with the tape and the CD . The repair guy showed me the Nak tape he used to calibrate the pitch. Don?t care; the pitch was not the same! He obligingly adjusted the pitch until I was happy they were the same. Nevertheless, I think the deck just didn?t sound quite as good as before. For certain reasons, the deck sat idle for about a year in 2000/2001. The pitch is unstable again. I suspect the dealer here in Korea has not used the proper belt, so I intend to replace the belt with the proper one. But I have a couple of questions, please. (i) Since the deck was not used for about a year, is it possible that the capstan itself becomes damaged, or dented? Any point in replacing that (if it?can?be replaced!). Do the pinch rollers affect the sound, and could they be a bit dented? (ii) I?ve been trying to find the right replacement belt. I find a couple on eBay and somewhere else, neither of them originals; one is made in the Ukraine, the other in Germany. Are there better options? (iii) How many belts are there? One company sells TWO belts for the DR 2, and I thought that was essentially the same deck. Are there two capstan belts? How many do I need? I don?t think there?s anything else wrong with the deck except that there?s some distinct wow. Thanks for your help? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ricktrumpetman at aol.com Sun Aug 21 22:35:48 2022 From: ricktrumpetman at aol.com (Dwight Price) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2022 20:35:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Dr 10 belt(s) In-Reply-To: References: <5b5be534-456d-4a68-9bdb-d13932ce997f@Spark> Message-ID: <1920084681.942577.1661114148060@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Bernard, First, I'd take a deep breath.? There are definitely qualitative differences in belts, and it's difficult to know what you're getting until you can physically inspect them in person.That's the challenge here in the U.S., anyway.?? I can't know for sure without physically inspecting your deck, but I will venture two fairly likely appraisals: 1. Barring some physical trauma that was suffered outside of your ability to have seen, your capstan is fine. 2.? It could be flat spots on the belts themselves.? This happens when the belt is wrapped around the motor pulley, and it will? ? ?manifest as momentary "wow" when the non-congruent part hits the capstan flywheel or the motor pulley while in motion.? ? ?The good news is that if it's THAT, then it will eventually lessen, and probably disappear with consistent use. When looking at the DR-10 service manual, I count two belts. The back tension arm belt (#9 on parts list/exploded view) and the capstan belt (#75 on parts list/exploded view) I'd exercise it by letting it run awhile and see what happens. The DR-1 and DR-10 are NOT the same deck but they are similar. The biggest difference is that the DR-1 has on the fly azimuth adjustment and the DR-10 doesn't. Good luck! Dwight -----Original Message----- From: Bernard White via Naktalk To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Cc: Bernard White Sent: Sun, Aug 21, 2022 7:54 am Subject: [naktalk] Dr 10 belt(s) Hi everyone. I?d appreciate some advice on my DR 10 (purchased new in 2001). The sound became unstable in about 2018 after a period of disuse. Got it serviced and noticed immediately that the sound was not as warm as before. I suspected it was pitched too high. I confirmed this with a CD of exactly the same recording. Took it back, with the tape and the CD . The repair guy showed me the Nak tape he used to calibrate the pitch. Don?t care; the pitch was not the same! He obligingly adjusted the pitch until I was happy they were the same. Nevertheless, I think the deck just didn?t sound quite as good as before. For certain reasons, the deck sat idle for about a year in 2000/2001. The pitch is unstable again. I suspect the dealer here in Korea has not used the proper belt, so I intend to replace the belt with the proper one. But I have a couple of questions, please. (i) Since the deck was not used for about a year, is it possible that the capstan itself becomes damaged, or dented? Any point in replacing that (if it?can?be replaced!). Do the pinch rollers affect the sound, and could they be a bit dented? (ii) I?ve been trying to find the right replacement belt. I find a couple on eBay and somewhere else, neither of them originals; one is made in the Ukraine, the other in Germany. Are there better options? (iii) How many belts are there? One company sells TWO belts for the DR 2, and I thought that was essentially the same deck. Are there two capstan belts? How many do I need? I don?t think there?s anything else wrong with the deck except that there?s some distinct wow. Thanks for your help?========---------------------------------------------------------========= ? ? ? ? ? Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com ========---------------------------------------------------------========= ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From korvetteking at gmail.com Mon Aug 22 01:25:52 2022 From: korvetteking at gmail.com (Bob Naylor) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2022 19:25:52 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Dr 10 belt(s) In-Reply-To: <1920084681.942577.1661114148060@mail.yahoo.com> References: <5b5be534-456d-4a68-9bdb-d13932ce997f@Spark> <1920084681.942577.1661114148060@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You should always take your tape to the tech with your deck when getting your deck worked on. Bob N [image: width=] Virus-free.www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Sun, Aug 21, 2022 at 4:35 PM Dwight Price via Naktalk < naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > Hi Bernard, > > First, I'd take a deep breath. There are definitely qualitative > differences in belts, and it's difficult to know what you're getting until > you can physically inspect them in person. > That's the challenge here in the U.S., anyway. > > I can't know for sure without physically inspecting your deck, but I will > venture two fairly likely appraisals: > > 1. Barring some physical trauma that was suffered outside of your ability > to have seen, your capstan is fine. > > 2. It could be flat spots on the belts themselves. This happens when the > belt is wrapped around the motor pulley, and it will > manifest as momentary "wow" when the non-congruent part hits the > capstan flywheel or the motor pulley while in motion. > The good news is that if it's THAT, then it will eventually lessen, > and probably disappear with consistent use. > > When looking at the DR-10 service manual, I count two belts. > > The back tension arm belt (#9 on parts list/exploded view) and the capstan > belt (#75 on parts list/exploded view) > > I'd exercise it by letting it run awhile and see what happens. > > The DR-1 and DR-10 are NOT the same deck but they are similar. > > The biggest difference is that the DR-1 has on the fly azimuth adjustment > and the DR-10 doesn't. > > Good luck! > > Dwight > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bernard White via Naktalk > To: naktalk at lists.naks.com > Cc: Bernard White > Sent: Sun, Aug 21, 2022 7:54 am > Subject: [naktalk] Dr 10 belt(s) > > Hi everyone. I?d appreciate some advice on my DR 10 (purchased new in > 2001). The sound became unstable in about 2018 after a period of disuse. > Got it serviced and noticed immediately that the sound was not as warm as > before. I suspected it was pitched too high. I confirmed this with a CD of > exactly the same recording. Took it back, with the tape and the CD . The > repair guy showed me the Nak tape he used to calibrate the pitch. Don?t > care; the pitch was not the same! He obligingly adjusted the pitch until I > was happy they were the same. > > Nevertheless, I think the deck just didn?t sound quite as good as before. > For certain reasons, the deck sat idle for about a year in 2000/2001. The > pitch is unstable again. > > I suspect the dealer here in Korea has not used the proper belt, so I > intend to replace the belt with the proper one. But I have a couple of > questions, please. > > (i) Since the deck was not used for about a year, is it possible that the > capstan itself becomes damaged, or dented? Any point in replacing that (if > it *can* be replaced!). Do the pinch rollers affect the sound, and could > they be a bit dented? > (ii) I?ve been trying to find the right replacement belt. I find a couple > on eBay and somewhere else, neither of them originals; one is made in the > Ukraine, the other in Germany. Are there better options? > (iii) How many belts are there? One company sells TWO belts for the DR 2, > and I thought that was essentially the same deck. Are there two capstan > belts? How many do I need? > > I don?t think there?s anything else wrong with the deck except that > there?s some distinct wow. > > Thanks for your help? > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnnykojic at hotmail.com Mon Aug 22 00:32:15 2022 From: johnnykojic at hotmail.com (john kojic) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2022 22:32:15 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Dr 10 belt(s) In-Reply-To: References: <5b5be534-456d-4a68-9bdb-d13932ce997f@Spark> Message-ID: pinch rollers heavily affect w&f - it could only be dented if it was stored with the player in play position- dirty roller will also affect sound / w&f ________________________________ From: Naktalk on behalf of Bernard White via Naktalk Sent: 21 August 2022 11:54 To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Cc: Bernard White Subject: [naktalk] Dr 10 belt(s) Hi everyone. I?d appreciate some advice on my DR 10 (purchased new in 2001). The sound became unstable in about 2018 after a period of disuse. Got it serviced and noticed immediately that the sound was not as warm as before. I suspected it was pitched too high. I confirmed this with a CD of exactly the same recording. Took it back, with the tape and the CD . The repair guy showed me the Nak tape he used to calibrate the pitch. Don?t care; the pitch was not the same! He obligingly adjusted the pitch until I was happy they were the same. Nevertheless, I think the deck just didn?t sound quite as good as before. For certain reasons, the deck sat idle for about a year in 2000/2001. The pitch is unstable again. I suspect the dealer here in Korea has not used the proper belt, so I intend to replace the belt with the proper one. But I have a couple of questions, please. (i) Since the deck was not used for about a year, is it possible that the capstan itself becomes damaged, or dented? Any point in replacing that (if it can be replaced!). Do the pinch rollers affect the sound, and could they be a bit dented? (ii) I?ve been trying to find the right replacement belt. I find a couple on eBay and somewhere else, neither of them originals; one is made in the Ukraine, the other in Germany. Are there better options? (iii) How many belts are there? One company sells TWO belts for the DR 2, and I thought that was essentially the same deck. Are there two capstan belts? How many do I need? I don?t think there?s anything else wrong with the deck except that there?s some distinct wow. Thanks for your help? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bernardsda at hotmail.com Mon Aug 22 01:25:24 2022 From: bernardsda at hotmail.com (Bernard White) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2022 08:25:24 +0900 Subject: [naktalk] More on the DR 10 and belts References: <50f1e0c1-d122-4879-9c33-d66da40dc971@Spark> Message-ID: First, thanks to Dwight and Jeff for the replies. Jeff, although your belts cost rather more than the ones I?ve seen on the Internet, I know you are to be trusted, and it is certainly worth having the original belts. Likely you?ll be hearing back from me. There?s a twist to what I last reported. When I wrote, it had been a few months since trying the deck. After hearing what it sounded like after moving house in January (when, having that ?fresh start? I had decided it was time to listen to music again), I got discouraged and just put the deck away again. It was only yesterday that I thought, ?Time to get this thing going again.? That?s when I started looking at belt options on the Internet and wrote to you good folk. Anyway, I plugged the deck in, where it was sitting, and listened first to a piano tape, through ?phones. No noticeable wow! I tried three other tapes. Same thing. So I took it downstairs and set it up. Dashed thing played for a few seconds then ground to a halt (with the usual, severe, ?wow? sounds). I tried that repeatedly, on two different tapes and using different settings. Turned the deck off, left it overnight, then tried it again this morning. Same deal. So what?s the verdict, folk? Definitely needing new belts, or is it likely that something else is wrong? (I have never had any other problem with this deck. Always worked like a charm) Thanks again, Bernard -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bernardsda at hotmail.com Mon Aug 22 05:57:46 2022 From: bernardsda at hotmail.com (Bernard White) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2022 12:57:46 +0900 Subject: [naktalk] Further twist with the DR 10 References: <20d59250-5e39-473d-a88e-af452ab407af@Spark> Message-ID: Well, just three hours or so after the last report, in which I mentioned that the DR 10 had almost stopped working completely (playing only for a few seconds), I turned it back on, and this time it kept playing?with a fairly stable sound. Go figure, although probably some of you can explain why this might happen. Would I be correct in thinking that, although it?s playing again, it really does need new belts, or might something else be the problem? Bernard -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davidt124 at internode.on.net Mon Aug 22 08:59:42 2022 From: davidt124 at internode.on.net (David Thompson) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2022 16:59:42 +1000 Subject: [naktalk] More on the DR 10 and belts In-Reply-To: References: <50f1e0c1-d122-4879-9c33-d66da40dc971@Spark> Message-ID: <7a6e97e0-3d38-45fb-add1-cdfbc4b1daa3@Spark> Bernard Old cassette tape can deteriorate and become sticky or even mouldy in warmer climes. They can come to a halt and mess up your rollers, heads and capstans, which need repeated cleaning. A full rewind can help to unstick them. I managed to save a few like that and digitise them but others were a lost cause. Cheers David On 22 Aug 2022, 3:52 PM +1000, Bernard White via Naktalk , wrote: > First, thanks to Dwight and Jeff for the replies. Jeff, although your belts cost rather more than the ones I?ve seen on the Internet, I know you are to be trusted, and it is certainly worth having the original belts. Likely you?ll be hearing back from me. > > There?s a twist to what I last reported. When I wrote, it had been a few months since trying the deck. After hearing what it sounded like after moving house in January (when, having that ?fresh start? I had decided it was time to listen to music again), I got discouraged and just put the deck away again. It was only yesterday that I thought, ?Time to get this thing going again.? That?s when I started looking at belt options on the Internet and wrote to you good folk. > > Anyway, I plugged the deck in, where it was sitting, and listened first to a piano tape, through ?phones. No noticeable wow! I tried three other tapes. Same thing. So I took it downstairs and set it up. Dashed thing played for a few seconds then ground to a halt (with the usual, severe, ?wow? sounds). I tried that repeatedly, on two different tapes and using different settings. Turned the deck off, left it overnight, then tried it again this morning. Same deal. > > So what?s the verdict, folk? Definitely needing new belts, or is it likely that something else is wrong? (I have never had any other problem with this deck. Always worked like a charm) > > Thanks again, > > Bernard > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From perry.nak at comcast.net Mon Aug 22 15:48:41 2022 From: perry.nak at comcast.net (Perry.nak) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2022 09:48:41 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] DR-10 Message-ID: <604EF4D9-9C36-4123-9B1F-1453DA605B93@comcast.net> Everything listed sounds like the capstan and or reel motors are the cause. Weak or dead spotting reel motor is the most likely and very common issue. It has to be rebuilt or replaced. Sent from my iPhone From bernardsda at hotmail.com Mon Aug 22 09:20:56 2022 From: bernardsda at hotmail.com (Bernard White) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2022 16:20:56 +0900 Subject: [naktalk] Dr 10 belt(s) In-Reply-To: References: <5b5be534-456d-4a68-9bdb-d13932ce997f@Spark> Message-ID: Worth knowing. It wasn?t stored with a tape inside, and certainly not in play position. I?ll give the rollers a swab. On Aug 22, 2022 2:50 PM +0900, john kojic via Naktalk , wrote: > pinch rollers heavily affect w&f? - it could only be dented if it was stored with the player in play position- dirty roller will also affect sound / w&f > > From: Naktalk on behalf of Bernard White via Naktalk > Sent: 21 August 2022 11:54 > To: naktalk at lists.naks.com > Cc: Bernard White > Subject: [naktalk] Dr 10 belt(s) > > Hi everyone. I?d appreciate some advice on my DR 10 (purchased new in 2001). The sound became unstable in about 2018 after a period of disuse. Got it serviced and noticed immediately that the sound was not as warm as before. I suspected it was pitched too high. I confirmed this with a CD of exactly the same recording. Took it back, with the tape and the CD . The repair guy showed me the Nak tape he used to calibrate the pitch. Don?t care; the pitch was not the same! He obligingly adjusted the pitch until I was happy they were the same. > > Nevertheless, I think the deck just didn?t sound quite as good as before. For certain reasons, the deck sat idle for about a year in 2000/2001. The pitch is unstable again. > > I suspect the dealer here in Korea has not used the proper belt, so I intend to replace the belt with the proper one. But I have a couple of questions, please. > > (i) Since the deck was not used for about a year, is it possible that the capstan itself becomes damaged, or dented? Any point in replacing that (if it?can?be replaced!). Do the pinch rollers affect the sound, and could they be a bit dented? > (ii) I?ve been trying to find the right replacement belt. I find a couple on eBay and somewhere else, neither of them originals; one is made in the Ukraine, the other in Germany. Are there better options? > (iii) How many belts are there? One company sells TWO belts for the DR 2, and I thought that was essentially the same deck. Are there two capstan belts? How many do I need? > > I don?t think there?s anything else wrong with the deck except that there?s some distinct wow. > > Thanks for your help? > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgoldey at goldey.net Fri Aug 26 21:40:36 2022 From: mgoldey at goldey.net (Mark Goldey) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2022 15:40:36 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A transport buttons/mechanism problem, transport lights flashing Message-ID: <23916a2e-273a-c79b-bf17-a897678e16e2@goldey.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From daniel.botelho at gmail.com Fri Aug 26 22:00:45 2022 From: daniel.botelho at gmail.com (Daniel Botelho) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2022 16:00:45 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A transport buttons/mechanism problem, transport lights flashing In-Reply-To: <23916a2e-273a-c79b-bf17-a897678e16e2@goldey.net> References: <23916a2e-273a-c79b-bf17-a897678e16e2@goldey.net> Message-ID: Hey there, It will likely be either of the following: - CAM motor has a dead spot in the motor, and needs to be either rebuilt or replaced. - Leaf switches that enable the different rew/ffwd/playback modes need cleaning In either case, the mech will need to be yanked and pulled apart to get at the CAM motor and leaf switches. Hope this helps Daniel On Fri, Aug 26, 2022 at 3:41 PM Mark Goldey via Naktalk < naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > Hi, all. I couldn't find anything in the archives quite like this, and > nothing about the transport lights flashing in the owners' manual or the > 1985 troubleshooting manual I've got. Hoping someone has an idea or two.... > > My CR-7A, which was worked just fine for 8 or 9 months, is now unable play > tapes. This started intermittently yesterday. (The tapes I'm using play > fine in other decks.) > > Here's what's going on. > > First off, when powered on, the deck seems OK. If the door is closed, it > will take up slack (tape or no tape). And it will usually start to do what > I ask it to do (play, FF, whatever). If it is willing to FF or REV, it > seems to do so until the end of the tape. Stop works, too, but then FF and > REV may not restart after pressing stop. With play, though, after a moment > the deck "crashes" and becomes unresponsive to the control buttons. > > That said, FF and REV do not always engage. They often do, but once the > deck is unhappy, pressing FF or REV results in the light on the button > coming on, but nothing else. No motor noise, nothing. The deck returns to > stop with the stop light illuminated. So, it's acknowledging the button > press, but not responding to it. When the deck in this state, re-closing > the door/tray does not result in the left spindle taking up slack, either. > As far as I can tell, power cycling the deck is the only way to clear this > condition. > > With the door off, and when FF and REV actually work, FF is strong and > continues when I press my finger against the spindle. REV stops almost > immediately with any pressure (which may be normal?). My first thought was > the idler was worn, but it does seem like it's making good contact because > both directions work well when they do engage. > > Second, in contrast to FF and REV, play almost always crashes the deck. > Here's what happens: > > When powered on, the two capstans are spinning. Press play, and the > transport mechanism moves upward and engages. Both pinch reels spin and > the take up spindle spins. And sometimes it will play the tape. But > usually, after a moment, the transport lights flash, alternating between > stop and all of play, ff, rew and pause blinking together. The transport > buttons seem unresponsive. Nothing happens when pressing stop. After 8 > or 10(?) seconds, the deck drops out of playback, returning the transport > mechanism back down. The tape can be removed, but there is a small loop on > the takeup side that's been pulled out of the shell where the pinch roller > is. The tape is not mangled. Once it was more like 10" of tape, and a lot > of it had slid down to the right of the takeup pinch roller. But it wasn't > mangled. > > That's all I can think to say. Any thoughts about troubleshooting would > be most appreciated. > > Thanks. > > --mhg > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From perry.nak at comcast.net Sat Aug 27 14:52:41 2022 From: perry.nak at comcast.net (Perry.nak) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2022 08:52:41 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7 buttons Message-ID: That is classic mode motor dead spot. Very common. Motor must be removed and rebuilt. We have found that besides the usual cleaning of the commutator & brushes, and lubrication of the bearings, the union of the external wiring tab that is screwed to the brush tab internally, develops high resistance over time. A tiny quick solder between the two tabs restores functionality for the long term. The mode motor is unique in this issue. Perry Sent from my iPhone From shorty1275nz at actrix.co.nz Wed Aug 31 01:00:33 2022 From: shorty1275nz at actrix.co.nz (shorty1275nz at actrix.co.nz) Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2022 11:00:33 +1200 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A transport buttons/mechanism problem, transport lights flashing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Second what Daniel has said... most likely the cam/mode control motor. Should be some information on that in the archives here, as it's a common problem with Sankyo Mech'd decks that don't get a lot of use. A bit hit and miss on repair, replace is usually the best option. The Challenge is finding a replacement. From memory, Perry may have found something? > Hey there, > > It will likely be either of the following: > > - CAM motor has a dead spot in the motor, and needs to be either rebuilt > or > replaced. > - Leaf switches that enable the different rew/ffwd/playback modes need > cleaning > > In either case, the mech will need to be yanked and pulled apart to get at > the CAM motor and leaf switches. > > Hope this helps > > Daniel > > > On Fri, Aug 26, 2022 at 3:41 PM Mark Goldey via Naktalk < > naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > >> Hi, all. I couldn't find anything in the archives quite like this, and >> nothing about the transport lights flashing in the owners' manual or the >> 1985 troubleshooting manual I've got. Hoping someone has an idea or >> two.... >> >> My CR-7A, which was worked just fine for 8 or 9 months, is now unable >> play >> tapes. This started intermittently yesterday. (The tapes I'm using >> play >> fine in other decks.) >> >> Here's what's going on. >> >> First off, when powered on, the deck seems OK. If the door is closed, >> it >> will take up slack (tape or no tape). And it will usually start to do >> what >> I ask it to do (play, FF, whatever). If it is willing to FF or REV, it >> seems to do so until the end of the tape. Stop works, too, but then FF >> and >> REV may not restart after pressing stop. With play, though, after a >> moment >> the deck "crashes" and becomes unresponsive to the control buttons. >> >> That said, FF and REV do not always engage. They often do, but once the >> deck is unhappy, pressing FF or REV results in the light on the button >> coming on, but nothing else. No motor noise, nothing. The deck returns >> to >> stop with the stop light illuminated. So, it's acknowledging the button >> press, but not responding to it. When the deck in this state, >> re-closing >> the door/tray does not result in the left spindle taking up slack, >> either. >> As far as I can tell, power cycling the deck is the only way to clear >> this >> condition. >> >> With the door off, and when FF and REV actually work, FF is strong and >> continues when I press my finger against the spindle. REV stops almost >> immediately with any pressure (which may be normal?). My first thought >> was >> the idler was worn, but it does seem like it's making good contact >> because >> both directions work well when they do engage. >> >> Second, in contrast to FF and REV, play almost always crashes the deck. >> Here's what happens: >> >> When powered on, the two capstans are spinning. Press play, and the >> transport mechanism moves upward and engages. Both pinch reels spin and >> the take up spindle spins. And sometimes it will play the tape. But >> usually, after a moment, the transport lights flash, alternating between >> stop and all of play, ff, rew and pause blinking together. The >> transport >> buttons seem unresponsive. Nothing happens when pressing stop. After >> 8 >> or 10(?) seconds, the deck drops out of playback, returning the >> transport >> mechanism back down. The tape can be removed, but there is a small loop >> on >> the takeup side that's been pulled out of the shell where the pinch >> roller >> is. The tape is not mangled. Once it was more like 10" of tape, and a >> lot >> of it had slid down to the right of the takeup pinch roller. But it >> wasn't >> mangled. >> >> That's all I can think to say. Any thoughts about troubleshooting would >> be most appreciated. >> >> Thanks. >> >> --mhg >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist >> Maintain your account here: >> http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> > From daniel.botelho at gmail.com Wed Aug 31 01:21:20 2022 From: daniel.botelho at gmail.com (Daniel Botelho) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2022 19:21:20 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A transport buttons/mechanism problem, transport lights flashing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Regarding replacement motors, I've had some decent success with rebuilding them. However, I've also used these as a replacement: https://www.ebay.com/itm/172438260477 I ordered the 12560 model. Seems to run at just the right speed. Maybe a hair slower, but better slow vs too fast. ? Not sure if anyone discovered these or not, but they seem to be just fine. I just apply a tiny drop of machine oil on the motor shaft and they run really nice and quiet. On Tue., Aug. 30, 2022, 7:00 p.m. , wrote: > Second what Daniel has said... most likely the cam/mode control motor. > Should be some information on that in the archives here, as it's a common > problem with Sankyo Mech'd decks that don't get a lot of use. A bit hit > and miss on repair, replace is usually the best option. The Challenge is > finding a replacement. From memory, Perry may have found something? > > > > Hey there, > > > > It will likely be either of the following: > > > > - CAM motor has a dead spot in the motor, and needs to be either rebuilt > > or > > replaced. > > - Leaf switches that enable the different rew/ffwd/playback modes need > > cleaning > > > > In either case, the mech will need to be yanked and pulled apart to get > at > > the CAM motor and leaf switches. > > > > Hope this helps > > > > Daniel > > > > > > On Fri, Aug 26, 2022 at 3:41 PM Mark Goldey via Naktalk < > > naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > > > >> Hi, all. I couldn't find anything in the archives quite like this, and > >> nothing about the transport lights flashing in the owners' manual or the > >> 1985 troubleshooting manual I've got. Hoping someone has an idea or > >> two.... > >> > >> My CR-7A, which was worked just fine for 8 or 9 months, is now unable > >> play > >> tapes. This started intermittently yesterday. (The tapes I'm using > >> play > >> fine in other decks.) > >> > >> Here's what's going on. > >> > >> First off, when powered on, the deck seems OK. If the door is closed, > >> it > >> will take up slack (tape or no tape). And it will usually start to do > >> what > >> I ask it to do (play, FF, whatever). If it is willing to FF or REV, it > >> seems to do so until the end of the tape. Stop works, too, but then FF > >> and > >> REV may not restart after pressing stop. With play, though, after a > >> moment > >> the deck "crashes" and becomes unresponsive to the control buttons. > >> > >> That said, FF and REV do not always engage. They often do, but once the > >> deck is unhappy, pressing FF or REV results in the light on the button > >> coming on, but nothing else. No motor noise, nothing. The deck returns > >> to > >> stop with the stop light illuminated. So, it's acknowledging the button > >> press, but not responding to it. When the deck in this state, > >> re-closing > >> the door/tray does not result in the left spindle taking up slack, > >> either. > >> As far as I can tell, power cycling the deck is the only way to clear > >> this > >> condition. > >> > >> With the door off, and when FF and REV actually work, FF is strong and > >> continues when I press my finger against the spindle. REV stops almost > >> immediately with any pressure (which may be normal?). My first thought > >> was > >> the idler was worn, but it does seem like it's making good contact > >> because > >> both directions work well when they do engage. > >> > >> Second, in contrast to FF and REV, play almost always crashes the deck. > >> Here's what happens: > >> > >> When powered on, the two capstans are spinning. Press play, and the > >> transport mechanism moves upward and engages. Both pinch reels spin and > >> the take up spindle spins. And sometimes it will play the tape. But > >> usually, after a moment, the transport lights flash, alternating between > >> stop and all of play, ff, rew and pause blinking together. The > >> transport > >> buttons seem unresponsive. Nothing happens when pressing stop. After > >> 8 > >> or 10(?) seconds, the deck drops out of playback, returning the > >> transport > >> mechanism back down. The tape can be removed, but there is a small loop > >> on > >> the takeup side that's been pulled out of the shell where the pinch > >> roller > >> is. The tape is not mangled. Once it was more like 10" of tape, and a > >> lot > >> of it had slid down to the right of the takeup pinch roller. But it > >> wasn't > >> mangled. > >> > >> That's all I can think to say. Any thoughts about troubleshooting would > >> be most appreciated. > >> > >> Thanks. > >> > >> --mhg > >> > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > >> Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > >> > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > >> Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > >> Maintain your account here: > >> http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > >> > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > >> > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From martinferreira at hotmail.com Fri Sep 2 14:30:49 2022 From: martinferreira at hotmail.com (martin ferreira) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2022 12:30:49 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] BX150 reel motor replacement Message-ID: hello The reel motor in my Bx150 with gear idler upgrade has dead spots and sometimes stops. I FF it for 2 hours with no tape and it seems to have solved the issue but with ocassional stops towards the end of a tape. I have another Sankyo spare from an Onkyo deck with BFS9B03 & 30603-D sticker. my question is if can be a direct replaement in terms of voltage. it does not have the wire with a round flat cap across the terminals like in the Bx 150. thanks Martin Ferreira -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kosa at raptor.hu Tue Sep 6 14:08:05 2022 From: kosa at raptor.hu (=?iso-8859-2?B?S/NzYSBKZW71?=) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2022 14:08:05 +0200 Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi 1000ZXL CPU Message-ID: <005f01d8c1e9$524f5060$f6edf120$@hu> Hi Friends, I have an important question! Has anyone replaced the IC701 CPU in a Nakamichi 1000ZXL? I await the answers! Thank NakKJ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From k.nesbitt at shaw.ca Tue Sep 6 19:05:02 2022 From: k.nesbitt at shaw.ca (knesbitt) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2022 11:05:02 -0600 Subject: [naktalk] Nak repairs in Canada? Message-ID: <840b1a89-5f84-c6c6-6830-6850f67534d6@shaw.ca> Hi all, just dug out my otherwise minty RX-202 from storage and see she's having difficulty spinning up. Likely needs a long overdue service. Can anyone suggest a reputable service contact in Canada? I'm out west but have no issues sending it back east or where required. Kirb - Calgary From f.riedlinger at bluewin.ch Tue Sep 20 15:32:24 2022 From: f.riedlinger at bluewin.ch (Franz Riedlinger) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2022 15:32:24 +0200 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon playback forward Message-ID: <63B467B5-C932-4A21-BC8D-FF28F9533DB5@bluewin.ch> Dear Nakamichi Fan Community I am the owner of a Dragon and live in Switzerland. Unfortunately, the device has recently had difficulties with playback forward. It plays normally for about 40 seconds. Then volume fluctuations occur until it stops. The other functions, play backwards, coils forward and backward work perfectly. I recorded the malfunction in a video. This can be downloaded from my cloud using the following QR code until 14.10.2022. Surely one of you will have had the same problem and can give me detailed information about the causes and the repair work. I would be very grateful for any indications soon. Best regards Franz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7831.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1807146 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mark8559 at hotmail.com Sun Oct 2 02:37:36 2022 From: mark8559 at hotmail.com (Mark Exstedt) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2022 00:37:36 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Software Simulator for Nakamichi T-100 Audio Analyzer Message-ID: FYI - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5s7Kmr4HGuw [https://www.bing.com/th?id=OVP.i91YGhkedZGZilz2iGPbKgHgFo&pid=Api] Software Simulator for Nakamichi T-100 Audio Analyzer A software application that simulates the classic Nakamichi T-100 Audio Analyzer on general purpose computer. The video includes a short revisit of the classic Nakamichi T-100 Audio Analyzer, a brief introduction of the new software simulator, and a demo using the software for inspecting a cassette deck. For more information, please visit: http ... www.youtube.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wheijke at xs4all.nl Sun Oct 2 08:06:22 2022 From: wheijke at xs4all.nl (Wouter Heijke) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2022 08:06:22 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [naktalk] Software Simulator for Nakamichi T-100 Audio Analyzer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2059145085.232295.1664690782629@kpc.webmail.kpnmail.nl> Thanks Mark for this! Looks very cool! Also they have dolby and dbx software decoding solutions i see, soo nice. Great stuff for a sunday ;-) Wouter > Op 02-10-2022 02:37 CEST schreef Mark Exstedt via Naktalk : > > > FYI - > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5s7Kmr4HGuw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5s7Kmr4HGuw > > > Software Simulator for Nakamichi T-100 Audio Analyzer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5s7Kmr4HGuw > > > A software application that simulates the classic Nakamichi T-100 Audio Analyzer on general purpose computer. The video includes a short revisit of the classic Nakamichi T-100 Audio Analyzer, a brief introduction of the new software simulator, and a demo using the software for inspecting a cassette deck. For more information, please visit: http ... > > > www.youtube.com > > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lists at richardhess.com Mon Oct 3 01:57:03 2022 From: lists at richardhess.com (Richard L. Hess) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2022 19:57:03 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Software Simulator for Nakamichi T-100 Audio Analyzer In-Reply-To: <2059145085.232295.1664690782629@kpc.webmail.kpnmail.nl> References: <2059145085.232295.1664690782629@kpc.webmail.kpnmail.nl> Message-ID: <05765f8d-2957-b16c-d4b6-4deeea772753@richardhess.com> I have been using the Dolby B/C and dbx I/II decoders from Anaxwaves and find them to be very credible. There is a beta Telcom C4 software package. Contact me if you're interested. It's free. The world is missing good software decoding for Dolby A, S, and SR. Cheers, Richard On 2022-10-02 2:06 a.m., Wouter Heijke via Naktalk wrote: > Thanks Mark for this! Looks very cool! > Also they have dolby and dbx software decoding solutions i see, soo nice. > Great stuff for a sunday ;-) > Wouter >> Op 02-10-2022 02:37 CEST schreef Mark Exstedt via Naktalk >> : >> FYI - >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5s7Kmr4HGuw >> >> >> Software Simulator for Nakamichi T-100 Audio Analyzer >> >> A software application that simulates the classic Nakamichi T-100 >> Audio Analyzer on general purpose computer. The video includes a >> short revisit of the classic Nakamichi T-100 Audio Analyzer, a brief >> introduction of the new software simulator, and a demo using the >> software for inspecting a cassette deck. For more information, please >> visit: http ... >> www.youtube.com >> >> >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> >> Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> >> Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist >> Maintain your account here: >> http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki!http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here:http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -- Richard L. Hess email:richard at richardhess.com Aurora, Ontario, Canadahttp://www.richardhess.com/ http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alan505 at gmail.com Wed Oct 5 22:07:34 2022 From: alan505 at gmail.com (alan505) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2022 15:07:34 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] 1000 ZXL display or calibration settings save issue? Message-ID: I have been living with an issue on my 1000ZXL Limited for quite some time where the display will not fully light all functions, nor respond to EQ or NR switch settings until an ABLE calibration occurs. Once a calibration is completed I am free to switch between eq and NR settings until I power the deck off. Once powered back on the situation presents itself again until ALBE calibration has occurred. On one occasion the deck did revert back to the frozen control state after about 7 hours of constant use. This has yet to be repeated. The issue first appeared following one month of storage & a battery change. I disconnected the unit before I went out of town back in summer 2020 and decided to change the batteries before hooking it back up. From that point it has never been able to remember the calibrated settings. I tried swapping out the batteries, verifying connection to the battery case, and even checking the seating of the PCB cards, removing the NR100 cables, all to no avail. I should also note that the ability to hit record via the remote no longer functions, but my memory is fuzzy on if this occurred around the same time. All of these are things that I have lived with, and can live with, but I think the right thing to do is address abnormal conditions before they progress. I searched the previous NakTalk archives but could not find a similar situation. -Alan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From perry.nak at comcast.net Thu Oct 6 14:49:54 2022 From: perry.nak at comcast.net (Perry.nak) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2022 08:49:54 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] 1000zxl memory Message-ID: What service has been done to the deck over the years, electronically? Capacitors, ICs etc? Sent from my iPhone From alan505 at gmail.com Fri Oct 7 06:30:57 2022 From: alan505 at gmail.com (alan505) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2022 23:30:57 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] 1000zxl memory Message-ID: > What service has been done to the deck over the years, electronically? Capacitors, ICs etc? Willy performed a full service in 2018 on it including a complete transport rebuild and component replacement. This included: - All "known to fail" electronic parts were replaced preemptively. (IIRC there's a ton of orange film caps, diodes, and resistors in the replaced parts bag he included) - Dolby and subsonic filter relays were replaced with upgrades. - Battery holder was replaced - Front panel lamps were replaced with LED's and the circuit modified to accommodate them. The deck had operated flawlessly up until summer 2020 when I hid it away while on vacation. I know how much they hate to be moved or jarred so the first thing I tried to do is re-seat the cards to no avail. -Alan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mk.harris1 at virginmedia.com Fri Oct 7 09:32:05 2022 From: mk.harris1 at virginmedia.com (Mark Harris) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2022 08:32:05 +0100 Subject: [naktalk] 1000zxl memory In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4CD8D8D5-E856-414E-9FEF-D5EC8E16F481@virginmedia.com> Hi, You have to be mindful that it?s an item of electronic engineering that was produced between 1979-1985. Asides from capacitor failure that we?re all aware of, there?s also a multitude of other components that can and do fail over time. Willie would have covered all known issues with this model when he serviced it. Unfortunately there?s always further potential for failures with highly engineered equipment of this age. I hope that you manage to resolve the issues. Sent from my iPhone > On 7 Oct 2022, at 05:41, alan505 via Naktalk wrote: > > ? > > What service has been done to the deck over the years, electronically? Capacitors, ICs etc? > > Willy performed a full service in 2018 on it including a complete transport rebuild and component replacement. This included: > > - All "known to fail" electronic parts were replaced preemptively. (IIRC there's a ton of orange film caps, diodes, and resistors in the replaced parts bag he included) > > - Dolby and subsonic filter relays were replaced with upgrades. > > - Battery holder was replaced > > - Front panel lamps were replaced with LED's and the circuit modified to accommodate them. > > The deck had operated flawlessly up until summer 2020 when I hid it away while on vacation. I know how much they hate to be moved or jarred so the first thing I tried to do is re-seat the cards to no avail. > > -Alan > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= From ncalabs at aol.com Fri Oct 7 10:51:15 2022 From: ncalabs at aol.com (NCA) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2022 01:51:15 -0700 Subject: [naktalk] 1000zxl memory In-Reply-To: <4CD8D8D5-E856-414E-9FEF-D5EC8E16F481@virginmedia.com> References: <4CD8D8D5-E856-414E-9FEF-D5EC8E16F481@virginmedia.com> Message-ID: <39E9C44D-99A2-4B2F-A32B-A4F63DF70882@aol.com> Well said. We all love our machines. But they are getting older. Sent from Glenn's iPhone > On Oct 7, 2022, at 12:38 AM, Mark Harris via Naktalk wrote: > > ?Hi, > > You have to be mindful that it?s an item of electronic engineering that was produced between 1979-1985. Asides from capacitor failure that we?re all aware of, there?s also a multitude of other components that can and do fail over time. > > Willie would have covered all known issues with this model when he serviced it. Unfortunately there?s always further potential for failures with highly engineered equipment of this age. > > I hope that you manage to resolve the issues. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On 7 Oct 2022, at 05:41, alan505 via Naktalk wrote: >> >> ? >>> What service has been done to the deck over the years, electronically? Capacitors, ICs etc? >> >> Willy performed a full service in 2018 on it including a complete transport rebuild and component replacement. This included: >> >> - All "known to fail" electronic parts were replaced preemptively. (IIRC there's a ton of orange film caps, diodes, and resistors in the replaced parts bag he included) >> >> - Dolby and subsonic filter relays were replaced with upgrades. >> >> - Battery holder was replaced >> >> - Front panel lamps were replaced with LED's and the circuit modified to accommodate them. >> >> The deck had operated flawlessly up until summer 2020 when I hid it away while on vacation. I know how much they hate to be moved or jarred so the first thing I tried to do is re-seat the cards to no avail. >> >> -Alan >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist >> Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alan505 at gmail.com Fri Oct 7 15:33:35 2022 From: alan505 at gmail.com (alan505) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2022 08:33:35 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] 1000zxl memory Message-ID: I totally agree with Mark's point in that these are old (and finicky) machines and there absolutely WILL be problems no matter what. Trust me, as an owner of other finicky, esoteric things my expectations are realistic. I have been nothing but extremely satisfied with the knowledge, workmanship, and service that Willy provides. So when I power it on the only the following are lit: - 70 eq light - Counter - meter The display is not responsive to the following switches: - EQ switch (70 remains) - Noise reduction (nothing displays when toggled) The meter display is responsive to the following switches: - Monitor switch - Test tone - meter mode I performed a calibration on a noisy Type 1 and then recorded using 120eq and Dolby C. If I power it off and back on the deck will revert back to 70eq with no noise reduction. Ok, so something strange (maybe to me) occurred. I pressed the Manual Set EQ/NR button which has never lit from a power on and it lit up and all the L R displays lit up for Bias, Level, EQ, the Equalizer and NR settings lit up reflecting the current switch positions. I powered the unit off and on again and the Manual Set button lit up as did everything else. Very strange, but I'm wondering if this is something that must be performed after a battery change. I'm going to check this after work, after the deck has been off for several hours. Hopefully it's user error on my part! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From f.riedlinger at bluewin.ch Fri Oct 7 16:57:39 2022 From: f.riedlinger at bluewin.ch (Franz Riedlinger) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2022 16:57:39 +0200 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon eats tapes playing forward Message-ID: <98055397-C92F-46E2-A884-BB156E705E4B@bluewin.ch> Dear Nakamichi fan community I am the owner of a Dragon and live in Switzerland. Unfortunately, the device has recently started to have difficulties when playing forward. It plays normally for about 40 seconds. Then volume fluctuations occur until it stops. The other functions, play backwards, rewind and fast forward work fine. I have recorded the malfunction in a video. This can be downloaded by means of the following QR code until 14.10.2022 from my cloud. Surely someone of you will have already had the same problem and can give me detailed information about the causes and the repair work. I would be very grateful for any hints as soon as possible. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7831.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1807146 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bg3009 at yahoo.com Sat Oct 8 01:29:57 2022 From: bg3009 at yahoo.com (Bala Ganesh Chandra) Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2022 09:29:57 +1000 Subject: [naktalk] 1000zxl memory In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Alan, Elementary suggestion but are the battery terminals clean and is the unit being supplied with backup power when the unit is off? Kind Regards, Bala Ganesh > On 7 Oct 2022, at 11:38 pm, alan505 via Naktalk wrote: > > ?I totally agree with Mark's point in that these are old (and finicky) machines and there absolutely WILL be problems no matter what. Trust me, as an owner of other finicky, esoteric things my expectations are realistic. I have been nothing but extremely satisfied with the knowledge, workmanship, and service that Willy provides. > > So when I power it on the only the following are lit: > > - 70 eq light > - Counter > - meter > > The display is not responsive to the following switches: > > - EQ switch (70 remains) > - Noise reduction (nothing displays when toggled) > > The meter display is responsive to the following switches: > > - Monitor switch > - Test tone > - meter mode > > I performed a calibration on a noisy Type 1 and then recorded using 120eq and Dolby C. If I power it off and back on the deck will revert back to 70eq with no noise reduction. > > Ok, so something strange (maybe to me) occurred. I pressed the Manual Set EQ/NR button which has never lit from a power on and it lit up and all the L R displays lit up for Bias, Level, EQ, the Equalizer and NR settings lit up reflecting the current switch positions. I powered the unit off and on again and the Manual Set button lit up as did everything else. Very strange, but I'm wondering if this is something that must be performed after a battery change. I'm going to check this after work, after the deck has been off for several hours. Hopefully it's user error on my part! > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= From ricktrumpetman at aol.com Sat Oct 8 11:49:08 2022 From: ricktrumpetman at aol.com (ricktrumpetman) Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2022 05:49:08 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] Dragon eats tapes playing forward In-Reply-To: <98055397-C92F-46E2-A884-BB156E705E4B@bluewin.ch> Message-ID: <634864511.241425.1665222553138@aol.com> Without more information, it sounds like the forward pinch roller sticking (frozen grease) or not making full contact pressure with the forward capstan.??Best to all,DwightSent via the Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Franz Riedlinger via Naktalk Date: 10/7/22 6:38 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Naktalk at lists.naks.com Cc: Franz Riedlinger Subject: [naktalk] Dragon eats tapes playing forward Dear Nakamichi fan communityI am the owner of a Dragon and live in Switzerland. Unfortunately, the device has recently started to have difficulties when playing forward. It plays normally for about 40 seconds. Then volume fluctuations occur until it stops. The other functions, play backwards, rewind and fast forward work fine. I have recorded the malfunction in a video. This can be downloaded by means of the following QR code until 14.10.2022 from my cloud.Surely someone of you will have already had the same problem and can give me detailed information about the causes and the repair work.I would be very grateful for any hints as soon as possible. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcuser at comcast.net Sat Oct 8 20:37:15 2022 From: mcuser at comcast.net (David Austin) Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2022 11:37:15 -0700 Subject: [naktalk] MR -1 help Message-ID: <50354F45-B7DD-44C6-A916-17D67EF0A1AD@comcast.net> Hi, I have a MR-1 that was given to me in a box labeled MR-1 disassembled. And it indeed was disassembled. It is missing all screws that would be removed to gain access to the heads and cassette holder assembly. There is also no bottom cover. I think the previous owner was maybe trying to free a cassette in the play position caused by a stuck control motor. I have the control motor working again and the unit will play, ff and rewind as it should and I think will work in all respects except it it missing two very important parts. The supply side tape guide and pinch roller are missing a lock nut that would allow adjustment of the guide height. The manual surprisingly does not list this as a nut but as a 2mm E clip. I got some 2mm nuts from Amazon, but they seem too small or the wrong tread size. Is there another version of the manual that lists this as an adjustable nut and its correct value? So here is my question ? does anyone have or know where to source this lock nut? I can probably scrounge all the other missing screws (but not the bottom cover). One final thing I need is the take up guide that is also broken with one side of the thin metal missing. Thanks in advance for any help or advice that you can give me. best regards, David Austin From alan505 at gmail.com Mon Oct 10 02:02:02 2022 From: alan505 at gmail.com (alan505) Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2022 19:02:02 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] 1000zxl memory Message-ID: Hi Bala, The contacts in the batter tray are clean. That's one thing I keep an eye on as the original was a goner and replaced by Willy. I'll have to check to see if power is being applied when off/unplugged. (I've been two days in on some PA-7 work, but will look at the ZXL next) -Alan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From perry.nak at comcast.net Mon Oct 10 16:36:41 2022 From: perry.nak at comcast.net (Perry.nak) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2022 10:36:41 -0400 Subject: [naktalk] 1000zxl batteries Message-ID: <2FBADF0E-56B2-4A88-A73D-468D68CD192A@comcast.net> If you haven?t yet, be sure tonreplace the batteries with Lithium AA cells. They will last far longer and will never explode like alkalines will. I rebuilt the battery compartments in both my 1000zxls with new battery holders after having cleaned all the sulfate out with white vinegar then rinsed thoroughly. Works a treat now. (Sold one of them, though) Sent from my iPhone From f.riedlinger at bluewin.ch Mon Oct 24 11:43:29 2022 From: f.riedlinger at bluewin.ch (Franz Riedlinger) Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2022 11:43:29 +0200 Subject: [naktalk] Fwd: Dragon eats tapes playing forward References: <634864511.241425.1665222553138@aol.com> Message-ID: <6CB3DABA-52F4-4207-A0B1-A6FC89F98BC1@bluewin.ch> Hi Dwight Thanks for pointing this out. In the meantime, a technician has found out the exact cause. This could be a valuable hint for all owners of a Dragon tape deck who have a similar problem. It was due to the electronic control of the right capstan. Electrolytic capacitors had to be replaced on the associated board. Best regards, Franz > Anfang der weitergeleiteten Nachricht: > > Von: ricktrumpetman via Naktalk > Betreff: Aw: [naktalk] Dragon eats tapes playing forward > Datum: 8. Oktober 2022 um 11:49:08 MESZ > An: Naktalk at lists.naks.com > Kopie: ricktrumpetman > Antwort an: Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks > > Without more information, it sounds like the forward pinch roller sticking (frozen grease) or not making full contact pressure with the forward capstan. > > Best to all, > > Dwight > > > > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Franz Riedlinger via Naktalk > Date: 10/7/22 6:38 PM (GMT-05:00) > To: Naktalk at lists.naks.com > Cc: Franz Riedlinger > Subject: [naktalk] Dragon eats tapes playing forward > > Dear Nakamichi fan community > > I am the owner of a Dragon and live in Switzerland. Unfortunately, the device has recently started to have difficulties when playing forward. It plays normally for about 40 seconds. Then volume fluctuations occur until it stops. The other functions, play backwards, rewind and fast forward work fine. I have recorded the malfunction in a video. This can be downloaded by means of the following QR code until 14.10.2022 from my cloud. > Surely someone of you will have already had the same problem and can give me detailed information about the causes and the repair work. > > I would be very grateful for any hints as soon as possible. > > > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joyell.solie at sasktel.net Sun Nov 13 15:50:03 2022 From: joyell.solie at sasktel.net (Joy-Ell & Rainer) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2022 09:50:03 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] ATR chrome Traveling tape Message-ID: <1668351003.z3iofaxqyoogkg08@webmail.sasktel.net> It's back! I got an email from Ural yesterday saying that the traveling tape has been mailed back to him from Brazil. Ural is going to send it back to me but if anyone wants to continue I am happy to do that. Daniel, do you still have the Google sheet available?? ? From therabbitrancher at yahoo.com Tue Nov 15 21:40:56 2022 From: therabbitrancher at yahoo.com (therabbitrancher at yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2022 20:40:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi Belt Sources References: <2133811300.527184.1668544856310.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2133811300.527184.1668544856310@mail.yahoo.com> Since Marrs belts are no longer available, what are the sources for a reasonably suitable substitute?? What are the pros like Willy Hermanndoing now?? I was under the impression that Willy was getting his beltsfrom Marrs. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnnykojic at hotmail.com Tue Nov 15 22:16:38 2022 From: johnnykojic at hotmail.com (john kojic) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2022 21:16:38 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi Belt Sources In-Reply-To: <2133811300.527184.1668544856310@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2133811300.527184.1668544856310.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2133811300.527184.1668544856310@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: https://www.sofh.it/ the belt i got here is good SofH. The Pinch Roller. Idler Wheels & Tires. For turntables (EMT, Lenco, etc) For R-2-Rs (Akai, Sony, Uher, etc) For cassettes (Akai, Nak, Pioneer, etc) Pic: Two EMT 927 & 930 Idler Wheels www.sofh.it ________________________________ From: Naktalk on behalf of therabbitrancher--- via Naktalk Sent: 15 November 2022 20:40 To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Cc: therabbitrancher at yahoo.com Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi Belt Sources Since Marrs belts are no longer available, what are the sources for a reasonably suitable substitute? What are the pros like Willy Hermann doing now? I was under the impression that Willy was getting his belts from Marrs. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rhils at hotmail.com Tue Nov 15 22:22:41 2022 From: rhils at hotmail.com (Rick Hils) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2022 21:22:41 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi Belt Sources In-Reply-To: <2133811300.527184.1668544856310@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2133811300.527184.1668544856310.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2133811300.527184.1668544856310@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: We should find that out. ________________________________ From: Naktalk on behalf of therabbitrancher--- via Naktalk Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2022 12:40 PM To: naktalk at lists.naks.com Cc: therabbitrancher at yahoo.com Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi Belt Sources Since Marrs belts are no longer available, what are the sources for a reasonably suitable substitute? What are the pros like Willy Hermann doing now? I was under the impression that Willy was getting his belts from Marrs. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at thatsthebest.net Tue Nov 15 23:00:22 2022 From: mark at thatsthebest.net (Mark Rogers) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2022 15:00:22 -0700 Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi Belt Sources In-Reply-To: References: <2133811300.527184.1668544856310.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2133811300.527184.1668544856310@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Contact Neil at Russell Industries, they carry the PRB line of belts, high-quality neoprene. RUSSELL INDUSTRIES, INC. Neil Eiger 40 Horton Ave Lynbrook, NY 11563 (516) 536-5000 http://russellind.com/ They also have a very extensive reference for finding the correct belt for hundreds of vintage decks: http://russellind.com/client/download/PRB_Belt_XRef.pdf If you buy a lot of belts ask about distributor pricing, it's a fraction of the cost compared to buying "Belt kits" online. They also have idlers & pinch rollers. Good luck! Mark On Tue, Nov 15, 2022 at 2:38 PM Rick Hils via Naktalk < naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > We should find that out. > ------------------------------ > *From:* Naktalk on behalf of > therabbitrancher--- via Naktalk > *Sent:* Tuesday, November 15, 2022 12:40 PM > *To:* naktalk at lists.naks.com > *Cc:* therabbitrancher at yahoo.com > *Subject:* [naktalk] Nakamichi Belt Sources > > > Since Marrs belts are no longer available, what are the sources for a > reasonably suitable substitute? What are the pros like Willy Hermann doing > now? I was under the impression that Willy was getting his belts from > Marrs. > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at thatsthebest.net Tue Nov 15 23:23:19 2022 From: mark at thatsthebest.net (Mark Rogers) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2022 15:23:19 -0700 Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi Belt Sources In-Reply-To: References: <2133811300.527184.1668544856310.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2133811300.527184.1668544856310@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Sorry, looks like that link for the PRB Reference isn't working for me right now. I've attached it, hopefully you can download it. Mark On Tue, Nov 15, 2022 at 3:00 PM Mark Rogers wrote: > Contact Neil at Russell Industries, they carry the PRB line of belts, > high-quality neoprene. > > RUSSELL INDUSTRIES, INC. > Neil Eiger > 40 Horton Ave > Lynbrook, NY 11563 > (516) 536-5000 > > http://russellind.com/ > > They also have a very extensive reference for finding the correct belt for > hundreds of vintage decks: > > http://russellind.com/client/download/PRB_Belt_XRef.pdf > > If you buy a lot of belts ask about distributor pricing, it's a fraction > of the cost compared to buying "Belt kits" online. They also have idlers & > pinch rollers. > > Good luck! > Mark > > On Tue, Nov 15, 2022 at 2:38 PM Rick Hils via Naktalk < > naktalk at lists.naks.com> wrote: > >> We should find that out. >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Naktalk on behalf of >> therabbitrancher--- via Naktalk >> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 15, 2022 12:40 PM >> *To:* naktalk at lists.naks.com >> *Cc:* therabbitrancher at yahoo.com >> *Subject:* [naktalk] Nakamichi Belt Sources >> >> >> Since Marrs belts are no longer available, what are the sources for a >> reasonably suitable substitute? What are the pros like Willy Hermann doing >> now? I was under the impression that Willy was getting his belts from >> Marrs. >> >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist >> Maintain your account here: >> http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: PRB_Belt_Ref_2006.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 4360383 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mk.harris1 at virginmedia.com Wed Nov 16 09:26:35 2022 From: mk.harris1 at virginmedia.com (Mark Harris) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2022 08:26:35 +0000 Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi Belt Sources In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I?ve had good quality belts from this company in the past: https://www.dynamtechgroup.com Sent from my iPhone > On 16 Nov 2022, at 01:41, Mark Rogers via Naktalk wrote: > > ? > Sorry, looks like that link for the PRB Reference isn't working for me right now. I've attached it, hopefully you can download it. > > Mark > >> On Tue, Nov 15, 2022 at 3:00 PM Mark Rogers wrote: >> Contact Neil at Russell Industries, they carry the PRB line of belts, high-quality neoprene. >> >> RUSSELL INDUSTRIES, INC. >> Neil Eiger >> 40 Horton Ave >> Lynbrook, NY 11563 >> (516) 536-5000 >> http://russellind.com/ >> >> They also have a very extensive reference for finding the correct belt for hundreds of vintage decks: >> >> http://russellind.com/client/download/PRB_Belt_XRef.pdf >> >> If you buy a lot of belts ask about distributor pricing, it's a fraction of the cost compared to buying "Belt kits" online. They also have idlers & pinch rollers. >> >> Good luck! >> Mark >> >>> On Tue, Nov 15, 2022 at 2:38 PM Rick Hils via Naktalk wrote: >>> We should find that out. >>> From: Naktalk on behalf of therabbitrancher--- via Naktalk >>> Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2022 12:40 PM >>> To: naktalk at lists.naks.com >>> Cc: therabbitrancher at yahoo.com >>> Subject: [naktalk] Nakamichi Belt Sources >>> >>> Since Marrs belts are no longer available, what are the sources for a reasonably suitable substitute? What are the pros like Willy Hermann doing now? I was under the impression that Willy was getting his belts from Marrs. >>> >>> >>> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >>> Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com >>> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >>> Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist >>> Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk >>> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: PRB_Belt_Ref_2006.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 4360383 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joyell.solie at sasktel.net Wed Nov 16 17:36:32 2022 From: joyell.solie at sasktel.net (Joy-Ell & Rainer) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2022 11:36:32 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Fwd: ATR chrome Traveling tape Message-ID: <1668616592.jahdlnu1c8cs88s0@webmail.sasktel.net> I'm not sure if this got posted so trying again. :) Cheers, Rainer S.? (80stech) -------- Original Message -------- Subject: ATR chrome Traveling tape Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2022 09:50:03 -0500 From: "Joy-Ell & Rainer" To: Naktalk It's back! I got an email from Ural yesterday saying that the traveling tape has been mailed back to him from Brazil. Ural is going to send it back to me but if anyone wants to continue I am happy to do that. Daniel, do you still have the Google sheet available?? ? From ricktrumpetman at aol.com Wed Nov 16 19:39:10 2022 From: ricktrumpetman at aol.com (ricktrumpetman) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2022 13:39:10 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Fwd: ATR chrome Traveling tape In-Reply-To: <1668616592.jahdlnu1c8cs88s0@webmail.sasktel.net> Message-ID: <1294768411.38254.1668623956329@aol.com> I'm not familiar with it but I 'm aware of something similar on some other groups.? What is it and how does it work?Thanks!??DwightSent via the Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Joy-Ell & Rainer via Naktalk Date: 11/16/22 11:36 AM (GMT-05:00) To: Ron & Marion Heuer via Naktalk Cc: Joy-Ell & Rainer Subject: [naktalk] Fwd: ATR chrome Traveling tape I'm not sure if this got posted so trying again. :)Cheers,Rainer S.? (80stech)-------- Original Message --------Subject: ATR chrome Traveling tapeDate: Sun, 13 Nov 2022 09:50:03 -0500From: "Joy-Ell & Rainer" To: Naktalk It's back! I got an email from Ural yesterday saying that the traveling tape has been mailed back to him from Brazil. Ural is going to send it back to me but if anyone wants to continue I am happy to do that. Daniel, do you still have the Google sheet available?? ?========---------------------------------------------------------=========????????? Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com========---------------------------------------------------------=========??????????????????????? Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglistMaintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk========---------------------------------------------------------========= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Fri Dec 9 10:48:29 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks) Date: Fri, 9 Dec 2022 10:48:29 +0100 Subject: [naktalk] source for 550 belt.tires kit Message-ID: Dear Naktalkers, That's a long time I did not post... Would one of you know about a good supplier for a 550 belts/tires kit ? Thanks Bernard From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Dec 10 01:10:03 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks) Date: Fri, 9 Dec 2022 19:10:03 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Mode Motor Cleanup - any guides? Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Thu Dec 15 10:48:13 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks) Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2022 01:48:13 -0800 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Mode Motor Cleanup - any guides? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi, The original message is not visible in text form. I was able to read it in the web archive link, but I could not make out the name of the person who posted this. I had to perform the control motor repair couple of times to keep the MR-1 deck at our radio station KXSF running, but I am not a professional service person and in one case I destroyed the motor by breaking its contacts (brushes inside). However I was successful in other occasions. The control motor is CA80007A which is the same in CR-7, BX-300 and MR-1 and probably other models. Unfortunately I did not keep any notes when I did the repairs. If anyone is interested, maybe I can put together a document of how I made this fix - with no guarantees that it will actually work;) Thanks, _Fuad On 12/10/2022 3:00 AM, naktalk-request at lists.naks.com wrote: > Send Naktalk mailing list submissions to > naktalk at lists.naks.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > naktalk-request at lists.naks.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > naktalk-owner at lists.naks.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Naktalk digest..." > > > Naktalk digest mailing list > > Please be careful when replying to this digest mail. A good suggestion is to only subscribe in digest mode if you only want to want to > get the latest news but don't want to participate in discussion. Otherwise, > don't go with digest mode. > > If you decide to reply anyway, reply to the message itself, so remove the digested email from the reply message and copy the subject to the reply message... you really need to know what you are doing. > > Digest messages that are replied to without taking any of these precautions may get discarded. > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. CR-7A Mode Motor Cleanup - any guides? > (Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 9 Dec 2022 19:10:03 -0500 > From: Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks > To: Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks > Subject: [naktalk] CR-7A Mode Motor Cleanup - any guides? > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Register your Nak today! http://www.naks.com/register > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Naktalk Digest, Vol 235, Issue 2 > *************************************** From naktalk at lists.naks.com Fri Dec 16 16:05:27 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks) Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2022 10:05:27 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7 mode motor rebuild Message-ID: There are numerous guides and how tos with pictures and descriptions on the correct methods of mode motor rebuild on Tapeheads.net. The final elusive key to best repair is that the small internal tabs under the small screws for the solder tab to brush tab junction need to be soldered. The manufacturer used a conductive paste that over time has dried out and does the opposite: raises the resistance. It looks perfectly fine, but simply adding a small drop of solder between the two brass pieces transforms the reliability and long term life. The normal cleaning of the commutator and brushes is still a good idea as is a drop of oil for each end bearing. Sent from my iPhone From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sat Dec 17 21:30:22 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks) Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2022 15:30:22 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] CR-7 mode motor rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, thanks. I've found a few and for the benefit of anyone reading this in the future, here are a few that have pictures: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/replacing-motors-on-a-nakamichi-cr-7a.920945/ https://kb.dutchalps.com/bx125repair.htm https://www.tapeheads.net/threads/nakamichi-sankyo-control-motor-rebuild.55498/page-2 I don't know why my initial e-mail was stripped out, but the message was, first, are there any good guides, and second, thank you Perry for your advice here and elsewhere, I really appreciate it. --mhg On 2022-12-16 10:05 AM, Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks wrote: > There are numerous guides and how tos with pictures and descriptions on the correct methods of mode motor rebuild on Tapeheads.net. > > The final elusive key to best repair is that the small internal tabs under the small screws for the solder tab to brush tab junction need to be soldered. The manufacturer used a conductive paste that over time has dried out and does the opposite: raises the resistance. It looks perfectly fine, but simply adding a small drop of solder between the two brass pieces transforms the reliability and long term life. The normal cleaning of the commutator and brushes is still a good idea as is a drop of oil for each end bearing. > > Sent from my iPhone > From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Dec 18 16:32:31 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks) Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2022 10:32:31 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Issue with BX-1 Message-ID: My model is the BX-1. On any of the play-ff-rw functions, the deck will start and then within 2-3 seconds it will stop. My guess is that it is a belt issue. I?m a novice at repair but willing to attempt. Where do I need to go from here. Your help is appreciated with the needed belt. Thank you Barry Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Sun Dec 18 17:17:23 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks) Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2022 09:17:23 -0700 Subject: [naktalk] Issue with BX-1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Check if your counter is moving., if it's not then it will kick in the auto-stop because it thinks it's at the end of tape. It's likely the belt to the counter is bad, but it's just as likely the capstan belt needs replacement as well. Check any idlers as well, and of course the pinch roller. It is less likely to need replacement, but you'll want to clean it. Don't use alcohol, it will dry out the rubber, I use Rubber Renue from MG Chemicals. Here's what the PRB Reference gives as your belt sizes: FRX6.7 SCY6.5 Good luck! Mark On Sun, Dec 18, 2022 at 8:34 AM Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks via Naktalk wrote: > My model is the BX-1. On any of the play-ff-rw functions, the deck will > start and then within 2-3 seconds it will stop. My guess is that it is a > belt issue. I?m a novice at repair but willing to attempt. Where do I need > to go from here. > Your help is appreciated with the needed belt. > > Thank you > Barry > > Sent from my iPhone > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Dec 19 14:07:31 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks) Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2022 08:07:31 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Issue with BX-1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From naktalk at lists.naks.com Mon Dec 19 14:26:17 2022 From: naktalk at lists.naks.com (Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks) Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2022 08:26:17 -0500 Subject: [naktalk] Issue with BX-1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hey Barry, I'm not 100% certain, but it could be the opto sensors at the back of the take-up (right) reel sensor. I've had this happen recently where I had the same issue and the sensor would not recognize the movement of the tape. On the back of the reel table is a black/silver reflective disc that will be detected by the opto sensor for tape movement. If the tape stops or the sensor is inoperable, the deck will stop after a few seconds. (Of course, the more common issue is a worn idler tire that needs replacement...but I'm sure you would tell us that there is no movement at all of the rewind/ffwd modes.) Either way, it's fixable. The BX1 is a nice deck to start working on. ? I believe the counter belt is used to trigger a tape counter memory stop on this deck and not used for detection of tape movement on this deck. I could be wrong... On Mon, Dec 19, 2022, 7:26 a.m. Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks via Naktalk wrote: > Check if your counter is moving., if it's not then it will kick in the > auto-stop because it thinks it's at the end of tape. It's likely the belt > to the counter is bad, but it's just as likely the capstan belt needs > replacement as well. Check any idlers as well, and of course the > pinch roller. It is less likely to need replacement, but you'll want to > clean it. Don't use alcohol, it will dry out the rubber, I use Rubber Renue > from MG Chemicals. > Here's what the PRB Reference gives as your belt sizes: > > FRX6.7 > SCY6.5 > > Good luck! > Mark > > On Sun, Dec 18, 2022 at 8:34 AM Talk about Nakamichi Cassette Decks via > Naktalk wrote: > >> My model is the BX-1. On any of the play-ff-rw functions, the deck will >> start and then within 2-3 seconds it will stop. My guess is that it is a >> belt issue. I?m a novice at repair but willing to attempt. Where do I need >> to go from here. >> Your help is appreciated with the needed belt. >> >> Thank you >> Barry >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist >> Maintain your account here: >> http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk >> ========---------------------------------------------------------========= >> > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Also check out the wiki! http://wiki.naks.com > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > Naktalk at lists.naks.com mailinglist > Maintain your account here: http://lists.naks.com/mailman/listinfo/naktalk > ========---------------------------------------------------------========= > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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